Potential N/A build 416ci
#1
Potential N/A build 416ci
As I've mentioned before I'm an staller that's had great results with what I've done. I'm no engine builder nor expert but rely on my engine builders and my sales rep at FED for most of builds. What I'm currently brainstorming is on a 416ci N/A for a customer building a some what max effort NA build. Here is what we have brained stromed.
LS3 block half filled
14.5:1CR
FED F310 LS3 heads solid roller w/ .900" springs
Jesel 1.8 Rockers
Holley High Ram w/Dual Holley throttle bodies (4 injectors per throttlebody
Diamond Dome pistons
Molnar light weight rods
Molnar 4.000 crank
Jesel Belt drive
Avil Extrnal wet sump pump (spilling is off)
Roller Cam bearings.
Have plans on spinning this near 8500rpms and running Q16
just wondering what I will run into if I run an aluminum block vs an Iron 6.0 block going this direction. What will be my weak link staying aluminum?
thanks in advance.
LS3 block half filled
14.5:1CR
FED F310 LS3 heads solid roller w/ .900" springs
Jesel 1.8 Rockers
Holley High Ram w/Dual Holley throttle bodies (4 injectors per throttlebody
Diamond Dome pistons
Molnar light weight rods
Molnar 4.000 crank
Jesel Belt drive
Avil Extrnal wet sump pump (spilling is off)
Roller Cam bearings.
Have plans on spinning this near 8500rpms and running Q16
just wondering what I will run into if I run an aluminum block vs an Iron 6.0 block going this direction. What will be my weak link staying aluminum?
thanks in advance.
#2
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I think my first concern would be sleeve thickness. But if you have the block sleeved I see no reason it will not be ok.
Looks like a fun motor. Good list of parts. Got all the other details picked out yet? Cam, springs, etc?
Looks like a fun motor. Good list of parts. Got all the other details picked out yet? Cam, springs, etc?
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62nalide (12-03-2019)
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62nalide (12-03-2019)
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G Atsma (12-03-2019)
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JMO, but at that $$$ level, I would go Dart block. The bigger 4.125+ bore alone is worth the price of admission. The ONLY reason to stay stock block is for budget constraints. A 4.00 iron block will choke those heads. A 4.065 LS3 bore is def better, with the added cubes it'll run good, but you need to be mindful of the piston speed. A 4.125+ bore and stock stroke will make way more power overall and last longer w/ that topend. Basically, as soon as you said "roller cam bearings" it went big time, so may as well buy the block you need vs trying to build it.
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62nalide (12-03-2019)
#11
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Could run a vacuum pump to compensate for windage issue, but if he's got the coin, a sleeved block will be sturdier for him
#12
Iron blocks the way to go cheap....6.0
Aluminum will move, a block fill will help reference ER Racing and the 6.2, the bore was moving around at less compression and 8800 RPM...block fill helped...
Sleeves will help the bore stay stable & keep weight down. But still a factory block.
But a iron aftermarket block is the go too. Lsx is good & have had a talk with WJ on it's good and bad points.
Dart Lsx block FTW! Roller cam bearings are good but if your not going up to a 60mm core it's a Waste of time.
Aluminum will move, a block fill will help reference ER Racing and the 6.2, the bore was moving around at less compression and 8800 RPM...block fill helped...
Sleeves will help the bore stay stable & keep weight down. But still a factory block.
But a iron aftermarket block is the go too. Lsx is good & have had a talk with WJ on it's good and bad points.
Dart Lsx block FTW! Roller cam bearings are good but if your not going up to a 60mm core it's a Waste of time.
Last edited by Smokey B; 12-03-2019 at 03:41 PM.
#13
1 thing 62 ask your rep to measure the difference between the runner and the deck for the Ls3 and Ls7 head.....thank me later...
Chris may be able to just use a smaller valve depending on how he has the valves set. On a good build 20's + hp is a general number which should climb with a more race purpose build. Same price.... And better line of sight to the back of the valve. Reason 4 higher runners.
Chris may be able to just use a smaller valve depending on how he has the valves set. On a good build 20's + hp is a general number which should climb with a more race purpose build. Same price.... And better line of sight to the back of the valve. Reason 4 higher runners.
#16
1 thing 62 ask your rep to measure the difference between the runner and the deck for the Ls3 and Ls7 head.....thank me later...
Chris may be able to just use a smaller valve depending on how he has the valves set. On a good build 20's + hp is a general number which should climb with a more race purpose build. Same price.... And better line of sight to the back of the valve. Reason 4 higher runners.
Chris may be able to just use a smaller valve depending on how he has the valves set. On a good build 20's + hp is a general number which should climb with a more race purpose build. Same price.... And better line of sight to the back of the valve. Reason 4 higher runners.
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DualQuadDave (12-04-2019)
#18
Oh yeah 900's top of my head...Lift, compression, Size. Add RPM. The 60 mm core helps stop flex if you go with the roller cam bearings. They have a Melling's *Dart block Hi RPM oil pump that keeps cavitation in check. Works with normal LS blocks also. I Called and talked with them about it. Penny 4 a Thought.
Forgot u got the external pump....
Forgot u got the external pump....
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62nalide (12-04-2019)
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