LSX 454 freshen up
08-22-2020, 07:04 AM
#581
I pulled the engine harness and went over it, was blackened , no melted wires,02 plug was toast so put new one on, new crank position sensor, new o2s, put it back together and Crank no start.
Its one thing i have no clue about, electrical...
Anyway checked crank position wires for resistance and that was good, pulled plug leads one by one both banks and checked spark, all good
Pulled fuel rails and have fuel and pressure....
Cranked it for a while and pulled spark plugs, no fuel... It cranks, it sparks, but no fuel...
Turned scanner on and map only showing 10kpa, oil temp shows minus 40, when i crank it rpm signal shows 120 odd rpm, injector pulse 1.4ms......
I havnt got test light so havnt tested injectors but know im not getting fuel... changed relays around, pulled fuses and checked......ground wires are all grounded.....
I dont know enough about electrical side to check other things ....
Needing some easy to understand testing procedures to go further....
Any help would be appreciated....
I think im gunna buy a tech2.....
Its one thing i have no clue about, electrical...
Anyway checked crank position wires for resistance and that was good, pulled plug leads one by one both banks and checked spark, all good
Pulled fuel rails and have fuel and pressure....
Cranked it for a while and pulled spark plugs, no fuel... It cranks, it sparks, but no fuel...
Turned scanner on and map only showing 10kpa, oil temp shows minus 40, when i crank it rpm signal shows 120 odd rpm, injector pulse 1.4ms......
I havnt got test light so havnt tested injectors but know im not getting fuel... changed relays around, pulled fuses and checked......ground wires are all grounded.....
I dont know enough about electrical side to check other things ....
Needing some easy to understand testing procedures to go further....
Any help would be appreciated....
I think im gunna buy a tech2.....
I'm sure you will get it sorted in no time.
If you can build the engine, I reckon you can figure this out too.
I'm glad it's no major damage.
08-22-2020, 08:37 PM
#582
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
No suggestions yet on a fix so ill do it the easy way and buy a new engine harness
The following users liked this post:
AINT SKEERED (08-23-2020)
The following 2 users liked this post by Mickyinks:
AINT SKEERED (08-24-2020), lazerlemonta (08-24-2020)
08-26-2020, 12:24 AM
#585
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
08-26-2020, 12:30 AM
#586
08-26-2020, 02:36 AM
#587
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
I'll def post a dyno shet this go round
08-26-2020, 02:58 AM
#588
i would very much like to get one done for a high performance street setup.
They set the toe on the left and right side different with more camber on one side I think
08-26-2020, 07:08 AM
#589
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
For street best to leave factory specs otherwise youll chew thru tyres
Mine goes to the guys who run the Audi Gt race cars... I have all control arms adjustable so they set it up for the track , then mark control arms , then set up for the street. Then ill drive the 600 odd ks to bathurst and when i get there i just set up to markings and im good to go. The only pain is swapping out the springs, i run 9kg all round street , track 12kg all round....
.
08-26-2020, 07:26 AM
#590
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I havnt heard about high performance street set up, wonder how it works/what it achieves.. I'd say they'd throw more castor at it because thatll make the car feel a lot sharper steering wise
For street best to leave factory specs otherwise youll chew thru tyres
Mine goes to the guys who run the Audi Gt race cars... I have all control arms adjustable so they set it up for the track , then mark control arms , then set up for the street. Then ill drive the 600 odd ks to bathurst and when i get there i just set up to markings and im good to go. The only pain is swapping out the springs, i run 9kg all round street , track 12kg all round....
.
For street best to leave factory specs otherwise youll chew thru tyres
Mine goes to the guys who run the Audi Gt race cars... I have all control arms adjustable so they set it up for the track , then mark control arms , then set up for the street. Then ill drive the 600 odd ks to bathurst and when i get there i just set up to markings and im good to go. The only pain is swapping out the springs, i run 9kg all round street , track 12kg all round....
.
Set the tires up straight and true until you're good enough that it makes a difference how the tires are set up.
08-26-2020, 07:44 AM
#591
I havnt heard about high performance street set up, wonder how it works/what it achieves.. I'd say they'd throw more castor at it because thatll make the car feel a lot sharper steering wise
For street best to leave factory specs otherwise youll chew thru tyres
Mine goes to the guys who run the Audi Gt race cars... I have all control arms adjustable so they set it up for the track , then mark control arms , then set up for the street. Then ill drive the 600 odd ks to bathurst and when i get there i just set up to markings and im good to go. The only pain is swapping out the springs, i run 9kg all round street , track 12kg all round....
.
