Ls1Rx-7

iTrader: (4)

Considering scrapping the forced induction setup on my rx7 and going with a 427+ n/a setup. My car has coilovers and handles really well so I dont want to run the risk if blowing up a large investment like an ls7 or aftermarket shortblock.

Ive heard most people say negative things about running an Ls7 oem dry sump because for the same cost i could have a better setup. I honestly dont know much about dry sump setups and was hoping some of the big cube guys could shed some light on the subject thank you.

Not looking to spend a a fortune

KCS

iTrader: (20)

I think Aviad has some cost effective “hybrid” setups like the LS7, but better. They still use the stock location oil pump for pumping oil into the engine, but use an external pump to pull oil out of the pan and into the reservoir.

I think with a little bit of planning and minor machining and fabrication, you can switch it around so the stock pump pulls oil from the pan and into the reservoir while the external pump provides pressure to the engine.

jayyyw

What are you planning to use the car for? Plenty of people spinning the LS7 to 7800+ RPM these days with zero issues on the OEM dry sump system. A Katech Red pump helps. This is mostly straight line racing. Not sure how it holds up on tracks with turns.

NSFW

The GM dry sump is fine for street use and drag racing, but it doesn't have a great reputation for road course racing or HPDE stuff. Which is why I went with a Dailey dry sump on my new engine. I'll admit it cost an arm and a leg. But not having hoses between the sump and the pump does save a bit of money and a lot of hassle.

ARA1 makes a nice oil tank at a pretty good price.

Ls1Rx-7

iTrader: (4)

How much is an arm and a leg? I like the dailey setup, just wanted to see if there are more affordable options. I really appreciate you guys taking the time to reply to this thread

Che70velle

iTrader: (6)

Those start around $3300 I think? Prolly the nicest on the market. Speaking of the Dailey setup, of course.

jayyyw

G Speed sells a full dry sump kit for around ~$6000, IIRC. Can't remember the brand off the top of my head. Can't pull up their website on my work pc.

NSFW

$3350 for the 3-stage system (two scavenge pumps, one pressure pump). The 4 and 5 stage systems give more crankcase vacuum and better scavenging, but those interfere with the motor mount and I didn't want to go to a custom metal mount. That price was almost a year ago, so it might be more now.

And then about $1000 for the oil tank, a couple hundred for the breather can, and maybe $250ish in hose and fittings, and I still need to pick an oil cooler.

pdxmotorhead

Oil tanks can be had for < 300 bucks if you hit the swap meets.. Its a can with a baffle, not something to worry too much about, the hoses are where you bleed. -12 is ferocious on cost,

speedmartinc.com and other oval/dirt track suppliers are WAY cheaper than the Specialty Marque aligned houses.

Pump 1000 (3 or maybe 4 stage most LS cant move enough oil through the block to need any more. )
Pulleys and accessories
Tank 500
Pan ~5 or 600
Prob 400 in hose.
Fittings,, depends on layout
Pickup tube screens You want these on the pan suction fittings in case you toss the motor it will save the pump.
Hose.. about 15 dollars per foot for -12, You need 1 piece for tank to pump, Many systems use -10 for pickup(12 bucks a foot).
USE aircraft fitting, you wont like the price but your car wont burn down to do to fitting failure(Push fit), and don't go buying cheap Chinese fittings.
Earls, Aeroquipe, use a name brand and buy the hose form the same brand, the hoses and fitting are not 100% interchangeable, some will mix and match but not all.


If it will handle a 406 unlimited sprint at 10K+ rpms.. it will probably be fine for road racing. A sprint pulls way higher G's than a road car.
I HIGHLY recommend when you do this, its a motor out job, have a engine builder who's installed a lot of these help with the changeover on the block, not that its rocket science, but there are tricks. The elimination of the internal pump properly and proper rework around the overall galleys is a good idea.