When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have to hone every ATI I’ve ever installed. If you don’t, you’ll have to cut it off with a torch to get it back off. And if you sell the vehicle or engine, and the next guy tries to get it off and breaks 2 pullers in the process, they will hunt you down and kick you in the nuts. I use a drum sanding roll on my drill press with a fine grit cartridge…move the hub around it in circles lightly and measure often. Typically need to remove.0005-.0007 from the ID of the hub, but you’ll want to do your own measuring. Clean it afterwards, heat just the HUB in your oven at 150 for 20 minutes….wear some welding or good leather gloves. Polish the crank snout with scotchbrite and oil it up. It will press on nicely with the right install tool. After hub install, then assemble the damper to the hub.
I have to hone every ATI I’ve ever installed. If you don’t, you’ll have to cut it off with a torch to get it back off. And if you sell the vehicle or engine, and the next guy tries to get it off and breaks 2 pullers in the process, they will hunt you down and kick you in the nuts. I use a drum sanding roll on my drill press with a fine grit cartridge…move the hub around it in circles lightly and measure often. Typically need to remove.0005-.0007 from the ID of the hub, but you’ll want to do your own measuring. Clean it afterwards, heat just the HUB in your oven at 150 for 20 minutes….wear some welding or good leather gloves. Polish the crank snout with scotchbrite and oil it up. It will press on nicely with the right install tool. After hub install, then assemble the damper to the hub.
Is there a damper brand you'd recommend to avoid this?
After honing, is the damper still tight enough on the crank to stay put without being pinned?
Absolutely. The recommended interference fit per ATI is .0007-.0009. All the ATI hubs I’ve encountered for the LS platform typically start at a .0011-.0016 fit…on the tight side here. You can get the hub on the crank with it being that tight, but it takes work….it’s the removal side that is almost impossible.
Absolutely. The recommended interference fit per ATI is .0007-.0009. All the ATI hubs I’ve encountered for the LS platform typically start at a .0011-.0016 fit…on the tight side here. You can get the hub on the crank with it being that tight, but it takes work….it’s the removal side that is almost impossible.
I didn’t anticipate removing it until my builder make a a good point about about ever replacing the front timing cover seal. Have you tried the ATI specific installer/removal tool?
Is there a damper brand you'd recommend to avoid this?
Not really. It’s a simple procedure that takes under an hour to get right. The ATI damper is a quality product that works great and is rebuildable. The company is still family owned and operated in Maryland. They make a lot of transmission stuff also, which is what they are known for by the old timers.
I measure fitment on every damper I install, even stockers. I’m kinda weird though with my cleanliness and my clearances, and I simply like to know what I’m getting into. I still measure runout on installed flywheel and clutch assemblies also. Most guys don’t bother. I have a lot of tools and I enjoy using them, cleaning them, and putting them back where they belong. It’s my therapy so-to-speak I guess.
I didn’t anticipate removing it until my builder make a a good point about about ever replacing the front timing cover seal. Have you tried the ATI specific installer/removal tool?
I haven’t tried the ATI tools. I do have an LS specific damper install tool that works great. Again, installs aren’t the biggest problem. It’s the removal from an improperly installed ATI damper. I use a Posi-Loc 3 jaw puller to remove them. It’s a $200 tool, not exactly a Harbor Freight product.
I don’t think I’m reinventing the wheel here guys. The ATI dampers come with a 4 page install manual that’s very specific on how to do this. It’s simply a matter of how do you like your installs…correct or incorrect?
You never know when that damper will need to come back off…front seal, cam change, etc.
I haven’t tried the ATI tools. I do have an LS specific damper install tool that works great. Again, installs aren’t the biggest problem. It’s the removal from an improperly installed ATI damper. I use a Posi-Loc 3 jaw puller to remove them. It’s a $200 tool, not exactly a Harbor Freight product.
I don’t think I’m reinventing the wheel here guys. The ATI dampers come with a 4 page install manual that’s very specific on how to do this. It’s simply a matter of how do you like your installs…correct or incorrect?
You never know when that damper will need to come back off…front seal, cam change, etc.
