HPR 468 peaking to low.
I've got alot to say here and will try to do so in as reasonable amount of space possible but I have alot to cover so buckle in. In fact this post is over the 10,000 character allotment and it will be broken into two posts as there is nothing here I want to remove.
Hollow stem valves.....I would venture a guess that no other shop has used as many as I have in the last 20 years. Im actually fairly confident that's a factual statement.
Since 2003, 85 - 90% of the heads I have shipped have hollow stem intake valves (some even have hollow stem exhaust valves as well).....the other 15% a mix of titanium and solid stem.
The first company I dealt with on the hollow stems was REV and I purchased these valves from them steadily from 2003 till late 2017.....call it 15 years. It started out small while I was heading up the R&D Dept at AFR helping folks looking for heads that were a little more custom in nature offering more flow and power potential than the out of the box stuff I designed at AFR. My point is maybe between 2003 and 2010 I probably shipped on average only 40 sets a year. Between 2010 and 2015 things picked up and that grew to 50 - 60 sets a year. And since doing this full time in late 2014 when I launched Mamo Motorsports, 100+ sets a year comfortably.
Lets do the math on the 15 year run of REV valves....7 years at 40 sets.....5 years going on the low side at 50 sets.....then 2+ years of larger volume (100 sets annually) when I did this full time. That's 730 sets of heads since 2003 and we will use the lower 85% figure for the number of hollow stems multiplied by 8 valves per pair of heads just counting the intake valves (a much lower percentage had hollow exhaust). That means I shipped almost 5000 REV hollow stem valves over that 15 year period.....(the math came to 4964 pieces). In that large span of time I went 15 years without a single failure that I could clearly point to as being a manufacturing defect. Others that broke had clear signs of P to V issues, the infamous #7 piston grenading and taking out a bunch of parts with its break up, etc. Then in 2017 I experienced a few failures much like what Troy (Big Daddy) experienced here. A stem completely broken clean in the middle where its actually protected and supported by the valve guide. This was a very different type of failure and it become clear to me looking at the half still in perfect shape (the top portion of the stem), that this failure happened due to a bad friction weld. I don't want to get into this too heavily but cliff note version is these valves are made in two pieces....the top half of the stem and the valve head and lower stem portion. This way your not drilling from the top four plus inches giving the drill alot more travel to walk and create a thinner and thicker wall. Having to cover only half the distance starting with two pieces reduces the amount of "drill walk" which creates the hollow center portion by a large margin. Then the two pieces are "friction welded" together which is a process that is pretty much what it's name implies. The lower and upper portion of the hollow stem valve (after its gun drilled to remove the weight) are spun at very high speeds and while spinning pushed into one another with alot of machine generated force. The "friction" and the heat that is created by this process ultimately fuses and welds the two pieces together without requiring any type of filler rod to do so. Done properly, the weld is actually stronger than the parent material because its thicker there creating a "donut" of fused stainless steel that is then carefully machined on a CNC lathe to set the final finished diameter of the valve stem (Note that prior to and during the welding process the stem is left purposely larger than the final dimensions call out). You normally can not see any signs of this weld after the final machining as for all intensive purposes its one and the same metal....not even filler rod to discolor or show anything different in the area of the weld. However, in a friction weld gone bad, these valves will break cleanly at the weld and you can still see the inside showing some signs of the donut or fusing of the metal because its not machined like the outside is with the final manufacturing processes. I haven't seen Troy's valve in person so I cant say for sure that's the situation here but from the handful of pictures I have already seen it certainly looks to be the case. I'm also fairly certain that his last failure was related to other causes and I say that because my experience with the few hollows that have failed like this (at the friction weld), happened almost immediately (very little run time) much like Troy's did.
So getting back to my hollow stem purchase history....why did I move my business to Ferrea after having such a long proven track record with REV. It became obvious the REV situation was not an isolated event. I had three similar failures inside of 6 weeks and REV wouldn't accept any responsibility at all, offer any help whatsoever and ultimately stopped responding to and began ditching my phone calls. Fifteen years and six figures worth of business was apparently not worth much to these guys and that was the deciding factor that pushed me to look into working with Ferrea with the added benefit to that of working with a company that has a much better reputation in the industry any way. That said, looking at things at pure face value, it was hard to argue with the proven results and track record I had with REV hollow stems for that long period of time. Also, their valves were lighter than the competition and I had a 15 year run of zero "manufacturer induced" failures. But their handling of things when we had our first run of problems was a complete turn off not to mention a nightmare for me barely two years into running my own business. I had to track down all my customers that were running valves from that batch (luckily a fairly new delivery so maybe 20 customers) and I contacted all of them and ultimately replaced them with Ferrea valves helping them with the labor required to swap out the valves and paying for the replacement Ferrea hollow stems as well).
That was four or so years ago and I have been much busier since all four of these years have been fulltime as Mamo Motorsports. I figure based on my conservative figures I have about 3200 hollow stem Ferrea valves out in the field since switching over from REV....Troy's very unfortunate situation would be my first failure with one of their hollow stem valves that looks like it could be a manufacture's defect (I would need to see the head of the valve in person to say that with a higher level of confidence). For what its worth in 2013 I built my 2nd Gen 2 CTSV with OEM LSA heads at the time that I fitted both sides (Intake and exhaust) with hollow stem REV valves. It's a mild boosted build that makes about 700 RWHP and I have put 36,000 miles on that car since modding it with those valves installed. Point is I believe in the technology and run the same style valves in my personal vehicles and I believe they are cost effective and not prone to failure having a huge personal data base almost 20 years in the making to confidently say that's true.
CONTINUED IN NEXT POST

www.mamomotorsports.com
Tony@MamoMotorsports.com
Anything worth doing is worth doing well. Build it right the first time....its alot cheaper than building it twice!!
