Itll be the O2s Bortous, should have done them first after thinking bout the symtoms

 

Itll be the O2s Bortous, should have done them first after thinking bout the symtoms

 

Ok , i put new front o2 sensors in , new plugs, checked spark, still running rough up until 300rpm.
Its in closed loop , reading 02s which are different .. Bank 1 shows .700mv bank 2 is 200mv at idle
Stft bank 1 -22% bank 2 50%
Tightened intake manifold, checked for exhaust leaks
Dont know whats goin on

 

So the afr s different from bank to bank? For a piece of mind, switch the O2s and see if problem or values follow them.

 

yep.... pws bank 1 /3.3 bank 2 7.4
stft -22% +50%

 

Id start switchn parts from bank to bank one at a time and see if the problem follows. Could also do a smoke test n see if you have any vacuum leaks. Do all the cheap inexpensive stuff first before you start buying parts

 

im thinking its electrical, over 3000rpm there isnt a problem.... Ill go over everything again . The engine harness is dodgy , the car goes to sydney to have it all sorted in may

 

Do any datalogging? Get a better pic of whats going on n when? Could be anything until you start painting a picture with symptoms and data.

 

i do have data logs, i pulled positive battery cable for 15mins to reset ecm and both banks are now in sync
the o2s are staying high 800-900 mv, stft gets up to -21% but with bit off throttle comes down, injectors pw are the same now.... somethings taking spark out at idle, sits on 5 degrees a lot which isnt rite.... lookin at fuel pressure reg it looks steady at 58psi, but i dont know if the fuel pumps are compatible with e85...
im just going to take to my tuner, to busy building my house

 

It is idling rich, so it is idling fast. It cannot cut enough air to idle down do it is cutting spark. If you are speed density, multiply your 0-1200 columns by 0.8. If maf, multiply your idle cells by 0.8 on the maf curve.

 

I had a few hours to go over everything again. I had no codes until today , would hv saved so much time if the code came up when it started playin up.. P0118 coolant temp sensor... bought a new one and now all good except stft showing rich...
a little bit of street tuning over the next few days and it’ll be 100%
Darth I’m speed density so I multiplied by .9 and upped spark by 4 degrees, then dropped idle adaptive a few degrees 300rpm and up... smoothed it up a lot , I’ll play with it a little more and see if can improve further

 

glad to hear it! Often with larger cams, it will feel like you're idling lean, but the VE is so poor down low, you almost have to get it lean by the sensors to get the mixture right due to the overlap. You can look at injector timing too - delay the end of injection until after the exhaust valve is closed at .006 (after the motor has warmed up). Makes a difference. Cold, it's better to leave the end of injection alone, because the heat of the intake valve helps warm the fuel for better cold running. As the motor warms up, you can delay injection timing, because the heat of the motor itself will help keep the fuel vaporized. Makes it easier to control the mixture.

 

Is your new coolant sensor reading different values? If it reads colder you will be rich. I just bought replacement ones and it was off by about 20 degrees. Different part number on accident but no one talks about the difference.

Compare your temp to your IAT sensor when everything is cold.

 

Did some more logging this morning , found the map reading between 60 and 100kpa.. replaced map then put old tune in it, now it’s 100%
found out the map, ist, coolant and oil pressure sensors run off the same 5v so if one goes it can wreck the others
water temps are all in line Spanks

 

Is it hard to replace valve springs???
dont know where the top bit of spring is, but fair chance it’s in the engine lol
neef a pair of rockers also,
i had heard a small tap for a few days, just thought was time to do lash

 

It is fairly easy to do it with the head on you just need the right valve tools - I use the LSM stuff. That being said you will need to do a compression test as you may have dinged the valve into the piston due to loss of valve control (loss of compression will show a bent valve). The good thing is if you got like Weisco / aftermarket pistons the valve relief is enormous and deep I have a 246/258 660 cam and I think I have .100 more clearance than the .080 and .100 you want to have in first place. I would also look at the retainers they look a little small for holding in that big spring - maybe its normal. I had something similar found it by the laser heat gun at idle (odd side bank number 7) 450, 450, 435, 150 oops.

 

You just need an air compressor hose that winds into spark plug hole, see link below. Then you hook up air compressor working at 100psi or more and it keeps the valves up in the head. Watch out when you hook up the air to that cylinder as it'll turn the engine over to push that piston down in the cylinder, so don't have anything around the front of engine when you do it. Then get a valve spring compressor tool and compress spring, remove collets and retainer etc. Fairly easy. Also get a telescopic magnet to grab the retainer collets when you compress the spring, so one doesn't accidentally go flying down a pushrod hole.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CYLINDER...frcectupt=true

 

Ihollowed out a spark plug and made a fitting for air hose

 

Looks like a retainer might be in order also? You’ll know when you get it apart I guess. Tony can help you here Mick. He’s the guy to call...

 

ive bought a pac 1209x spring kit and I’ll install the damaged spring , bring the car home, then I’ll have to find out how to measure Installed height and spring pressures, buy the tools for that, then replace them all.
I’ve been busy building new house and forgot I was going to replace springs after 18 months. I’ve done nearly 30,000miles since full rebuild so I’ve gotten good spring life for solid roller