Agreed. I’ve read the manual a few times now. Just wanted to see how many actually require honing. The ATI tool is ~$240 so it’s in the same realm. I set out to build a good longblock the right way, so I’m not going to stop now that I’m down to the balancer. The good news is it isn’t slowing down my progress!
I went ahead and dropped off ATI from machine shop and waiting to get a phone call back. In the meantime, progress has been steady!
Engine harness is now completely out of the truck. After that, I tackled removing the front end. Not only for ease of access but I have an entire new front clip to go on the truck that is in way nicer condition that mine currently.
Tonight I finished with removal of core support and now I’m working on minuscule items. Draining fluids is on the list now. Power steering, engine, transmission. From there, its pretty much go time on hooking up the cherry picker and removing this 5.7/60e combo!
Planning ahead here but engine bay and frame needs a good bath. I’m going to look at getting truck to car wash for a very extensive power wash. I plan to paint the firewall black also. I am leaning towards white on exterior color so I don’t want to regret leaving the firewall maroon when I had everything out of it.
As I was grunting to remove the core support I heard the UPS man drop off some goodies. Hello 6FPX!
I’m posting this here for motivation and a timeline over my head. But, I believe at this rate I will pull motor/trans within the next week or so. I’m only tinkering on it for 1-3 hrs at a time. Probably won’t be able to wrench on it again until this weekend.
I’m still chipping away at the build. Work has kicked my butt lately so my weekend time of working on the truck has been slim. BUT, I finally rolled it out of garage and deep cleaned the engine bay/frame. Cleaned up really well! (Don’t worry about the passenger side inner fender, it’s getting replaced)
Now that I have the front end cleaned up, it’s time to start ripping apart the front end suspension. I have new Mevotech Supreme upper and lower controls arms in and they will be my go-to with these QA1’s up front. New motor mounts with Poly bushings. While it is all ripped apart I will lay down some Eastwood Chassis Extreme paint to clean her up.
While I waited to find time to work on the chassis, I found someone local to CNC engrave a custom little touch up on my BTR valve covers. I found an old school set of SBC/BBC valve covers with “Heartbeat of America” and I had to replicate that. I think it turned out amazing!
That engine is a work of art!!! Its gonna have that OBS scooting along nicely when you get it in there!!!……good luck on your build, slow and steady wins every time!!!
Front end is now complete (with the exception of pitman arm that needed to be warrantied out due to shipping damage and a new steering shaft to delete rag joint). All new suspension is installed with QA1 coilovers. Need to raise the coils a good bit to get me around a 3.5” front drop. Not an issue though.
Bed removed and X frame brace removed to allow fitment for Boyd tank. Majority of frame coated also with more Eastwood product. I will wait to relocate shocks and add frame stiffeners once I get a 9” under it. I will slowly start to buy that stuff over the next month or so.
in the meantime, I managed to snag a brand new Holley Hi Ram 105 for $750 on marketplace! Awesome deal. Had a buddy grab it for me since it was 2 hours away and everyone was in line to snag it.
following up with next plans. Mock up and drill mounting holes for the Boyd tank. Drop the old gas tank and remove the fuel lines. And run front drive accessory parts to powder coat in wrinkle black to match the valve covers and AC compressor. More updates to come shortly! Longblock and transmission will be stabbed in next weekend 😎
Tomorrow is a big day. Drivetrain is getting stabbed in! this week I also managed to find another great deal. SE 1 7/8” headers already cerakoted. These are specifc to 88-98 2WD also so they should fit like a glove!
I will upload some more pictures tomorrow once this beautiful combo is sitting at home!
And just like that, engine and transmission is installed! Great day with my dad that I will remember forever! Now that we have that installed I need to get Boyd gas tank mounted and fuel system knocked out! Should be done this week and then the fun part of installing my plug and play harness!
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Slideshow: A modern Camaro transformed into a retro icon, this limited-run "Bandit" build blends nostalgia with brute force in a way few revivals manage.
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Slideshow: Cadillac didn't just crash the high-performance luxury vehicle party, it showed up loud, supercharged, and occasionally a little unhinged...
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Slideshow: A one-off sports car that looks like a vintage Italian exotic-but hides a C6 Corvette underneath-just sold for the price of a new mid-engine Corvette.
