LS2 402 short block at SDPC!
Originally Posted by 89FormulaLS1
I've got a set of LS1 heads that were hand ported and milled .050 that flow VERY VERY well, and I'll use an LS6 intake. Not sure yet on the cam - looking into that now, might even have a custom cam made up for my setup.
Got to do this one step at a time. Even being "choked" a bit, I'm betting it'll still make a good daily driver with "fun" factor built in. 
Bigger heads will be a future step, once the budget gets back on track.
Bigger heads will be a future step, once the budget gets back on track.
Originally Posted by JS
Kris how do u use the motor mount holes if your using them for the KS?
Please explain alittle better?
Please explain alittle better?
I will try to get some pics up asap!
Thanx Kris,I'm perfectly content w/no KS but if I could have them operational with just alittle modding I'd much rather run them for the sleep at night factor 
Take your time Kris,I wont be ordering an engine til I see the 7.0 blocks comming out
Take your time Kris,I wont be ordering an engine til I see the 7.0 blocks comming out
Originally Posted by GuitsBoy
Kris, how much for just the block, front cover, timming set and valley cover for those of us who wish to build it ourselves? Also, what condition does the block come in, meaning what machine work is required? Align hone the mains, final honing the bores, and the balance? Thanks for all the help. This is great news about the knock sensors.
-Tony
-Tony
Here are some prices for everyone!!!
** LS2 block $995.25 (4.000 bore)
** Valley cover $79.85
** Front cover $106.00 (comes with cam sensor, cvr gasket, and bolts)
** Cam gear $22.25
** Crank gear $20.10
** Timmng chain $28.25
** Chain damper $9.95
** Lifter guide $5.36 (need 4)
The block is basicly ready to assemble. All you realy need to do is finnal hone the cylinders, and check the deck surface just to be 100% sure that it is true. Install all the oil galley plugs, freeze plugs, & new cam bearings. We have everything you will need on the shelf!!
Originally Posted by J-Rod
Whats a 408 Iron block setup cost in comparison?
If there is anyone out there that wants a our 402 or wants a 408 we would be happy to build it with an Iron block. The 6.0 block is a little cheaper than the Ls2 block, but we have to factor in the cost to bore it to 4.030 if you want a 408ci. The cost is basicly the same!
Originally Posted by P Mack
So you put one on each side? Top or bottom?
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Thanks Kris!
This totals out to 1283.09 for the block and req'd parts. Add the cost of a rotating assembly of your choice and some bearings and youre ready to go. Depending on your access to a machine shop and your ability to do work yourself, LS2 shortblocks are getting pretty darn affordable. I still figure this is going to average out to ~ $400 - $500 more than a similar iron block no matter how you slice it. Gotta figure how much that extra weight savings is worth to you.
Thanks again for all the help kris. I wish I could order all this stuff from you today, but I still have so much modding left to do to my stock engine!
This totals out to 1283.09 for the block and req'd parts. Add the cost of a rotating assembly of your choice and some bearings and youre ready to go. Depending on your access to a machine shop and your ability to do work yourself, LS2 shortblocks are getting pretty darn affordable. I still figure this is going to average out to ~ $400 - $500 more than a similar iron block no matter how you slice it. Gotta figure how much that extra weight savings is worth to you.
Thanks again for all the help kris. I wish I could order all this stuff from you today, but I still have so much modding left to do to my stock engine!
This is the stock LS2 that we ran on our engine dyno. 91 octain/ 19 deg/ 7psi
RPM---Torque---HP
2800---477-----254
3000---476-----272
3500---499-----332
4000---513-----390
4500---514-----440
5000---500-----476
5500---486-----509
6000---456-----521
6500---426-----528
RPM---Torque---HP
2800---477-----254
3000---476-----272
3500---499-----332
4000---513-----390
4500---514-----440
5000---500-----476
5500---486-----509
6000---456-----521
6500---426-----528
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,109
Likes: 0
From: Albuquerque, NM
Originally Posted by mySStery_machine
Sound travels through the metal and will cause a different pitch and that is what the computer is picking up on. If the sensor is clear across the block the sound will be registered differently in the computer therefore it will not be able to compensate for that. I think that is the right answer at least and if I am wrong someone please explain the right reason. This one makes sense to me though as for how the sensor works.
