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Line bore off 4 thousandths

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Old Jun 15, 2020 | 06:37 PM
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Default Line bore off 4 thousandths

I sent a LQ4 block to my machine shop and he called me this afternoon saying the line bore is off 4 thousands. He asked if I was sure they were the right Main caps because the block is bead one, but the caps are what are off he is saying. The mains were marked but I bought the motor as a bare block so I am wondering if they put different mains on it before I bought it. Would you suggest line boring and not shaving off of the main caps. Or shaving 2 thousandths or more off of the main caps, and line bore after that.
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Old Jun 15, 2020 | 07:00 PM
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What does your machinist recommend?
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Old Jun 15, 2020 | 07:15 PM
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I have another assembled lq4 he recommended tearing that one apart, or line boring, but he did say It is just 2 of the caps out. He didn’t say anything about having the caps.
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Old Jun 16, 2020 | 12:47 AM
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I assume it’s .004” too big?
Maybe it spun bearings. Or got way to hot. Or the caps came from a diff block.

These things require effort to align hone properly. The cap sides aren’t very parallel so are tough to fixture for cutting the mating surface.

I’d use the other block.
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Old Jun 17, 2020 | 01:25 PM
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I had mine aligned bored with no problem. Milled the caps and bored it.
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Old Jun 17, 2020 | 05:29 PM
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Somebody just asked this in the last couple of days, in the forum appropriate to the LQ4. Good wisdom in this post.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...y-options.html

One post in one forum for one subject is usually enough. Even if people don't tell you what you want to hear there.
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Old Jun 18, 2020 | 12:39 AM
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I think it’s a line hone is what is needed here. What did he quote you to fix it?
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Old Jun 19, 2020 | 10:00 AM
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Default Align bore.....

Originally Posted by 64post
I think it’s a line hone is what is needed here. What did he quote you to fix it?
As a tool and diemaker of over 40 years, if it was mine, I'd go for an align BORE, NOT an align hone. Reason being.that if the block's OK, the machinist should be able to skin a few thousandths off the caps, bolt them in, and re-bore them to match the block. An align hone, or most any hone, tends to follow the bore more than a boring bar would. The boring bar will cut the new diameter to the block exactly as it should be. Just my .02. COULD be the align hone can correct for only .002" also. What matters most is who does the set-up, and the actual machining. Good luck......
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Old Jun 19, 2020 | 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by grinder11
As a tool and diemaker of over 40 years, if it was mine, I'd go for an align BORE, NOT an align hone. Reason being.that if the block's OK, the machinist should be able to skin a few thousandths off the caps, bolt them in, and re-bore them to match the block. An align hone, or most any hone, tends to follow the bore more than a boring bar would. The boring bar will cut the new diameter to the block exactly as it should be. Just my .02. COULD be the align hone can correct for only .002" also. What matters most is who does the set-up, and the actual machining. Good luck......
I’m going to disagree here with you. Line boring is a totally different process, is time consuming and expensive, it’s usually done when main caps are changed and there is a lot of metal to remove. .004” can easily be fixed with a line hone process. Not many machine shops can line bore, almost all can line hone.
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Old Jun 20, 2020 | 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by grinder11
As a tool and diemaker of over 40 years, if it was mine, I'd go for an align BORE, NOT an align hone. Reason being.that if the block's OK, the machinist should be able to skin a few thousandths off the caps, bolt them in, and re-bore them to match the block. An align hone, or most any hone, tends to follow the bore more than a boring bar would. The boring bar will cut the new diameter to the block exactly as it should be. Just my .02. COULD be the align hone can correct for only .002" also. What matters most is who does the set-up, and the actual machining. Good luck......
I agree with 64post. Boring the mains is only done under extreme conditions such as new caps and/or you are totally machining a new block. On top of that, it is a bit of a nightmare due to the different metal types between the block and the caps. Using the correct style hone would be easy and within the means of most competent engine machine shops.
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Old Jun 24, 2020 | 01:42 PM
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Default 40+ years means something......

Originally Posted by 64post
I’m going to disagree here with you. Line boring is a totally different process, is time consuming and expensive, it’s usually done when main caps are changed and there is a lot of metal to remove. .004” can easily be fixed with a line hone process. Not many machine shops can line bore, almost all can line hone.
You can disagree if you choose, of course. However, 40 years in the trade means something. Someone with knowledge, and adequate machinery, using a boring bar, it will be DEAD NUTS. Sure, an align hone will probably be OK. If its mine, and I had access again to the DeVlieg Boring mill, I'd do my own block, and trust me, I've held aircraft tolerances, automotive tolerances, like. 0005", are not at all difficult. BTW, the proper terminology in the skilled trades is Align Bore, not line anything. Maybe some parts of the country do use different terminology. In Michigan, they generally don't. Yes, nitpicking, but nonetheless, that's the way we learned it in apprentice school classes. Guess it's similar to someone saying "A frame", when it's actually an upper or lower control arm. Not trying to be ****, that's the terms we learned. Every block made is align bored when new. Sure they may hone the last .002 or .003 out, but the exact position of the diameter is located by boring first. Your cylinders are bored first, then finish honed, because the location is established with the boring tool. Align honing is probably plenty good enough. I just prefer boring, then honing........
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