Anyway....Troy was upset and rightfully so but he basically told me he was "done with me" in no uncertain terms and was blaming two engine failures on me personally or at least that's how it felt to me. I don't feel either scenario was defective workmanship from myself or Mamo Motorsports. Am I or was I willing to help in this situation.....absolutely had I been given the chance, but part of that is having an understanding that this was not something I could have done anything differently to avoid. I installed parts from a premium manufacturer that I have never had an issue with. The heads were built and machined properly and this engine showed great promise in the brief time it was running. What happened clearly sucks but this is racing and your dealing with mechanical components that no matter who's name is on the box is not going to give you a guarantee it wont break. As a general rule the better the quality and company reputation the more expensive the part and the better your chance of reliability is going to be but lightning can and will always strike. And don't think Ti valves are the magic "unbreakable" lightweight valve option either....spend a little time on the C6Z06 forums.....plenty of engine carnage their to see mystery titanium intake valve failures and destroyed motors.....too many to count in fact.
So here we are.....nothing has changed on my end. Im still willing to help get these heads back in perfect working order if given the chance. Troy if you have had a change of heart and that is something your willing to consider reach out to me and we can discuss this in more detail on the phone. If we do move forward with this I would want to inspect the valve pieces myself and then I can send them to Ferrea for their evaluation.
Sorry this post was so long but there was alot to cover and I wanted to be as thorough as possible considering the gravity of the situation
Regards,
Tony

www.mamomotorsports.com
Tony@MamoMotorsports.com
Anything worth doing is worth doing well. Build it right the first time....its alot cheaper than building it twice!!
Last edited by Tony @ Mamo Motorsports; Sep 26, 2021 at 08:11 PM.
) I would hope the customer would be taken care of.....but they have to give the vendor a chance to make it right.I’d like to see the area under the locks of the rest of thevalves. Inspect them for deep scratches or nicks.
friction welding is definitely a good process it actually forged the two pieces together. I built driveshafts at Ford for a few years. Weakest area is the HAZ heat affected zone.
Last edited by jasons69chevelle; Sep 26, 2021 at 08:30 PM.
) I would hope the customer would be taken care of.....but they have to give the vendor a chance to make it right.Seriously though it's done and over with and I don't wish to keep talking about this. I will purchase another set of heads, rebuild the shortblock, install a CID/4500 setup, put this behind me and move forward. Thank you.
Last edited by BigDaddy97; Sep 27, 2021 at 12:09 AM.
Seriously though it's done and over with and I don't wish to keep talking about this. I will purchase another set of heads, rebuild the shortblock, install a CID/4500 setup, put this behind me and move forward. Thank you.
Too bad, really
Too bad, really
Last edited by BigDaddy97; Sep 27, 2021 at 02:58 AM.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
If 2 different pistons are damaged , then i'd say the intake valves hit the pistons from either: valve float, or the valve stems binded in the guides (seems unlikely), or ptv wasn't sufficient but doubt that as you said it was checked.
Just trying to help. It'd be good to know what caused it so it's not repeated.
I'm reving my junk to 8k rpm, titanium valves all 16 of them. Forgot what brand, the heads are ex 24hr daytona nascar. I think they were the xyldynes. I'm using .072 thick lash caps.
There's a chance ferrea quality has gone bad. Ebay has lots of new & used titanium nascar valves cheap. I think also i read that someone also cuts them down to whatever length you need.
You could replace all the intake valves in Tony's heads with titanium and run it. Titanium is lighter has less chance of valve float with same springs. Another reason the nascar engines use 7mm and 6mm valve stems, even less weight and also less friction.
If 2 different pistons are damaged , then i'd say the intake valves hit the pistons from either: valve float, or the valve stems binded in the guides (seems unlikely), or ptv wasn't sufficient but doubt that as you said it was checked.
Just trying to help. It'd be good to know what caused it so it's not repeated.
I'm reving my junk to 8k rpm, titanium valves all 16 of them. Forgot what brand, the heads are ex 24hr daytona nascar. I think they were the xyldynes. I'm using .072 thick lash caps.
There's a chance ferrea quality has gone bad. Ebay has lots of new & used titanium nascar valves cheap. I think also i read that someone also cuts them down to whatever length you need.
You could replace all the intake valves in Tony's heads with titanium and run it. Titanium is lighter has less chance of valve float with same springs. Another reason the nascar engines use 7mm and 6mm valve stems, even less weight and also less friction.
Anyways i hope you have better luck with the next build.
Seriously though it's done and over with and I don't wish to keep talking about this. I will purchase another set of heads, rebuild the shortblock, install a CID/4500 setup, put this behind me and move forward. Thank you.
, I'm not a fan of hallow stem valves epically with a heavy rocker system. #1 reason why I will keep preaching to avoid heavy rockers with hallow stems. Good luck on the rebuild and if you have any valve train questions I'd be happy to help. Last edited by ddnspider; Sep 27, 2021 at 10:53 AM.
The C6 Corvette Z06's come stock with titanium intake valves and the supercharged LS9 also has titanium intake valves. The material is lighter, more heat resistant and stronger which is a plus and the reason for the high price tag. The only upside to all of this is that OP can make it better, stronger and faster.
Last edited by 01CamaroSSTx; Sep 27, 2021 at 03:03 PM.
Tonys customer service is second to nobody’s on the industry, and in my opinion I believe that given a chance in this situation, this could have been rectified quickly and as painless as possible. BigDaddy has chosen to take his business elsewhere, and that’s his choice guys, so this case is settled. It is what it is. Troy (BigDaddy) has asked me to close this thread for him.















