Started the install of my LS2 402 from SLP (w/ Pics)
01-16-2006, 07:29 PM
#81
Originally Posted by V-10 Killer
If you don't mind me asking, where did you get all the torque specs for the rebuild? I've been having trouble finding some of the specs for odd stuff (ground straps, rear cover.....) Did you find a detailed walkthru or just go right from "how to build ls1's" for step by step stuff?
01-16-2006, 07:36 PM
#82
Originally Posted by Perry Kincy
It is simply like the stock 2000 and up. The harness lays next to the intake and plugs into the coils. The only difference is the coils are on a support vs being bolted directly to the covers.
On your Knock Sensors. Use them (or at least one). Why not? they work wonderfully in the block. The overriding issue is what clearance do your headers give you to put them. Again we put both of the sensors on the passenger side just cause it had better clearance and that made it easier to extend the harness.
Perry
On your Knock Sensors. Use them (or at least one). Why not? they work wonderfully in the block. The overriding issue is what clearance do your headers give you to put them. Again we put both of the sensors on the passenger side just cause it had better clearance and that made it easier to extend the harness.
Perry
On the knock sensors. Should I screw one in in the big bolt hole that is on the drivers side even with the upper engine mount holes but closer to the driver. I am concerned as this is right between 2 cylinders. I have heard nightmares about these damn knock sensors retarding timing because they think that they hear a knock. On the other hand, since I will be spraying it ....alittle....perhaps the knock sensor isn't a bad idea. I just don't want problems.
01-16-2006, 07:44 PM
#83
Sorry that I haven't gotten any progress pics up in a couple of days. I worked on doing a home porting job and epoxy on my throttle body for half of yesterday and a little this morning. Not bad for my first time. I will post a pic tomorrow of it on the motor. I need to pick up some water pump gaskets tomorrow also and will then probably take the block off the engine stand and put it back on the k-member. Not sure know if I posted the problem that I was having with one of the struts (passenger side nut was rusted and fused to the bracket). I was able to take it to a friends shop and he cut the springs off w/ a torch and got the nut off with a grinder (slow and painfull process). So, the new struts are in the k-member. I may slap the headers on it just to look at them on the motor.
01-16-2006, 10:08 PM
#84
as far as the knock sensors,it is my understanding that leaving them out will not set a light (will log a fault) I replaced my buddies short block in his '97 cobra with an '03 cobra blcok, and the same type of thing...I had to call MMR (modular mustangs Racing) the block suppliers and they told me the same thing, just leave them unplugged the new block doesn't use them!.......hope it helps!
btw, I plan on doing a simular build up, so nice thread! although I'm an ASE Master tech, I haven't pulled an LS1 yet, so this helps!
btw, I plan on doing a simular build up, so nice thread! although I'm an ASE Master tech, I haven't pulled an LS1 yet, so this helps!
01-17-2006, 09:58 AM
#85
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cam position sensor I don't know if this helps, but instead of extending the cam position sensor wires from the back of the motor to the front I actually ran had to cut some of the wire off because the wires for it are actually in the front of the motor and then ran to the back. There was a connector on the passenger side of the motor just outside of the loom that houses the injector plugs. I took this loom apart and pulled the wires from the back and ran them to the front. Then I simply switched the outside two wires. I think GM must have originally planned to have the cam position sensor in the front or something. I think this helped to keep from re-routing the wires. I just ran the wires from the connector on the passenger side behind the water pump and to the sensor. Hope this helps some, Brian
01-17-2006, 04:23 PM
#87
OK, so I ported and epoxied the TB. Never done any kind of porting before so please dont be too critical.
I also finally got the motor off the stand and on the k-member and bolted up the water pump and power steering.
You can also see the new struts in these picks.
I also finally got the motor off the stand and on the k-member and bolted up the water pump and power steering.
You can also see the new struts in these picks.
01-18-2006, 02:09 AM
#88
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[QUOTE=98Z28CobraKiller]
QUOTE]
Watch those front brake lines. All that weight pulling down on them is not good. That can cause tiny stress cracks that may eventually lead to line failure. Now might be a good time to upgrade to braided stainless lines
.
QUOTE]
Watch those front brake lines. All that weight pulling down on them is not good. That can cause tiny stress cracks that may eventually lead to line failure. Now might be a good time to upgrade to braided stainless lines
. 
01-18-2006, 05:57 AM
#90
ls2 runs hot hey just a little hint u need to get the mezerie water pump ,that will help with temp and hp.i have also added the slp radiator/slp underdrive pulley/and the manual fan switch,this fan switch is great and u can cool ur car with the pump and fan going without running the engine so after ur pass ur cars very cool again in just minutes just make sure you don't run out your battery.good luck ,any questions pm me,mine and ur setup are very close
01-18-2006, 07:45 PM
#97
Originally Posted by dragonZ28
What thread would that be?
01-18-2006, 08:22 PM
#99
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I just read the thread, and that really pisses me off. If they don't fix the problem, but are found at fault, it is my opinion that they should be removed as a sponsor. We don't needed businesses robbing us like they are trying to do with that poor guy.
98Z28CobraKiller, get the engine inspected before you even install it. Check the thickness at the top of the piston with a micrometer, and see if it is within spec, if not, then return it immediately and buy a shortblock from Scoggin-Dickey or Futral.
98Z28CobraKiller, get the engine inspected before you even install it. Check the thickness at the top of the piston with a micrometer, and see if it is within spec, if not, then return it immediately and buy a shortblock from Scoggin-Dickey or Futral.
