30k miles out of a solid roller setup is very impressive. You done good sir.

 

Titanium retainers are a throw away item. The more pressure the less miles. If you decide to use them again I would replace them every 20k

 

I put new valve springs and retainers on , 1st time I’ve done it and no problem at all... then on my way home dropped a lifter , must have been damaged when valve spring broke..
id say new cam and lifters and I’ll b good to go

 

Often times when a roller lifter takes a dump, it will litter up the adjacent cylinders pretty bad. Piston skirts get trashed from the debris and take the cylinder walls with them. Not trying to jinx you here Mickey, I’ve just seen it happen. Boils down to how bad the lifter came apart. Hopefully you caught yours in time.

 

I’m the dumped lifter professor, heard the birdie chirpin and pulled over straight away, $600 for a flatbed home..
Pulled it down already , lifter wheel is just pitted. I’ll buy a new pair of lifters, new cam, I’ll get the same one, a head gasket , then good to go
Dont know how many engines I’ve lost due to lifters. I know in one season I had to do eight rebuilds due to lifters turning, I think I’m up to 3rd with this car... oh well gotta pay to play

 

Sounds like weak valve springs allowed valve float that damaged lifter. With new valve springs you installed, I’d replace all lifters with new camshaft. There is just too much at stake. At very least inspect every single lifter carefully before reuse.

 

If it turned, I’d go link bar lifters. Maybe even LLSR

 

Mick is already running link bar solid roller lifters.

 

After my dad lost the needles out of a roller lifter in his 555 BBC after only 100 runs on a brand new everything build we're a bushed lifter family for life. A needle got between the piston and the cylinder wall and well...that was that. Isky EZ roll redzones are going in my 427 build. The bushed lifters lasted 1300 runs in his last big block with no signs of wearing out after being sent back to Isky for a rebuild.

SBC/LS will not be as hard on lifters as a big block with canted valves and offset pushrods, but still..it is well worth the money imo.

 

With the spring breaking and now the lifter youd have to guess that with my set up i pushed it to far before doing a spring change.
Ill do the same as last time and send my lifters to crower for a rebuild. Cost me $500 which is better than the $2000 id have to pay for new.
Ive done a lot of reading about bushed v rollers and for the street ill stick to rollers. I changed oil to driven GP1 which is a semi synthetic which most lifter manufacturers say is better for the rollers. On my last lash check i did notice i had to change lash on that same valve... Ive learnt a few things with this solid set up... Spring change once a yr

 

After having a good look at everything i cant believe how good it all looks. The bores are mint, looks like the day i got it back from machine shop, All the lifter wheels look great except the one tht collapsed, no play in them at all. Cam lobes look good except for a tiny bit of pitting on the collapsed lifter lobe. No marks,scratches,scoring, on any part except the lifter wheel and one cam lobe. Same with cam bearings, not a mark. I thought the valve with the broken springs may have kissed the piston but not a mark there also. The YT rockers are doing a good job also, valve tips are not showing any signs of wear at all, not a mark. Yt checked all rockers, the rockers themselves have a small amount of wear of the shafts but Yt said nothing to worry about. I think they were surprised how good they were after so many miles and running valve spring pressures above recommended.
I dont know if changing oil is the reason for it all looking good but this is the best ive seen after 5 rebuilds on this engine
I picked up on the broken springs straight away and also picked the lifter straight away also, so im happy i have a good ear.
Lifters are on there way to crower for rebuild, $365 + frieght. Cams 4-6 weeks. Ive been debating whether to send heads to tony for v2 update but after pulling engine down and seeing how good it all is i dont know if its worth it. The msd intake seems to drop off around the 6500rpm so not much use revving it past 7200rpm. I may get more life from springs but i think i got heaps of miles as is. At the moment ill put it back together as is then this time next year see how everything is and make up my mind whether to go v2. If alls good ill go v2 on next engine i have planned

 

Great news Mick. Are you having a duplicate camshaft built, or changing it up a little?

 

Ill be going same specs. I do have a smaller cam but like how the bigger one performs overall, plus want to get the trophy for NA dyno at summernats

 

I figured you’d leave it alone since it drives so well, but at the same time, it’s so easy to let ourselves mess things up, if you know what I mean.

 

I definitely know what you mean. Ive been building this engine for 6yrs now, changing things , trying to get it reliable with good power, its very close now. Now that i know how long i can run it before things wear i can keep on top of it.... On whether to change cam , i dont think it can be better for how i drive. There no sense trying to get more torque out of it, thinks thats obvious with the pics on what i tow at times, and have plenty of hp, so im gunna say engine done, now ill start on interior, new rims, thumpin stereo, and carbon panels n doors

 

How the yella terra works on valve stem tips

 

Glad to see these are holding up. I've heard horror stories about aluminum rocker arms on solid setups but Mr. Mamo himself told me that I shouldn't have an issue with running his YT's on a solid cam and lifter. I wish I'd have listened to him and purchased a set as I'm sure they're much lighter than the T&D's that I purchased for the BR7's.

 

What valve springs are you running?

 

It's LME's .660 lift spring kit I think and was told to go with the PAC 1208X's for a solid set up. Any suggestions?

 

What cam ?
ive been running 1209x ,