For street best to leave factory specs otherwise youll chew thru tyres
Mine goes to the guys who run the Audi Gt race cars... I have all control arms adjustable so they set it up for the track , then mark control arms , then set up for the street. Then ill drive the 600 odd ks to bathurst and when i get there i just set up to markings and im good to go. The only pain is swapping out the springs, i run 9kg all round street , track 12kg all round....
.
The way it was done, Caster was increased to around 9.5 degrees positive.
This made the steering sharper, a little heavier and more stable.
There was significantly more negative camber on the left side with more toe in.
The right side was had about half the camber. Not sure about the toe specs.
This made the vehicle drive really well with very crisp and precise steering especially in left hand turns/bends.
The grip was sensational.
Tyre wear was also excellent with only slightly more wear on the inside edge.
Tyre life was great.
If only I could find someone else who could re set it like that, it would be great.
08-26-2020, 07:58 AM
#592
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
Maybe you need that in a VZ. The VE is a step up handling wise. For street I just set up stock , then ill fine tune with shocks
How does your car feel now , and what would you like to improve? What suspension are you running, ie sway bars , shocks, bushing ?
I raced speedway for years and one thing you learn pretty quickly is suspension set up. Youd go from wet track 1st heat to near ashpalt like dry track in the final. Youd go from 150lb springs 1st heat to 600lb in final
How does your car feel now , and what would you like to improve? What suspension are you running, ie sway bars , shocks, bushing ?
I raced speedway for years and one thing you learn pretty quickly is suspension set up. Youd go from wet track 1st heat to near ashpalt like dry track in the final. Youd go from 150lb springs 1st heat to 600lb in final
08-26-2020, 08:26 AM
#593
Maybe you need that in a VZ. The VE is a step up handling wise. For street I just set up stock , then ill fine tune with shocks
How does your car feel now , and what would you like to improve? What suspension are you running, ie sway bars , shocks, bushing ?
I raced speedway for years and one thing you learn pretty quickly is suspension set up. Youd go from wet track 1st heat to near ashpalt like dry track in the final. Youd go from 150lb springs 1st heat to 600lb in final
How does your car feel now , and what would you like to improve? What suspension are you running, ie sway bars , shocks, bushing ?
I raced speedway for years and one thing you learn pretty quickly is suspension set up. Youd go from wet track 1st heat to near ashpalt like dry track in the final. Youd go from 150lb springs 1st heat to 600lb in final
I have Bilstein B6 shock inserts in the front struts
Eibach Pro Kit springs Custom 30mm front sway bar
Custom 22mm rear sway bar. Rear adjustable.
All super pro bushes throughout front and rear.
Car handles exceptionally well as is but the precision it had with that earlier alignment is not there.
It was setup to turn better in left hand turns.
08-26-2020, 08:40 AM
#594
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
The VE does have a better chassis for sure. Although you need to compare HSV to HSV as these handle quite a bit better compared to the normal Holden versions.
I have Bilstein B6 shock inserts in the front struts
Eibach Pro Kit springs Custom 30mm front sway bar
Custom 22mm rear sway bar. Rear adjustable.
All super pro bushes throughout front and rear.
Car handles exceptionally well as is but the precision it had with that earlier alignment is not there.
It was setup to turn better in left hand turns.
I have Bilstein B6 shock inserts in the front struts
Eibach Pro Kit springs Custom 30mm front sway bar
Custom 22mm rear sway bar. Rear adjustable.
All super pro bushes throughout front and rear.
Car handles exceptionally well as is but the precision it had with that earlier alignment is not there.
It was setup to turn better in left hand turns.
See how it feels with the heavier block, turn in will be better up front but with the extra power youll be trading traction.....You may need a few extra pound in spring rate up front or less rear
08-26-2020, 09:23 AM
#595
You have all the goodies then. Only improvement would be a set of adjustable shocks. With a good set of adjustable you dont need the big sway bars
See how it feels with the heavier block, turn in will be better up front but with the extra power youll be trading traction.....You may need a few extra pound in spring rate up front or less rear
See how it feels with the heavier block, turn in will be better up front but with the extra power youll be trading traction.....You may need a few extra pound in spring rate up front or less rear
if so, how?
I thought more weight up front equals less balance and more understeer.
How would I even know if I need more spring rate?
By the way I will have around 35kg more weight up front compared to stock as my battery is in the boot and my engine mounts weigh half or less than half than my stock mounts.
I was looking at adjustable but they sacrifice too much road quality.
08-26-2020, 12:16 PM
#596
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
More weight up front means weight over front tyres , so more grip front , less rear... I
As an example ,If you have understeer you can either use less spring rate at front or more at rear. the softer front springs will allow the rear springs to push more weight to the front thus a stiffer rear spring acts the same by pushing more weight to the front. With only 35kg extra weight over the nose adjustable shocks would work perfectly by using same principle , either make the front shocks softer or the rear harder, also with adjustable coil overs you can achieve the same thing by either taking a turn out of the height at front or putting a turn into the rear.
