My very own build thread!! 434CID Mamo top end
#121
Is it bad that I think that it would be fun to have a wire loom, and run each individual wire myself? I am sure I would get pissed at the wires over and over and call them words that would make my wife throw things at me, but it would be fun.
ok, that sounds bad. lol
ok, that sounds bad. lol
#122
I did many engine harnesses over the years for myself and others. I was trained to repair wires/terminals/connectors according to GM procedures and personal experience as a seasoned GM ASE technician (I was working on 4th gen f-body cars when they were still under base GM warranty).
I doubt you need to replace all the wires. First remove looms and tape to see the condition of all circuits. Repair/remove/replace wires according to your setup. Any repaired wires must be sealed to prevent moisture getting to bare copper wires. That means heat shrink tubes, not just electrical tape. All connectors must have weatherpack seals inside for the same reason.
Make sure you have wiring diagrams for your car.
I doubt you need to replace all the wires. First remove looms and tape to see the condition of all circuits. Repair/remove/replace wires according to your setup. Any repaired wires must be sealed to prevent moisture getting to bare copper wires. That means heat shrink tubes, not just electrical tape. All connectors must have weatherpack seals inside for the same reason.
Make sure you have wiring diagrams for your car.
The following users liked this post:
G Atsma (05-15-2021)
#123
ModSquad
iTrader: (6)
I did many engine harnesses over the years for myself and others. I was trained to repair wires/terminals/connectors according to GM procedures and personal experience as a seasoned GM ASE technician (I was working on 4th gen f-body cars when they were still under base GM warranty).
I doubt you need to replace all the wires. First remove looms and tape to see the condition of all circuits. Repair/remove/replace wires according to your setup. Any repaired wires must be sealed to prevent moisture getting to bare copper wires. That means heat shrink tubes, not just electrical tape. All connectors must have weatherpack seals inside for the same reason.
Make sure you have wiring diagrams for your car.
I doubt you need to replace all the wires. First remove looms and tape to see the condition of all circuits. Repair/remove/replace wires according to your setup. Any repaired wires must be sealed to prevent moisture getting to bare copper wires. That means heat shrink tubes, not just electrical tape. All connectors must have weatherpack seals inside for the same reason.
Make sure you have wiring diagrams for your car.
The following users liked this post:
G Atsma (05-15-2021)
#124
I did many engine harnesses over the years for myself and others. I was trained to repair wires/terminals/connectors according to GM procedures and personal experience as a seasoned GM ASE technician (I was working on 4th gen f-body cars when they were still under base GM warranty).
I doubt you need to replace all the wires. First remove looms and tape to see the condition of all circuits. Repair/remove/replace wires according to your setup. Any repaired wires must be sealed to prevent moisture getting to bare copper wires. That means heat shrink tubes, not just electrical tape. All connectors must have weatherpack seals inside for the same reason.
Make sure you have wiring diagrams for your car.
I doubt you need to replace all the wires. First remove looms and tape to see the condition of all circuits. Repair/remove/replace wires according to your setup. Any repaired wires must be sealed to prevent moisture getting to bare copper wires. That means heat shrink tubes, not just electrical tape. All connectors must have weatherpack seals inside for the same reason.
Make sure you have wiring diagrams for your car.
The following users liked this post:
G Atsma (05-16-2021)
#125
I did many engine harnesses over the years for myself and others. I was trained to repair wires/terminals/connectors according to GM procedures and personal experience as a seasoned GM ASE technician (I was working on 4th gen f-body cars when they were still under base GM warranty).
I doubt you need to replace all the wires. First remove looms and tape to see the condition of all circuits. Repair/remove/replace wires according to your setup. Any repaired wires must be sealed to prevent moisture getting to bare copper wires. That means heat shrink tubes, not just electrical tape. All connectors must have weatherpack seals inside for the same reason.
Make sure you have wiring diagrams for your car.
I doubt you need to replace all the wires. First remove looms and tape to see the condition of all circuits. Repair/remove/replace wires according to your setup. Any repaired wires must be sealed to prevent moisture getting to bare copper wires. That means heat shrink tubes, not just electrical tape. All connectors must have weatherpack seals inside for the same reason.
Make sure you have wiring diagrams for your car.
#126
I wouldn’t do several repairs on the same wire as every joint will add up to total wire resistance.
You should see how tiny wires are on newer vehicles 2015-up!
Ground upgrade is a great idea!
#127
Moderator
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: My own internal universe
Posts: 10,452
Received 1,852 Likes
on
1,152 Posts
If you upgrade anything on the power side, do the alternator charging wire.
#132
Ok, so I am getting billet main caps from Billet Speedworks from Steve at R.E.D. Steve is going to have the main caps installed and the same guy is going to take care of the finish hone on the cylinders. So.... After Katech does the oil squirters, I should have a fully read-to-go block!
The following 2 users liked this post by FCar2000TA:
Double06 (07-17-2021), Summitracing (07-26-2021)
The following users liked this post:
cino (08-24-2021)
#135
TECH Senior Member
Eric- Good of you to recognize some of the stand-up people in the performance bizz. Let it become a general trend....
#136
10 Second Club
iTrader: (2)
Just went and checked your first post for the details. Heck of a build for sure. I noticed dual fuel pumps - no switch. Does that mean you are running both pumps all the time?
Is there some form of boost involved also or is this an NA combo?
Who is doing final engine assembly and tuning?
Is there some form of boost involved also or is this an NA combo?
Who is doing final engine assembly and tuning?
#137
I cannot begin to explain how easy Tony Mamo is to work with. He has been crazy patient with me over these past months. From asking a ton of questions to changing the cam specs a few times, to educating me on what specs mean. I would have a really hard time believing that any other vendor would this helpful, available to their customers, and willing to help. In all of my experience in life, I have never met a business owner that replies to customer e-mails directly, much less in the middle of the night. Epic guy.
#138
Just went and checked your first post for the details. Heck of a build for sure. I noticed dual fuel pumps - no switch. Does that mean you are running both pumps all the time?
Is there some form of boost involved also or is this an NA combo?
Who is doing final engine assembly and tuning?
Is there some form of boost involved also or is this an NA combo?
Who is doing final engine assembly and tuning?