The knock sensors have been changed to a "resonance" style vs the frequency style of old. Resonant style is much more accurate and can be tuned for specific frequencies, unlike the mass spectrum old style. The cam sensor is now mounted external to the timing cover face, this is why the old style LS1/6 cams still work with the front mount sensor. BTW the latest HotRod magazine explains all the above info.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 553
Likes: 0
From: Dallas TX
Glad to see that regular old LS6/LS1 knock sensors work stuck in the side of the block. Retapping the LS2 knock sensor holes and plugging LS1 knock sensors in there sounds like the way to go, too much trouble to make the LS2 knock sensor work with the LS1 PCM, or make an LS2 PCM work with an LS1 car.
Maybe moving them out of the lifter valley will mean they pick up less false knock valvetrain noise?
Maybe moving them out of the lifter valley will mean they pick up less false knock valvetrain noise?
Motor is in! Took a bit longer (I believe my order was the first one in) since I opted for flat top pistons and had the TEA heads shipped to Kris and SDPC built a complete long block incl underdrive pulley, aluminum flywheel, heads, new rockers, lifters and pushrods.
I went very mild with the cam (TSP Torquer) but still expect lots of torque and very reasonable power. Will start the install Wednesday and hope to finish by the weekend. Will tune and break-in for a week and than dyno and WOT tune weekend after next.
I will keep everyone informed.
Perry
I went very mild with the cam (TSP Torquer) but still expect lots of torque and very reasonable power. Will start the install Wednesday and hope to finish by the weekend. Will tune and break-in for a week and than dyno and WOT tune weekend after next.
I will keep everyone informed.
Perry
Sounds awesome. Please let me know how the 402 reacts to such a comparitively small cam. Are you running the stock ratio 1.7 rockers? Can those of us on tight budgets get away with running old mid - agressive 346 ci cams in a big cube short block? Maybe moving up to 1.8 rockers would help?
Thanks,
-T
Thanks,
-T
Here is my thinking. We got a 4 inch stroke now. And I ran my 346 with a 3.62 inch stroke to 7000. I will not do that with the longer stroke. Too much piston speed, too much angular force.
So if I want to limit my rpm to 6600 I must have a cam that makes its power down low. And the mega cams won't do that.
90% of what we feel on the street as power is torque. 90% of what we use at the dragstrip is hp. I don't drag race. The beauty of my 383 LT1s is off idle power. The disappointment I had with my higher hp/lower torque LS1 (than the 383 LT1s) was the lack of jump while in a reasonable gear on the street. I will now have that back. How many times are you cruising at 2500 rpm and want to get around someone or hit it? Now figure how many times you are cruising at 4000 rpm and you want to hit it? I am way more in the former and way less of the latter. That was the problem with my H/C car; it was hella slow at 2500 rpm.
And I have been around long enough that I am not at all concerned by the "my d*ck is bigger than your d*ck" discussions over dyno numbers.
So what is good for me is likely not good for all others but it floats my boat.
I am definitely looking forward to putting the car back on the road. Than I got one of my 383s I want to freshen. It never seems to end.
Perry
So if I want to limit my rpm to 6600 I must have a cam that makes its power down low. And the mega cams won't do that.
90% of what we feel on the street as power is torque. 90% of what we use at the dragstrip is hp. I don't drag race. The beauty of my 383 LT1s is off idle power. The disappointment I had with my higher hp/lower torque LS1 (than the 383 LT1s) was the lack of jump while in a reasonable gear on the street. I will now have that back. How many times are you cruising at 2500 rpm and want to get around someone or hit it? Now figure how many times you are cruising at 4000 rpm and you want to hit it? I am way more in the former and way less of the latter. That was the problem with my H/C car; it was hella slow at 2500 rpm.
And I have been around long enough that I am not at all concerned by the "my d*ck is bigger than your d*ck" discussions over dyno numbers.
So what is good for me is likely not good for all others but it floats my boat.
I am definitely looking forward to putting the car back on the road. Than I got one of my 383s I want to freshen. It never seems to end.
Perry