What are the associated mods I'll need for my LS2 402 stroker project? I know there are a lot of things that have to be upgraded to handle that kind of power, but i can only think of a few specific things. Can you guys give me some detailed suggestions (ie: panhard bar, subframes, etc....instead of just saying 'suspension')

Oh, i already have the convertor and transmission issue solved, so what else is needed? Thanks guys!

 

From what I have read, go to a local shop or email vendors and they will inform you of everything you will need. They may also be able to give you , this way you know if you are way over head or not. If you are serious, this may be your best option, this way the friendly shop that helped you out in the begining will be the one you take your buisness to. This way, your next post will be about dyno results.

either that advice or

SEARCH

 

Fuel system, 12 bolt...650 is a lot of power and there is alot associated with putting it to the ground.

Nate

 

These are the parts I think I need so far. Let me know if i'm missing anything or have anything listed that I don't need:

-Moser 12-bolt
-Springs and Shocks
-LCA relocation brackets
-Adj Panhard Bar
-Aluminum Driveshaft
-Custom Driveshaft loop (to clear true dual)
-K-member and A-Arms
-LS2 Meziere Electric Water Pump and thermostat
-FAST 90/90 combo and FAST LS2 Fuel Rails
-Bigger Fuel pump
-BMR Xtreme STB
-BMR Xtreme Duty Torque Arm
-BMR Boxed Subframe connectors
-Sway Bars
-Nitto 555R 315/35/17

Anything I'm missing?

 

-Moser 12-bolt (I'd swap for a Strange)
-Springs and Shocks (Hal's)
-LCA relocation brackets
-Adj Panhard Bar
-Aluminum Driveshaft (Possibally a HD chromoly for that HP level)
-Custom Driveshaft loop (to clear true dual)
-K-member and A-Arms (screw A-arms unless your road racing)
-LS2 Meziere Electric Water Pump and thermostat
-FAST 90/90 combo and FAST LS2 Fuel Rails
-Bigger Fuel pump
-BMR Xtreme STB
-BMR Xtreme Duty Torque Arm (I prefer Spohn)
-BMR Boxed Subframe connectors (I prefer Hotchkis)
-Sway Bars (I'd remove the front one and possibally get a larger rear one)
-Nitto 555R 315/35/17 (I'd use the M/T radials if they make that size)

Reasons: I like the Strange over the Moser. Being the current owner of a Moser, my friends (plural) that have all gotten Stranges have been much higher quality and quieter.

I bought the A-arms for weight savings, but after weighing them, they were 1 lb heavier on the uppers and 2 lighter on the bottom for a total weight savings of 1 lb per side. Totaly not worth it unless you need the adjustability for road racing.

I like BMR stuff, but the subframes hang to low for me. I hate it when I see cars around town with some goofy colored connector hanging 2"s below the body line. The hotchkis's tuck in perfectlly and do not hang below the body line. I've owned 3 f-bodies, and all of them had the Hotchkis sub frames.

The X-treme TQ arm would be overkill for the HP range your looking at, plus the one thing a truely hate about it, is that it welds to the BMR subframes. Once welded, you can't remove the cross brace, which some kinda sucks. The Spohn has proven to be very nice on my car, and it has the "dip" in the cross brace for exaust and what not.

JMO

 

Good write up. Thanks! I'm not worried about low subframes, cuz i have ground effects, so you wouldn't see them. Got a pic of the Spohn with True Duals?

 

I agree with beast but would add if it is a street car please do not use the electric water pump. It just does not flow enough for a street car to keep all your HP in cheak.

Nate

 

Really? I thought they flowed more than a stock pump? Can they not keep up in the upper rpm's? Just wondering before I throw mine back on my "street" 454???

 

good pics. The first one, that hangs SOOO low wouldn't that constantly scrape and stress the mounts? my xpipe will occasionally scrape on speed bumps and it doesn't hang that low. The second one doesn't hang as low, and the duals look like the more traditional ones (either side of DS), but doesnt' look like enough room for cats.

 

stay away from the Mezere....also why arent you going with an LS6 intake? Save your dough and have one polished nice.


F

 

Not sure on the scraping. These aren't my pics. I do plan to use the second type set-up on mine w/ borla XR-1's. As for water pumps, I may start looking at the Evans unit.

 

JMO on things.

 

why would i put an LS6 intake on the LS2 when the FAST is so much better? You can't polish plastic unless it has been painted.

 

um....you didn't say anything.

 

I added things into your quoted text

 

What's better about the FAST intake for a street car?

Everything I've seen shows that the LS6 intake is better for a street car than the FAST, and at half the price. The FAST is only superior on a pure drag car.

The graphs I've seen show the LS6 puts out more hp and tq throughout the curve up until about 5000 rpm. You'll rarely hit 5k rpm on the street. The FAST beats the LS6 by a very small margin above 5k rpm. Even if you're building a drag car, you'd be better off eliminating some weight before spending an extra $400 on an intake. The FAST, to me, is for pure drag-cars only that have already done everything else and need that extra 5 hp at high rpms that the FAST delivers.