LS2 402 short block at SDPC!
Originally Posted by Rottluver
Maybe I have missed it in the 19+ pages here, but has anyone come up with a reliable and practical way to work through the (knock) sensor issues? Placement, use, etc?
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From: Lynnwood, WA (North of Seattle)
Originally Posted by KJ@SDPC
Knock sensors are no longer a problem. You just have to use LS1/Ls6 knock sensors (one on each side of the block), and extend your harness. I hope to have harness extentions soon for knock sensors, and the cam sensor!!
Hey KJ !!
When can we expect to see those SDPC catalogs ?
Having the knock sensor extension wires and cam sensor will be a great help. I'm sold !! Just need to get the $$$$ saved up.
BTW.... What heads and cams are available ? AFR 225 ? Anybody can feel free to respond to this one.
THANKS !!
When can we expect to see those SDPC catalogs ?
Having the knock sensor extension wires and cam sensor will be a great help. I'm sold !! Just need to get the $$$$ saved up.
BTW.... What heads and cams are available ? AFR 225 ? Anybody can feel free to respond to this one.
THANKS !!
Last edited by Cool_Hand_Luke; Aug 16, 2005 at 03:30 PM.
OK, guys. I have a flat top short block on the shelf ready to go. Here's the break down...............
*LS2 aluminum block
*Eagle 4.000 stroke crank
*Crower 6.125 I beam rods
*Diamond -2cc flat top pistons
*Diamond file fit rings
*Clevitte "H" rod & main bearings
*Durabond cam bearings
Also will include: LS2 front cover, valley cover, and timming set.
$4,095.00 + shipping!!
*LS2 aluminum block
*Eagle 4.000 stroke crank
*Crower 6.125 I beam rods
*Diamond -2cc flat top pistons
*Diamond file fit rings
*Clevitte "H" rod & main bearings
*Durabond cam bearings
Also will include: LS2 front cover, valley cover, and timming set.
$4,095.00 + shipping!!
Originally Posted by KJ@SDPC
Knock sensors are no longer a problem. You just have to use LS1/Ls6 knock sensors (one on each side of the block), and extend your harness. I hope to have harness extentions soon for knock sensors, and the cam sensor!!
I must have missed something somewhere.
Please post the link to the thread that explains how the use of knock sensors on a LS2 block while using a LS1 computer works.
Someone must have spent countless hours on a engine dyno to figure out that it would work....
Bill
Originally Posted by Billiumss
I must have missed something somewhere.
Please post the link to the thread that explains how the use of knock sensors on a LS2 block while using a LS1 computer works.
Someone must have spent countless hours on a engine dyno to figure out that it would work....
Bill
Please post the link to the thread that explains how the use of knock sensors on a LS2 block while using a LS1 computer works.
Someone must have spent countless hours on a engine dyno to figure out that it would work....
Bill
The knock sensors can be mounted in one of the two unused tapped holes next to where the motor mounts attach. The ping's sonic signature is close enough there to trip the knock sensors.
Originally Posted by GuitsBoy
This does not mean that the stock LS1 tune will run the 402 correctly. It only means that the hardware will run it, assuming its tuned properly.
The knock sensors can be mounted in one of the two unused tapped holes next to where the motor mounts attach. The ping's sonic signature is close enough there to trip the knock sensors.
The knock sensors can be mounted in one of the two unused tapped holes next to where the motor mounts attach. The ping's sonic signature is close enough there to trip the knock sensors.
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Originally Posted by Billiumss
.....and how do you know this? Did someone tell you, are you guessing or did you do some engine dyno testing?
But seriously, yes, its been tested on a dyno, but not by me personally as i cant afford my 402 yet
Do some searches on "402 + Knock Sensors" and youll see some reports. 
Originally Posted by Billiumss
.....and how do you know this? Did someone tell you, are you guessing or did you do some engine dyno testing?
You will have to adjust the sensitivity of the knock sensors when your tune is done. Just like Guitsboy said, the factoy setting will not do the job!! Most tunners out there have worked with an LS2 by now, so tunning should not be an issue.
Originally Posted by freakynipples69
What kind of numbers can I expect if I used this engine and all of my mods below and a nice set of heads?
Edit: After some searching, should I expect around 520rwhp give or take?
Edit: After some searching, should I expect around 520rwhp give or take?
Originally Posted by KJ@SDPC
I didn't see how big of a cam shaft yuou are using, but you will for sure need something over 240 @ .050, a good amount of compression, and some very nice heads. 500 - 520 can for sure be done n/a, but it's not as easy as it sounds.
Originally Posted by freakynipples69
specs of the FM14 cam is - 232"/234" .598"/.598" 112LSA. Guess I'll have to go bigger if I want to break my 500rwhp goal.
Originally Posted by KJ@SDPC
I might be a little off but with the cam you have, and around 11.1 to 1 you would see somewere in the high 460 rwhp. To help hit your goal I would also look into a FAST 90mm intake, and a CNC ported 90mm tb.
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Joined: May 2004
Posts: 272
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From: Houston,TX
i have a stock bottom end with pp ls6 heads and g5x3 cam making 451hp and 410 tq on the dyno, i will sooon buy one of these short blocks to add more tq and few hps but the main reason i'm buying this is cuz it is all forged internals so 300+hp shot n2o won't be a problem with a good tune.
Originally Posted by baloga41
i have a stock bottom end with pp ls6 heads and g5x3 cam making 451hp and 410 tq on the dyno, i will sooon buy one of these short blocks to add more tq and few hps but the main reason i'm buying this is cuz it is all forged internals so 300+hp shot n2o won't be a problem with a good tune.