Its about using spring weights to push either weight forward or back. Its a fine line between steer and traction because as the understeer example if you push weight to the front that means less at rear , more steer , less traction
In the speedway class i raced we ran anti clockwise so in 1st heat when its wet and slippery id start around 320lb spring right front 280lb LF a 180lb right rear and a 160lb left rear.... The front would push weight to the rear with more going cross weight to the lft rear than the right. In speedway you steer with the rear so your more worried about traction. In the final id be up to 650lb RF 600lb LF 500lb RR and 450lb LR..... I wont get into ride heights to fine tune that but same principle pushing weight either front or back and also cross ways front to rear.and i'll leave shock valving all together.
Coilovers/adjustable shocks do not give up any ride quality whatsoever, they improve it.. Im using MCA coilovers, you tell them the weight of your car and theyll valve the shock to suit(make the shock stiffer or softer for your desired ride quality) . You dont need bigger sway bars also because the shocks are valved to do the job
As an example ,If you have understeer you can either use less spring rate at front or more at rear. the softer front springs will allow the rear springs to push more weight to the front thus a stiffer rear spring acts the same by pushing more weight to the front. With only 35kg extra weight over the nose adjustable shocks would work perfectly by using same principle , either make the front shocks softer or the rear harder, also with adjustable coil overs you can achieve the same thing by either taking a turn out of the height at front or putting a turn into the rear.
Its about using spring weights to push either weight forward or back. Its a fine line between steer and traction because as the understeer example if you push weight to the front that means less at rear , more steer , less traction
In the speedway class i raced we ran anti clockwise so in 1st heat when its wet and slippery id start around 320lb spring right front 280lb LF a 180lb right rear and a 160lb left rear.... The front would push weight to the rear with more going cross weight to the lft rear than the right. In speedway you steer with the rear so your more worried about traction. In the final id be up to 650lb RF 600lb LF 500lb RR and 450lb LR..... I wont get into ride heights to fine tune that but same principle pushing weight either front or back and also cross ways front to rear.and i'll leave shock valving all together.
Coilovers/adjustable shocks do not give up any ride quality whatsoever, they improve it.. Im using MCA coilovers, you tell them the weight of your car and theyll valve the shock to suit(make the shock stiffer or softer for your desired ride quality) . You dont need bigger sway bars also because the shocks are valved to do the job
08-26-2020, 12:30 PM
#597
More weight up front means weight over front tyres , so more grip front , less rear... I
As an example ,If you have understeer you can either use less spring rate at front or more at rear. the softer front springs will allow the rear springs to push more weight to the front thus a stiffer rear spring acts the same by pushing more weight to the front. With only 35kg extra weight over the nose adjustable shocks would work perfectly by using same principle , either make the front shocks softer or the rear harder, also with adjustable coil overs you can achieve the same thing by either taking a turn out of the height at front or putting a turn into the rear.
Its about using spring weights to push either weight forward or back. Its a fine line between steer and traction because as the understeer example if you push weight to the front that means less at rear , more steer , less traction
In the speedway class i raced we ran anti clockwise so in 1st heat when its wet and slippery id start around 320lb spring right front 280lb LF a 180lb right rear and a 160lb left rear.... The front would push weight to the rear with more going cross weight to the lft rear than the right. In speedway you steer with the rear so your more worried about traction. In the final id be up to 650lb RF 600lb LF 500lb RR and 450lb LR..... I wont get into ride heights to fine tune that but same principle pushing weight either front or back and also cross ways front to rear.and i'll leave shock valving all together.
Coilovers/adjustable shocks do not give up any ride quality whatsoever, they improve it.. Im using MCA coilovers, you tell them the weight of your car and theyll valve the shock to suit(make the shock stiffer or softer for your desired ride quality) . You dont need bigger sway bars also because the shocks are valved to do the job
As an example ,If you have understeer you can either use less spring rate at front or more at rear. the softer front springs will allow the rear springs to push more weight to the front thus a stiffer rear spring acts the same by pushing more weight to the front. With only 35kg extra weight over the nose adjustable shocks would work perfectly by using same principle , either make the front shocks softer or the rear harder, also with adjustable coil overs you can achieve the same thing by either taking a turn out of the height at front or putting a turn into the rear.
Its about using spring weights to push either weight forward or back. Its a fine line between steer and traction because as the understeer example if you push weight to the front that means less at rear , more steer , less traction
In the speedway class i raced we ran anti clockwise so in 1st heat when its wet and slippery id start around 320lb spring right front 280lb LF a 180lb right rear and a 160lb left rear.... The front would push weight to the rear with more going cross weight to the lft rear than the right. In speedway you steer with the rear so your more worried about traction. In the final id be up to 650lb RF 600lb LF 500lb RR and 450lb LR..... I wont get into ride heights to fine tune that but same principle pushing weight either front or back and also cross ways front to rear.and i'll leave shock valving all together.
