I just got my 2005 GTO M6 about 3 weeks ago. I drove the hell out of the car and tried to get as many miles as possible. I went to the dyno with 1300 miles on my car.

My first pull was 305rwhp/301rwtq. My second pull was 297rwhp/394rwtq. These pulls were back to back. I know the engine temp was the skinny bar past the fat middle bar. Since the GTO doesn't show actual engine temp Im not sure what it was.

My stomach sank to about my knees because I was so disappointed that LS1 GTOs were dynoing higher than my LS2 GTO. I then let the car sit and cool for 30-45 minutes and also disconnected the battery. I reconnected the battery and fired the car up and made two more pulls. My third pull was 351rwhp/349rwtq and my fouth pull, agian back to back, was 353rwhp/351rwtq.

Now, my question is that the car finally came up with awesome numbers. It appears to be one of the highest dynoing stock 05 GTOs around. But, what would cause this to happen? I know the car made power but is it going to revert back to the old shitty numbers? Did I do something wrong?

What thing that the shop owner said was that my car didn't sound like it was going WOT. He said he has heard plenty of LSX motors open up to full throttle and mine didn't sound like it was at WOT. I checked underneath to make sure the floormat didn't move and it looked okay. The third and fourth pulls almost locked my knee up because I wanted to make sure it was to the floor.

The power curve was awesome and on the third and fourth pulls I had an air fuel of 12.1:1 and 12.3:1. I was so ashamed that I tossed the 1st and 2nd pull in the garbage. Maybe I should have hung onto those to see if I could find the problem.

Maybe they will still have my dyno runs saved. I can call and ask. Thanks a lot!

 

Wow, what a difference. Do you feel a difference in power since dyno'd? 50 rwhp is alot.
It would have been nice to see some Autotap logs of the timing and especially the TPS voltage to compare the before and after numbers. I don't know about the the 05 GTO's, but I read the C6's have harsh torque management, so that could be it. But once again it's hard to tell unless you log some data.

BTW - Where did you dyno?

 

I had my car dynoed at John Haley Motorsports. I was only charged $80 for 3 pulls.. but I think John felt bad for me after the first shitty runs.

I suppose I could call and see if they have my old dyno sheets saved. I wasn't running any data logger so all I have is basic information.

I can feel the torque management, but I bought the TM eliminator from Cartek.

As far as SOTP performance, I can't feel 50rwhp ... it feels like it was 300rwhp. I guess I won't know unless I go to a track, but I suck at driving anyways.

 

Dam# dude . . . that's the strangest thing I've ever heard?? You were completely stock at the time of all four pulls?

I'd dyno again and get some logging in to see what's happening

 

Bone stock down to the air in the tires and the paper factory filter.

 

 

Have you installed the cartek unit? If so, what are your thougts on it?

 

The battery disconnect zeros all the long term fuel trims. If you did the dyno pull right after reconnecting and starting up, it would have been running mostly on the short term trims and VE tables - which means the Long term trims have not had a chance to 'dumb' the tune down yet - this is where if the trims are positive (car thinks it's been running lean, and adds fuel) when you go to WOT, then it adds that perventage to your WOT enrichment, and the car will run too rich for best power.

You also probably had knock retard on the first couple of pulls, which can pull a lot of timing out, and easily lose 20-30hp. Either way, great final numbers!

 

Haven't installed it yet. It should be here today or tommorow. Apparently it works really well on the C6. Cartek told me they gained .5 in their ET and nearly 6mph for their trap speed.

 

Thanks a lot.

Do you think my car will revert back to the shitty numbers? I'd hate to toss it on a dyno and see low 300's again. I just hate this new throttle by wire crap. I wish I would have just got an LS1 GTO.

 

Johnny Z28....I am considering one of these for my C6 but I am still not sure if its the route I want to go. I would really appreciate it if you could shoot me a PM with your thoughts on the module. I would like to get some info from someone other than Cartek

Thanks
Derek

 

As soon as I get it installed I will let you know. The weather has been way to hot for me to take my car to the track and get a solid baseline. I will see how my car runs and what the butt dyno tells be while rowing through the gears.

The only thing that I didn't like about the module is that it is switch activated. While its engaged you will have a light on the display reading "service TCS or ABS". Once you turn the module off and restart the car the error will be cleared from the display. You should only need the module activated for racing at the track, street racing (if you do this), and for a few spirited runs.

I will report back as soon as I get it done. It sounds like its fairly easy to wire and you only have to splice into one wire underneath the car. The hardest part will be getting the switch installed and mounted in a decent location inside of the car.

 

What kind of dyno where these pulls on??

 

torque management in an M6?

 

Yes....its REALLY bad. JohnnyZ28.....what does the actual switch look like? Where is it located and/or mounted?

Thanks again.

 

If the power loass was not knock retard (from being hot) then yes, it will revert back. This is a common problem when a simple mod like CAI or cat back is done which increases airflow. Best way to know for sure is to have someone datalog the car to see. If the LTRIMs are good (near zero) then you probably just had knock retard. Going to a cooler thermostat will help that if you don't get to tweak the programming.

 

Dynojet.

 

Um, Yes.

 

I just got it in the mail yesterday and read the instructions. Honostly I think Im going to send it back.

The little black box is about the size of a quarter, and there are 8 wires comming out of it. The switch is a generic radio shack switch with two wires.

The instructions say to splice into a few of the wires on the ECM. Then I have to cut my ABS wire and tap into both wires, then drill a hole in my interior panel to mount the switch.

To me it doesn't seem worthwhile. I was under the impression it was a plug and play deal with 1 wire to splice into. I don't feel like voiding my entire warranty and my brake warranty because of a switch. It's a lot easier to hide removing torque management once LS2 EDIT becomes available.

Also, for $250 you'd think it would be a little prettier. The switch and wire would maybe cost $3. I don't see where the other $247 could possibly be.

 

I see.

What data logging program is there for the LS2? Is that EFI Live? I had Speed, Inc. and High-Tech do all my tuning and stuff. So, Im a retard when it comes to logging and or tuning.