tox

Should I use break in oil such as Amsoil 30w ZDDP when starting the engine for the first time? Everything I've read in the documentation says to run synthetic 5w30... I only get to start it for the first time once!

Mavn

iTrader: (3)

Go find the cheapest BS non synthetic oil you cam find at Walmart or a truck stop for first start .

Russell James

If it's a stock LS3 with stock super tight bearings... I'd stick with 5w30 break in oil. Driven BR30 is a great choice and is a 5w30. Run the first set of heat cycles with the BR30, max two hours run time, then switch to you favorite 5w30 synthetic. In a hot climates can use 10w30 syn after break in.

If you really want to do your engine a favor.... most wear occurs on first start up. Prelube it! Can either use a pre oiling pressurized tank I got one from Jegs a while back. Or you can disable the fuel pump, and crank engine a few times until it builds oil pressure. Let starter cool, and crank it a bit more. That should circulate the oil good.

The other big thing with a fresh start is to make sure there are no air pockets in the cooling system. At that first start, leave the rad cap off, idle up about 1500 to get the water pump speed up... and a helper keeping topping off the rad.

For break in, you want to avoid the extremes. No long idling, no WOT right away. Idling is tough on a new cam as less oil is flung up on it from the crank. The worst thing you can do for a new cam is to just sit there and let it idle. Get up over 1500 rpm and the crank is flinging oil nicely up to the cam.

I would do a few heat cycles parked varying RPM, above idle some light throttle revving. Topping off cooling system. Cool off, repeat. Do another cold start and hold about 1500 rpms and make sure rad is staying full - no air pockets. Now, you've done a few short heat cycles, you know the cooling system is full... take it for some moderate load driving. Again, no long idling. But giving it some decent throttle and some engine breaking.... that moderate load up and down will help seat the rings. Avoid the extremes - Long WOT or long idle. Moderate loads are plenty to seat rings. Just don't putz around like grandma heading to church.

I wold also get a good magnetic drain plug. Filter wise I like WIX XP.

When you get close to about 2 hours on that break in oil, change it and the filter to your favorite syn 5w30 or 10w30 in a hot climate. Not sure which to use - put 4 of each and split the difference.

tox

That's great info! I can easily pull the fuse for the fuel pump.

It is the LS3 480 with the hot cam. Otherwise stock.

Having stored small engines over winter before, would spraying the cylinders with fogging oil before starting be a good thing?

Mickyinks

If your going to crank engine to get oil pressure pull spark plugs too

Russell James

I wouldn't mess with it. Things got lubed when it was assembled. Just disable fuel, give it some 10-15 second cranks a few times. Let starter cool. A few more 10-15 sec cranks watching oil pressure. The plugs and plug wires should have been already put on correctly. Maybe just a firm push to make sure they are clicked on. But I wouldn't take the wires or plugs off, just exercising connections that don't need to be disturbed.

Depends how mechanically capable you are I guess. If really good at plug wires and not cracking spark plugs... it wouldn't hurt. But I helped someone once with a crate motor that was missing like crazy. Turned out to be two cracked spark plugs and another wire that wasn't clicked on fully. And then the confession... they took the plugs out because someone on the internet told them to run NGKs. It would have ran perfect on first fire up if nobody touched it.

Those LS3 crate motors should have instructions to just disable fuel, and crank the starter to prelube. No need to pull plugs and wires.

When it first fires, it's may tap quite a bit that first minute. Don't freak out, it's just the air getting out of the lifters, it may take a few minutes to fully quite down.

tox

Oh boy! I'm technically minded and am building everything for this swap from scratch but I don't know much about engines so I'd really rather not mess it up before I even start it.

01CamaroSSTx

iTrader: (3)

I just ran conventional oil with Lucas Zinc additive for the break in. If there's something wrong what type of oil you chose to run would be insignificant.

01CamaroSSTx

iTrader: (3)

I'd just run 5w30 unless the engine was built on the loose side which in that case run a thicker oil.

KW Baraka

iTrader: (7)

A 30 weight break in oil like this ---->> https://www.summitracing.com/parts/m...8aAiCUEALw_wcB

KW

Esser

Luckily all LS3 crate engines come filled with break in oil when you buy it. No need to put any in.