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My very own build thread!! 434CID Mamo top end

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Old 05-15-2021, 04:34 PM
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Is it bad that I think that it would be fun to have a wire loom, and run each individual wire myself? I am sure I would get pissed at the wires over and over and call them words that would make my wife throw things at me, but it would be fun.



ok, that sounds bad. lol
Old 05-15-2021, 06:18 PM
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I did many engine harnesses over the years for myself and others. I was trained to repair wires/terminals/connectors according to GM procedures and personal experience as a seasoned GM ASE technician (I was working on 4th gen f-body cars when they were still under base GM warranty).

I doubt you need to replace all the wires. First remove looms and tape to see the condition of all circuits. Repair/remove/replace wires according to your setup. Any repaired wires must be sealed to prevent moisture getting to bare copper wires. That means heat shrink tubes, not just electrical tape. All connectors must have weatherpack seals inside for the same reason.
Make sure you have wiring diagrams for your car.
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Old 05-15-2021, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by cino
I did many engine harnesses over the years for myself and others. I was trained to repair wires/terminals/connectors according to GM procedures and personal experience as a seasoned GM ASE technician (I was working on 4th gen f-body cars when they were still under base GM warranty).

I doubt you need to replace all the wires. First remove looms and tape to see the condition of all circuits. Repair/remove/replace wires according to your setup. Any repaired wires must be sealed to prevent moisture getting to bare copper wires. That means heat shrink tubes, not just electrical tape. All connectors must have weatherpack seals inside for the same reason.
Make sure you have wiring diagrams for your car.
Great advice here.
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Old 05-16-2021, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by cino
I did many engine harnesses over the years for myself and others. I was trained to repair wires/terminals/connectors according to GM procedures and personal experience as a seasoned GM ASE technician (I was working on 4th gen f-body cars when they were still under base GM warranty).

I doubt you need to replace all the wires. First remove looms and tape to see the condition of all circuits. Repair/remove/replace wires according to your setup. Any repaired wires must be sealed to prevent moisture getting to bare copper wires. That means heat shrink tubes, not just electrical tape. All connectors must have weatherpack seals inside for the same reason.
Make sure you have wiring diagrams for your car.
so, any damaged wires can just have the damaged section replaced using the same gauge and crimp connectors with heat shrink?
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Old 05-16-2021, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by cino
I did many engine harnesses over the years for myself and others. I was trained to repair wires/terminals/connectors according to GM procedures and personal experience as a seasoned GM ASE technician (I was working on 4th gen f-body cars when they were still under base GM warranty).

I doubt you need to replace all the wires. First remove looms and tape to see the condition of all circuits. Repair/remove/replace wires according to your setup. Any repaired wires must be sealed to prevent moisture getting to bare copper wires. That means heat shrink tubes, not just electrical tape. All connectors must have weatherpack seals inside for the same reason.
Make sure you have wiring diagrams for your car.
Would there be any benefit to upgrading the power wires to higher gauge, or is just adding a 00 gauge battery ground, and block ground plenty?
Old 05-16-2021, 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by FCar2000TA
so, any damaged wires can just have the damaged section replaced using the same gauge and crimp connectors with heat shrink?
It’s up to you if you want to replace entire wire or just section. One section is fine if well repaired and sealed.
I wouldn’t do several repairs on the same wire as every joint will add up to total wire resistance.


Originally Posted by FCar2000TA
Would there be any benefit to upgrading the power wires to higher gauge, or is just adding a 00 gauge battery ground, and block ground plenty?
I wouldn’t increase wire gauge within engine harness. The original wires from that era were thick enough.
You should see how tiny wires are on newer vehicles 2015-up!
Ground upgrade is a great idea!
Old 05-16-2021, 09:35 PM
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If you upgrade anything on the power side, do the alternator charging wire.
Old 05-17-2021, 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Darth_V8r
If you upgrade anything on the power side, do the alternator charging wire.
Already did. Alternator charge, battery to fuse block, battery ground, and block ground are all 00 gauge. Battery to starter is 0 gauge. All GP 'merica wires.
Old 07-15-2021, 04:26 PM
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Figured I would update the thread. Ordered a bunch of parts from Summit this week.
Old 07-15-2021, 09:43 PM
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More details?
Old 07-16-2021, 02:16 AM
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I updated the first post. The block is at R.E.D. and about 2 weeks away from getting sleeved. Steve also has some billet main caps that I am probably going to buy.
Old 07-16-2021, 02:14 PM
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Ok, so I am getting billet main caps from Billet Speedworks from Steve at R.E.D. Steve is going to have the main caps installed and the same guy is going to take care of the finish hone on the cylinders. So.... After Katech does the oil squirters, I should have a fully read-to-go block!
Old 07-16-2021, 02:20 PM
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Big shout out to Joe at Summit Racing. We have been messaging back and forth for the past few months on parts of this build, and he has been awesome to work with.
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Old 07-16-2021, 02:23 PM
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Big shout out to Steve at Race Engine Development. He as also been very easy to work with, and he has helped me make decisions on the work that needs to be done to the block.
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Old 07-16-2021, 02:29 PM
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Eric- Good of you to recognize some of the stand-up people in the performance bizz. Let it become a general trend....
Old 07-16-2021, 02:30 PM
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Just went and checked your first post for the details. Heck of a build for sure. I noticed dual fuel pumps - no switch. Does that mean you are running both pumps all the time?

Is there some form of boost involved also or is this an NA combo?

Who is doing final engine assembly and tuning?
Old 07-16-2021, 02:33 PM
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I cannot begin to explain how easy Tony Mamo is to work with. He has been crazy patient with me over these past months. From asking a ton of questions to changing the cam specs a few times, to educating me on what specs mean. I would have a really hard time believing that any other vendor would this helpful, available to their customers, and willing to help. In all of my experience in life, I have never met a business owner that replies to customer e-mails directly, much less in the middle of the night. Epic guy.
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Old 07-16-2021, 02:39 PM
  #138  
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Originally Posted by BCNUL8R
Just went and checked your first post for the details. Heck of a build for sure. I noticed dual fuel pumps - no switch. Does that mean you are running both pumps all the time?

Is there some form of boost involved also or is this an NA combo?

Who is doing final engine assembly and tuning?
I actually talked to Chris about the dual pumps, and needing the hobbs switch. He said that the majority of people order his pumps with no switch. It was a long time ago, so I do not remember the conversation, but I do remember that he made me feel comfortable with no switch on my build. Sorry I do not remember more, and I do not want to post things that I just think I remember.
Old 07-16-2021, 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by G Atsma
Eric- Good of you to recognize some of the stand-up people in the performance bizz. Let it become a general trend....
A lot of people (I am guilty as well) only voice opinions with they have been negatively affected. I think that sharing positive experiences is just as important, if not more.
Old 07-16-2021, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by BCNUL8R
Is there some form of boost involved also or is this an NA combo?
NA for now. I am having this motor built to support many options in the future.


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