the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Anyone have any problems with Rod clearances with a 4.000 Crank in any 6.0l Block? I am using Eagle 6.125" H-Beams..

1997bird

iTrader: (2)

Oliver recommends .001" per 1.00" of circumferance.

Steve Bryant

iTrader: (1)

Are you talking about the rods being in close proximity to the sidewall of the block or are you talking about the recommended oil clearance between the rod journals on the crank and the bearing inside diameter?

Steve

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Rod to Block, which looks good, but some people said to ckeck it with the Cam, make sure it's not too close in that area. I can grind the bottom of the Block, there is no Coolant down there.

1997bird

iTrader: (2)

Sorry I didn't pay close enough attention reading what he was really asking for. I was talking about the bearing to crank oil clearance. On the rod to block clearance I do beleive .025"-.030" is what he want's to know.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

Basically will the Rods hit the sidewalls of the bottom of the Block?

JBM

iTrader: (15)

They should not.

cablebandit

iTrader: (37)

they might hit the windage tray or the front area of the oilpan on a fbody

Steve Bryant

iTrader: (1)

Typically, the LS series blocks don't have to be routinely clearanced for a 4.0" stroker crank like the Gen I/II small blocks did to build a 383. However, you should always check as a routine assembly practice.

I'm in the process of building a 408 myself. I haven't started assembly yet, as I'm waiting on a few more parts and waiting to take some vacation time to do the engine swap. I have a Callies DragonSlayer 4.0" crank and CompStar Rods. I plan on checking the rod clearances against the sides of the block as well as against the bottom of the cam areas and make sure that the reluctor wheel clears the number 8 piston (Wisecos). I'll check as to what is a reasonable clearance so that I can make a judgment. However, I think that it should probably be .1" to .2" or so to be conservative. If the windage tray hits the rods (or comes close) I'll just take a round nose body hammer and use a sandbag as a dolly to dimple the windage tray where necessary rather than shim the whole tray away from the crank. That way I won't shove the oil pickup inlet farther down toward the bottom of the pan.

I am going to run between .002 and .0025" oil clearance on rods and mains.

I don't know if this clears up anything, but I hope that it helps. I'm not saying that this is the optimal setup. It's just my plan of action and I'm sharing it with you as I've done a good bit of research on LS1 stroker buildup. Also, I used to be a diesel truck mechanic and I've rebuilt/assembled several engines in the past.

All my best,

Steve

White_Hawk

iTrader: (3)

I just put together that same setup and there was a TON of room. It wasn't even close.

-Geoff

See5

iTrader: (53)

A few (two or three) washers under the windage try is common practice.

mrr23

iTrader: (3)

i have a 6.0L iron block i'm working on with eagle 4.00" crank and their "ESP" 6.125" rods and have no clearance issues. here's some pics. no, i didn't take pics of the sideall of the block, but there was plenty of room. added a 1/8" thick washer under the windage tray to clear the rods.

nmp27

iTrader: (2)

I didnt have any clearnace issues on mine, BUT, it took me 10 minutes with an aluminum burr and I gave the block 8 extra notches in it just for ***** and grins..

If your questioning it, just fix it now!