Need4Camaro

iTrader: (1)

BTR Stage 2 Cam

I was about to buy oil before it hit me that I wasn’t sure what to put in there.

I was thinking of trying 0w40 but unsure.

which brand? I heard Valvoline is better than Mobil 1. What about Castrol synthetic?

G Atsma

What were you using before? A different cam is not going to change lubrication requirements.
If it was a good quality oil, keep using it.
If it ain't broke, don't fixit.

RedXray

The Mobile 1 Euro 0W-40 has the most zinc for an off the shelf (or used to) non racing oil. I've read it's more like a high 30's viscosity just below 40. Walmart sells it in 5 quart jugs it's good oil I've run a lot of it. That said oils have a lot of brand loyalty and many a forum pissing matches have started on this topic. "hey man you don't need zinc with a roller cam it'll clog up your cats"

I think the label has been changed recently since I snapped this pic..



It's the "FS 0W-40" on the chart

Need4Camaro

iTrader: (1)

its a brand new motor. Never been run without the cam. The old motor was a 210k mile LS1 and was using 5w30 winter / 10w30 summer Valvoline Synthetic High Mileages.

just wondering what does zinc do for oil / engines?

showdog75

iTrader: (8)

If you want the best get yourself some Schaefer's.

RedXray

Zinc (ZDDP) is a boundary film lubricant added to the oils anti wear additive package. Zinc reduces metal to metal contact and also minimizes lubrication breakdown. Zinc is VERY important during break in for flat tappet camshafts and continued film lubrication after break in. Today's roller camshafts don't need as much zinc like the older flat tappet engines.

That said, IMO... zinc is still a great anti wear additive especially for modern roller engines with high valve spring pressures. It's drawback's are clogged catalytic converters when used in high concentration over time. It's a heavy metal that has environmental concerns if not disposed of properly. The EPA has reduced the amount of zinc through the years so unless you are adding your own zinc concentration to the oil your cats are safe.

My cats are safe... because I set them free with a sawzall

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

I used Driven to break mine in. After that, Edge Titanium all the way. Multiple vehicles with sewing machine noise from M1, switched to Edge, noises quited down dramatically.

FWIW - the viscosity you use is determined by main and rod bearing clearances, not anything on the top end. If you set your mains and to factory specs, then 5-30 is the best starting point.

bortous

M1 is ****.
plain and simple.
ULX and Penrite are some of the best oils you can get.
I use penrite.

NAVYBLUE210

Brand New Engine...
Break-In Oil l for Piston Ring/Cylinder Wall Seal.
After that a quality synthetic 5W-30, unless sustained high rpm W/ high ambient temps.
(Ie 20-30 minute HPDE @ 90*+)
I use AMSOIL

RB04Av

These "what oil" threads always amuse me...

Brings out the "religious" types of attitudes. Every Internet forum, every kind of car, every single time, without fail. Like night following day. Hilarious. Sometimes I wonder if there are other people like me who just like to poke a stick into the hornet's nest and stir it up and stand back and watch what happens.

That said, my preference is for new, fresh, clean, of the OEM's recommended viscosity or very close to it, preferably synthetic; but really, new clean fresh dino skweeezins is better than old crusty filthy synth.

gnx7

iTrader: (28)

Driven BR30 to break it in..... VR1 40W non synthetic for the first 2K miles.... then switch to a quality synthetic. Summit has VR1 for a good price as well as BR30. I only run WIX filters.

DualQuadDave

iTrader: (6)

I am a Mobil 1 fan, hundreds of thousands of miles on that oil. I use the 15-50w mostly now. The Brad Penn and VR1 are excellent also.

Need4Camaro

iTrader: (1)

My first oil change on the new motor has turned into a tragedy. The shop who installed everything must have used an air gun on the drain nut. I couldn't get it to budge with all my weight on it.. ..and I rounded off the nut. Now I can't get anything on there at all. I have an air compressor but no air tools. not sure what to do now.

speedfreak440

iTrader: (9)

Vice Grips?

01CamaroSSTx

iTrader: (3)

Next time use a boxed in wrench and remember that its right to tighten and left to loosen. As for a break in oil a conventional 5w30 with Lucas ZDDP additive works and after a couple of oil changes a full synthetic. I personally will spare no expense on my oil and run Redline 5w30 but have also heard good things about Amsoil full synthetic. No catalyst here but I do have a set and a sawzall.

Need4Camaro

iTrader: (1)

I ended up getting it off. It turned out it wasn’t the nut that rounded off but my socket. Replaced the socket and off she came.

bortous

The premium penrite oil I use which is for the street, already has 1800ppm of zinc.
I don't have brand loyalty either.
i was always a Mobil 1 fan years ago but that changed due to a noisy engine.
When I put in penrite which was the same viscosity, the engine was very quiet and just ran smoother.
The oil also lasted longer before needing a change.
Mobil 1 was the standard years ago but not anymore.

Brands such as driven, Joe Gibbs, penrite and ulx are most likely the best oils money can buy.

Launch

SAPPER

iTrader: (10)

Just get Amsoil. You can order online or your local Advance Auto Parts may sell it if they are signed up to do so. Just youtube amsoil tests by Project farm. He tests them all. Guess who wins.

Or PM me for more info.

showdog75

iTrader: (8)

Mobil 1 back before they sued and lost to Castrol over the synthetic debate used true synthetic base stock but when they lost the lawsuit instead of continuing to make a true synthetic they simply did the same as Castrol and started by using a group 3 base stock. Mobil 1 today isn't what it was 20 years ago. Anyone doubt this then do yourself a favor and google it. With that said I still think it's a decent oil but I'll take Schaeffer's for my stuff. Expensive but it's the real deal.