My very own build thread!! 434CID Mamo top end
#101
The centri cam in my little 377 is 232/248 116 with a 112 centerline. Idle walk around video when I first had the new setup together with a base/safe tune. Pretty tame really.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sP2Rf8trDLc&t=118s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sP2Rf8trDLc&t=118s
#102
I am getting the big CID motor so I can have plenty of horsepower without needing a lopey cam.
Last edited by FCar2000TA; 04-19-2021 at 05:58 PM.
#103
10 Second Club
iTrader: (2)
Just a reference of a similar cam in a much smaller cubic inch motor. Ultimately it’s about performance first and your personal goals. Between this cam in my current setup and a 242/250 114 cam in my old 408 I’ve never had a cam that I’ve considered too lopey though. Lol. I understand your goals though.
#104
Eric,
Since Tony prefers 4.155-4.185 bore for his heads, I think I will go with 434 as well.
The pistons you selected are Wiseco -2.8cc. You mentioned piston choice as semi-custom. Can you elaborate?
Since Tony prefers 4.155-4.185 bore for his heads, I think I will go with 434 as well.
The pistons you selected are Wiseco -2.8cc. You mentioned piston choice as semi-custom. Can you elaborate?
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BCNUL8R (04-26-2021)
#106
TECH Resident
Thats a baby cam , bigger cubic inches eat up cam duration , for a really tame cam i wouldnt go anything under 240 on intake for the cubes u have... In my 454 im running 255/269 solid roller, daily it everyday, tow 3-4 thousand pounds. When i want it feeling mellow i shut the varex exhaust,
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rkupon1 (04-26-2021)
#107
times.
In his build Scott (Che70velle) mentioned using Wiseco -8cc pistons in his 434. Not sure if they are custom, nothing like it is listed in Wiseco catalog.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ved-block.html
#108
ModSquad
iTrader: (6)
Please share when you get more details. I plan on having very similar setup with small cam and 91 octane at all
times.
In his build Scott (Che70velle) mentioned using Wiseco -8cc pistons in his 434. Not sure if they are custom, nothing like it is listed in Wiseco catalog.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ved-block.html
times.
In his build Scott (Che70velle) mentioned using Wiseco -8cc pistons in his 434. Not sure if they are custom, nothing like it is listed in Wiseco catalog.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ved-block.html
#109
#110
ModSquad
iTrader: (6)
No longer available with Wiseco Pissedons. They now sell with Mahle pistons, which I’ve ran in the past and are a good product. The Mahle slugs are fully coated.
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cino (04-28-2021)
#111
TECH Veteran
Go with diamond pistons. Best on the market.
Ls1 5.7 piston weight below... The Wiseco pistons weigh 447 grams. The stock piston weighs 435 grams. Dismond pistons are 405 grams.
The same laws of physics will apply to a larger piston as well. I bet in the real world the lighter piston will REV faster.
Ls1 5.7 piston weight below... The Wiseco pistons weigh 447 grams. The stock piston weighs 435 grams. Dismond pistons are 405 grams.
The same laws of physics will apply to a larger piston as well. I bet in the real world the lighter piston will REV faster.
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G Atsma (04-27-2021)
#112
Go with diamond pistons. Best on the market.
Ls1 5.7 piston weight below... The Wiseco pistons weigh 447 grams. The stock piston weighs 435 grams. Dismond pistons are 405 grams.
The same laws of physics will apply to a larger piston as well. I bet in the real world the lighter piston will REV faster.
Ls1 5.7 piston weight below... The Wiseco pistons weigh 447 grams. The stock piston weighs 435 grams. Dismond pistons are 405 grams.
The same laws of physics will apply to a larger piston as well. I bet in the real world the lighter piston will REV faster.
I never dealt with Diamond pistons, I will google-research it.
Static compression with -2.8cc pistons in this application is a little too high for pump gas at 11.9:1 with 70cc chambers.
-8 cc pistons would be perfect with slight head milling.
I curious about these semi custom Wiseco pistons that Tony suggested to Eric.
#113
What does everyone think about me replacing my wire harness along with the motor? I am this deep into the car, and it is 22 yrs old, and the car has been in the desert for its entire life.
I am thinking, might as well replace the wire harness while everything else is out.
I am thinking, might as well replace the wire harness while everything else is out.
#114
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I will tell you it crumbles bad on you. I yanked mine for the same reason. The cheapest option is to get a loom kit from jegs and rewrap it
#115
It all depends on the actual condition of your current harness and your know-how.
My harness is just as old, but only has 26k miles. I enjoy doing this and went through my harness myself.
I removed all plastic looms, removed and cancelled unused circuits like AIR pump and original primary oxygen sensors, switched secondary oxygen sensors to become primary due to wires being longer and capable to reach headers.
Inspected all the rest for stiff/overheated wires, chafing, broken connector tabs and loose terminals.
Added extra protection from heat and rubbing contact in some key areas.
If your harness is beat up, go with new.
My harness is just as old, but only has 26k miles. I enjoy doing this and went through my harness myself.
I removed all plastic looms, removed and cancelled unused circuits like AIR pump and original primary oxygen sensors, switched secondary oxygen sensors to become primary due to wires being longer and capable to reach headers.
Inspected all the rest for stiff/overheated wires, chafing, broken connector tabs and loose terminals.
Added extra protection from heat and rubbing contact in some key areas.
If your harness is beat up, go with new.
#116
TECH Senior Member
Harness deterioration is more about time and exposure than mileage.
#117
I’d argue it is more related to heat/engine hours which translates roughly to mileage.
I don’t believe harness really deteriorates when the car is parked indoors.
The heat is a big factor. I suppose in South harness probably deteriorates faster than in North.
Especially because in North we store away our summer rides cars for winter months extending harness life by a good margin.
Nothing was dry, cracked or otherwise and I could reuse all wire looms on my original low mileage 22 years old northern engine harness.
I don’t believe harness really deteriorates when the car is parked indoors.
The heat is a big factor. I suppose in South harness probably deteriorates faster than in North.
Especially because in North we store away our summer rides cars for winter months extending harness life by a good margin.
Nothing was dry, cracked or otherwise and I could reuse all wire looms on my original low mileage 22 years old northern engine harness.
Last edited by cino; 05-15-2021 at 12:20 PM.
#118
TECH Senior Member
#119
It all depends on the actual condition of your current harness and your know-how.
My harness is just as old, but only has 26k miles. I enjoy doing this and went through my harness myself.
I removed all plastic looms, removed and cancelled unused circuits like AIR pump and original primary oxygen sensors, switched secondary oxygen sensors to become primary due to wires being longer and capable to reach headers.
Inspected all the rest for stiff/overheated wires, chafing, broken connector tabs and loose terminals.
Added extra protection from heat and rubbing contact in some key areas.
If your harness is beat up, go with new.
My harness is just as old, but only has 26k miles. I enjoy doing this and went through my harness myself.
I removed all plastic looms, removed and cancelled unused circuits like AIR pump and original primary oxygen sensors, switched secondary oxygen sensors to become primary due to wires being longer and capable to reach headers.
Inspected all the rest for stiff/overheated wires, chafing, broken connector tabs and loose terminals.
Added extra protection from heat and rubbing contact in some key areas.
If your harness is beat up, go with new.