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LS2 402 short block at SDPC!

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Old Oct 3, 2005 | 01:30 AM
  #401  
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Hey Kris,

Been busy moving from Vegas to Scottsdale, Az and the heat of the summer here (118 degree highs most days in July) kept the car in the garage while I drove the truck cuz its got better AC, but...

the 402 is freakin AWESOME! To darned hot to race or dyno but the car is a monster and will spin the tires at near any legal speed.

Kinda of neat to hammer it in regular traffic and have the car feel like it is one place one time and some place ahead in the next instant.

Absolutely no issues with the build. Both my LT1 383s burn a bit of oil but not your motor. Keep up the good work, I really really appreciate it.

Perry
Old Oct 4, 2005 | 12:19 PM
  #402  
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Originally Posted by V-10 Killer
Hey Kris, if I were to order a 402 around mid to late February 2006, what would you expect the build and ship time to be? I'm not sure how busy you are around that time of year?
We are trying to keep one or two on the shelf, but to be honest they are selling faster than we can build them. From the day that you order, I should have you one ready to go in about a week (unless we are waiting on parts). Our race shop has changed a few guys around to speed up the build on these so your not waiting three to four weeks. Give me a call when your ready & we will go over the details!!
Old Oct 4, 2005 | 12:20 PM
  #403  
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Originally Posted by Perry Kincy
Hey Kris,

Been busy moving from Vegas to Scottsdale, Az and the heat of the summer here (118 degree highs most days in July) kept the car in the garage while I drove the truck cuz its got better AC, but...

the 402 is freakin AWESOME! To darned hot to race or dyno but the car is a monster and will spin the tires at near any legal speed.

Kinda of neat to hammer it in regular traffic and have the car feel like it is one place one time and some place ahead in the next instant.

Absolutely no issues with the build. Both my LT1 383s burn a bit of oil but not your motor. Keep up the good work, I really really appreciate it.

Perry
Perry ~

I'm glad your happy!! In the end that is all that matters. We work hard to give you a quality product!! If I can ever help with anything else please let me know!!
Old Oct 4, 2005 | 02:58 PM
  #404  
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Originally Posted by KJ@SDPC
We are trying to keep one or two on the shelf, but to be honest they are selling faster than we can build them. From the day that you order, I should have you one ready to go in about a week (unless we are waiting on parts). Our race shop has changed a few guys around to speed up the build on these so your not waiting three to four weeks. Give me a call when your ready & we will go over the details!!

That's great, thanks.
I sent some questions your way in a PM
Old Oct 8, 2005 | 08:54 PM
  #405  
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Originally Posted by MSURacing
So with reguards to the knock sensor, well, all I know is it looks like a flat response knock sensor that S&S Cycle uses in their closed loop spark systems. What that means is that unlike the old sensor that looks for one frequency to report back to the computer, this sensor sends all the noise back to the ecm. The ecm then filters through and looks for knock. There would be no way you could hook this into a old system because it would always see something. If you want to know more, well, you see who I am.
Do you know what the pass band of the old sensor is? If you do and the location of the sensor does not make a huge difference(big if), you could simply put a band pass filter on the new sensor to emulate the old(might need to gain it up or down). If location does make a difference, if you knew the transfer function of both the old and new sensor+location you could develop an active equalizer to convert the new signal to the old style.
Old Oct 11, 2005 | 04:58 PM
  #406  
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The knock sensors are very easy now. You want to use GM part #10456603 and locate one on each side of the block just behind the motor mount.

Racetronix has and we are having built by another company, a "Plug and Play" harness for the knock sensors and the cam sensor. They will plug into your engine harness, and go to each sensor. No cutting!! I hope to have them on the shelf in the next week or so!!
Old Oct 11, 2005 | 07:52 PM
  #407  
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Originally Posted by KJ@SDPC
The knock sensors are very easy now. You want to use GM part #10456603 and locate one on each side of the block just behind the motor mount.