Coilovers/adjustable shocks do not give up any ride quality whatsoever, they improve it.. Im using MCA coilovers, you tell them the weight of your car and theyll valve the shock to suit(make the shock stiffer or softer for your desired ride quality) . You dont need bigger sway bars also because the shocks are valved to do the job
It cuts the body roll to almost zero and it makes the car feel so planted and secure.
But at the same time, you need to be careful because this chassis is extremely rear happy and won't take much to upset the cornering with the right foot.
I was looking at some nice Bilstein Coil overs but they are expensive and am concerned I will lose the nice ride I have.
The B6 shock is a firm but very compliant and controlled ride.
I was also looking at putting a spring at the front with a higher rate but what is there to choose from these days?
All I see is kings and other brands I am not keen on.
I just checked out the MCA suspension setups and they look quite good and well priced too.
Which version do you have?
I like the look of the Pro Sport.
08-26-2020, 01:03 PM
#598
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
The bigger sway bars are awesome.
It cuts the body roll to almost zero and it makes the car feel so planted and secure.
But at the same time, you need to be careful because this chassis is extremely rear happy and won't take much to upset the cornering with the right foot.
I was looking at some nice Bilstein Coil overs but they are expensive and am concerned I will lose the nice ride I have.
The B6 shock is a firm but very compliant and controlled ride.
I was also looking at putting a spring at the front with a higher rate but what is there to choose from these days?
All I see is kings and other brands I am not keen on.
I just checked out the MCA suspension setups and they look quite good and well priced too.
Which version do you have?
I like the look of the Pro Sport.
It cuts the body roll to almost zero and it makes the car feel so planted and secure.
But at the same time, you need to be careful because this chassis is extremely rear happy and won't take much to upset the cornering with the right foot.
I was looking at some nice Bilstein Coil overs but they are expensive and am concerned I will lose the nice ride I have.
The B6 shock is a firm but very compliant and controlled ride.
I was also looking at putting a spring at the front with a higher rate but what is there to choose from these days?
All I see is kings and other brands I am not keen on.
I just checked out the MCA suspension setups and they look quite good and well priced too.
Which version do you have?
I like the look of the Pro Sport.
Using your shocks to control body roll is far superior to using sway bars. Sway bars are no where near as compliant, you will have far less grip
Eibach springs are good, kings arnt to bad either with the rite shock.
Ive used bilstein and koni , the MCA reds i have now are there equal , no probs at all.
See how your car handles first, then see if you need springs
08-31-2020, 02:21 AM
#599
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
So i'd been chasing my tail a bit after i put the new engine harness in. All sorts of random codes were getting thrown with the last straw being a high voltage code for the maf sensor and i dont have one.
I started at the battery and replaced fuel pump wiring, pulled every connector all the way thru to the ecm, cleaned and checked all were good. took new spark plug leads off and put old ones back on, gapped the plugs, pulled every fuse and relay, did a write entire with hp tuners
Now i can officially say this engine is insane, its running great and by my *** cheeks i'd say it'd rip a new a hole in the last engine...
I started at the battery and replaced fuel pump wiring, pulled every connector all the way thru to the ecm, cleaned and checked all were good. took new spark plug leads off and put old ones back on, gapped the plugs, pulled every fuse and relay, did a write entire with hp tuners
Now i can officially say this engine is insane, its running great and by my *** cheeks i'd say it'd rip a new a hole in the last engine...
The following 2 users liked this post by Mickyinks:
AINT SKEERED (08-31-2020), Double06 (08-31-2020)
08-31-2020, 03:11 AM
#600
So i'd been chasing my tail a bit after i put the new engine harness in. All sorts of random codes were getting thrown with the last straw being a high voltage code for the maf sensor and i dont have one.
I started at the battery and replaced fuel pump wiring, pulled every connector all the way thru to the ecm, cleaned and checked all were good. took new spark plug leads off and put old ones back on, gapped the plugs, pulled every fuse and relay, did a write entire with hp tuners
Now i can officially say this engine is insane, its running great and by my *** cheeks i'd say it'd rip a new a hole in the last engine...
I started at the battery and replaced fuel pump wiring, pulled every connector all the way thru to the ecm, cleaned and checked all were good. took new spark plug leads off and put old ones back on, gapped the plugs, pulled every fuse and relay, did a write entire with hp tuners
Now i can officially say this engine is insane, its running great and by my *** cheeks i'd say it'd rip a new a hole in the last engine...
When do you think you will get it on the dyno?