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2.20 intake valve...stainless or titanium?

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Old 10-17-2005, 02:33 PM
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Default 2.20 intake valve...stainless or titanium?

I'm getting conflicting advice. Do you think a stainless 2.20 intake would be too heavy, and cause valve float?

ET Performance says they will be ok. 2 other respectable vendors say to use TI.
Old 10-17-2005, 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Greg Fell
I'm getting conflicting advice. Do you think a stainless 2.20 intake would be too heavy, and cause valve float?

ET Performance says they will be ok. 2 other respectable vendors say to use TI.
Well can you justify spending $1500 on just valves? If you can I would so go for it. The stainless are not THAT heavy. You will not ever see the loss. The only big difference would be in high rpm applications prone to float.

Brandon

Last edited by xfactor_pitbulls; 10-17-2005 at 03:18 PM.
Old 10-17-2005, 03:14 PM
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If you are going to solid the stainless will certainly be fine. If you are going to go hydraulic I would keep a very close eye on spring pressure and run a set of Morel lifters to deal with the 150 or so seat pounds you're going to need to be able to spin this thing up in the rpms.

What size motor are these heads going on again?
Old 10-17-2005, 03:43 PM
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I cannot justify $10000 in a lunched motor! I'll tell you that

I was thinking of gettin the TI valves just for the intake. Not sure.

This is going on a 422. Not sure how much the stock lifters can handle.
Old 10-17-2005, 04:40 PM
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wanna post numbers for weights of both versions, along with retainers, etc?
Old 10-17-2005, 04:41 PM
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I agree with DAP. The hydraulic will need very good springs and a good lifter to handle the spring pressure. I'm running a 2.125 stainless in mine, but I have .700 lift springs that provide more than adequate pressure to keep it under control. That's the good thing about these new heads. They allow you to run springs in the 1.4xx range, which provides you with many more choices. If there is anyone you can trust, it would be ET. I say good springs and the stainless. If money is no option, then go titanium.
Old 10-17-2005, 04:43 PM
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I'm in the process of getting them.

Hopefully this may be another type of situation where the 02 ls6 valves were hollow/sodium filled and people were worried about the weight of them.
Old 10-18-2005, 07:10 AM
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hollow stem stainless and good springs
Old 10-18-2005, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by RedHardSupra
wanna post numbers for weights of both versions, along with retainers, etc?
This thread should help. The numbers are a bit of the way down.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/advanced-engineering-tech/394940-those-who-want-big-nasty-cams-lots-lift-etc.html
Old 10-20-2005, 06:13 AM
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Default valves

Greg,

The titanium valves would be better no matter what, but if your cam and spring combo are right a 10 degree 2.200 valve in that length is not very heavy, I made a flow valve from one of the 10 degree rev blanks and it is only 114 grams, and could be lightened another 2 grams. the ls1 2.055 valves come in around 105 grams. A comp 921 spring and a ti retainer would be your most cost effective solution. We can make you the exact shape valve that the Ls7 uses from the factory, so flow would be right.
Old 10-20-2005, 07:21 AM
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Greg, we actually had to calculate valve float rpm in school. I don't remember off hand but will see if I can find the textbook.
Old 10-20-2005, 01:34 PM
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I think the stainless valves will work fine. Just make sure you get some beefy springs, respectable lifers, and light pushrods to go with it.
Old 10-20-2005, 01:44 PM
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I respectfully disagree. I have had valve float issues in the past that resulted in bent valves, worn valve tips, guides and seats that were beat to hell. I think GM uses the TI parts for a reason, they are light and will not float. Also keep in mind, these valves are quite a bit longer (heavier) than the ls1/ls6 valves.
Old 10-20-2005, 06:14 PM
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you could always go with the stainless, and use afr's "hydra rev-kit" to help control valve float.

nevermind I just looked at their website, they don't offer it for the ls1. would probably solve your problem if they did though.

Last edited by justanova; 10-20-2005 at 06:16 PM. Reason: i'm an idiot
Old 10-20-2005, 06:16 PM
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what's a 'hydra rev-kit' and how it works (and costs of course)?
Old 10-20-2005, 06:20 PM
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It's on afr's website but I just looked at it its only for normal smallblocks. for some reason I thought they made it for the ls1. It is just like a normal rev kit for the solid rollers with an extra spring that goes between the head and the lifter but it is for the hydraulic rollers. http://www.airflowresearch.com/ just click on the hydraulic roller rev kits button, they explain it all
Old 10-21-2005, 09:32 AM
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After talking with ET, I've decided to do stainless. haha back/forth/back/forth...they said the 2.20 intake is 114 grams, about 10 more than the 2.055. He assured me the 2.20 stainless would work.
Old 10-21-2005, 09:38 AM
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What brand are you going with, or are you doing the kit?
Old 10-21-2005, 09:53 AM
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ET is putting it together for me. I'll run the 921's and TI retainers. Man, am I impressionable or what? I'll probably want to change my mind again!!!!
Old 10-21-2005, 10:50 AM
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Run Morel lifters. Worth the cost.


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