Racetronix has and we are having built by another company, a "Plug and Play" harness for the knock sensors and the cam sensor. They will plug into your engine harness, and go to each sensor. No cutting!! I hope to have them on the shelf in the next week or so!!
Hi Kris I have done this with my motor but when getting the tune do you have to set the priameters different because of the knock sensors being on the side?
Old Oct 12, 2005 | 11:38 AM
  #408  
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Originally Posted by jhong321
Hi Kris I have done this with my motor but when getting the tune do you have to set the priameters different because of the knock sensors being on the side?
Yes!! Your tunner will want to adjust the sensitivity. This is very easy to do, and just about every tunner will know what you are talking about when you tell them what you have done.
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Old Oct 20, 2005 | 08:32 AM
  #409  
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I'm very interested in a LS2 402... My current set up is a stock internal LS6 with AFR 205s and Vortech T-trim. My rings are about shot, and I think the 402 is the way to go. I want to use the 205s and the T-trim @ around 12-14psi. Could you work me up a quote for everything I'll need to do the conversion? Thanks!
Tom
Old Oct 21, 2005 | 11:24 AM
  #410  
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Originally Posted by Z06 Tom
I'm very interested in a LS2 402... My current set up is a stock internal LS6 with AFR 205s and Vortech T-trim. My rings are about shot, and I think the 402 is the way to go. I want to use the 205s and the T-trim @ around 12-14psi. Could you work me up a quote for everything I'll need to do the conversion? Thanks!
Tom
Tom, I sent you a pm. Please let me know if I can get one of these on the way to you!!
Old Oct 21, 2005 | 01:17 PM
  #411  
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KJ,

If I would like to reuse the Lunati crank & Lunati Rods in my current 408ci motor, can you let me know how much the shortblock would cost? Thanks for your help.

-Tuan
Old Oct 23, 2005 | 01:13 PM
  #412  
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What sorta results have we seen with these so far?
Old Oct 24, 2005 | 01:24 AM
  #413  
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KJ@SDPC,
PM has been sent.
Old Nov 2, 2005 | 04:43 PM
  #414  
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Check out our new LS2 timming set. It will come with all of SDPC's LS2 402's We are working on a double row set up,and hope to offer that to you very soon!!


http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/4288...-Chain-Set.htm
Old Nov 2, 2005 | 04:55 PM
  #415  
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Originally Posted by Tuan Le
KJ,

If I would like to reuse the Lunati crank & Lunati Rods in my current 408ci motor, can you let me know how much the shortblock would cost? Thanks for your help.

-Tuan
Sent you a pm!!
Old Nov 2, 2005 | 06:11 PM
  #416  
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Originally Posted by KJ@SDPC
Check out our new LS2 timming set. It will come with all of SDPC's LS2 402's We are working on a double row set up,and hope to offer that to you very soon!!


http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/4288...-Chain-Set.htm
You mean included in the $4095?
Damn I can't wait to order.
I'm inside a month now, you'll be getting a call from me in T minus 30 days and counting!
Old Nov 2, 2005 | 06:54 PM
  #417  
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Originally Posted by KJ@SDPC
We are working on a double row set up,and hope to offer that to you very soon!!
Kris, do you think your double row set will be adequate for a dry-sump setup?

Thanks,
-- Scott
Old Nov 3, 2005 | 12:21 PM
  #418  
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Originally Posted by Builder
Kris, do you think your double row set will be adequate for a dry-sump setup?

Thanks,
-- Scott
Thats a good question. I'm sure we will find out soon. When the LS7 blocks come available we will try one and see.
Old Nov 3, 2005 | 06:21 PM
  #419  
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Originally Posted by KJ@SDPC
Thats a good question. I'm sure we will find out soon. When the LS7 blocks come available we will try one and see.
Maybe an LS2 with a 4-stage Moroso road race dry-sump?
Old Nov 10, 2005 | 10:27 PM
  #420  
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KJ I have sent you a pm



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