Convince me to build LS instead of BBC!!!
Teching In
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
On The Tree
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 126
Likes: 0
From: Indianapolis, IN
http://www.ultrastreet.net/598_classic.asp
WOW!!!
You can literally have a hand held pocket computer tucked inbetween your seats and pick it up and change the boost levels on the fly.
I spoke to Gayle Banks awhile ago, he's one of the top turbo engine builders on the planet. He has TT engines that make 1,600 hp, built for street use, that can be turned up and down while you're rolling to make 500 hp up to 1,600 hp. It simply operates the waste gates via pocket computer.
The blower will than block the air for your street tune and it would run horrible. I don't think is done.
Twin turbo or big single turbo will do it. You don't ever touch the belts, you just pick up your hand held computer and push a couple buttons.
Look at this: 522 BBC Twin Turbo. 2,000 hp with boost controller turned up....1,000 hp with it turned down. You can do the same thing with a 1,000 hp TT BBC, turn it down to 700-800 whenever you want. This guy is the king of TT engines.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUOOK06UrZs
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I spoke to Gayle Banks awhile ago, he's one of the top turbo engine builders on the planet. He has TT engines that make 1,600 hp, built for street use, that can be turned up and down while you're rolling to make 500 hp up to 1,600 hp. It simply operates the waste gates via pocket computer.
The blower will than block the air for your street tune and it would run horrible. I don't think is done.
Twin turbo or big single turbo will do it. You don't ever touch the belts, you just pick up your hand held computer and push a couple buttons.
Look at this: 522 BBC Twin Turbo. 2,000 hp with boost controller turned up....1,000 hp with it turned down. You can do the same thing with a 1,000 hp TT BBC, turn it down to 700-800 whenever you want. This guy is the king of TT engines.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUOOK06UrZs
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in reference to the procharger build and my street tune... why cant I just take off the piping from blower to throttle body and slap a cleaner on the TB. this way it wont block airflow....
yet another idea for the procharged street tune... cant i put the biggest pully on the blower and adjust the bypass valve to bleed off the majority of the boost.. this way id only be getting say 2lbs of boost?
any comments on this?
im just trying to figure out this procharger vs TT deal..
TECH Veteran
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 4,117
Likes: 0
From: Ft. Lauderdale, FL, USA
It can give you exactly what you want....650 RWHP during street driving and then turn it up to 1,000 RWHP for the races.
And anywhere inbetween.
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You can turn the boost up as you drive into the track and you will have no idea the boost was just turned up, if you're driving casual. But when you go for a run all the power will be there. Its not like you turn up the boost on the fly and feel anything, you would turn it up before you were into the throttle.
It can give you exactly what you want....650 RWHP during street driving and then turn it up to 1,000 RWHP for the races.
And anywhere inbetween.
.
It can give you exactly what you want....650 RWHP during street driving and then turn it up to 1,000 RWHP for the races.
And anywhere inbetween.
.
I guess what im trying to figure out is if pulling the belt, removing the piping or adjusting bypass valve is doable on a procharger for a street tune...
i kno turbos are the epitomy of this but i guess im playing devils advocate to see if prochargers are capable of this..
TECH Veteran
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 4,117
Likes: 0
From: Ft. Lauderdale, FL, USA
Ya I understand but Im saying the only place I would dial it up would be at the track. Hence the benefit of doing it in the car with a computer vs.. putting on the belt or adjusting the bypass valve on the procharger isnt much of a selling point for me.
I guess what im trying to figure out is if pulling the belt, removing the piping or adjusting bypass valve is doable on a procharger for a street tune...
i kno turbos are the epitomy of this but i guess im playing devils advocate to see if prochargers are capable of this..
I guess what im trying to figure out is if pulling the belt, removing the piping or adjusting bypass valve is doable on a procharger for a street tune...
i kno turbos are the epitomy of this but i guess im playing devils advocate to see if prochargers are capable of this..
.
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Verdad Gallardo for arguments sake.. lets say I have a sub 10 second car without some of the safety requirements such as roll cage and window net.. what would happen if i bring it to the strip? trying to see how far im going to have to take this...
TECH Veteran
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 4,117
Likes: 0
From: Ft. Lauderdale, FL, USA
I'm no 1/4 mile drag expert but I think thats exactly how it works. Other guys can chime in with the specific ET's and whats needed as you run faster and faster.
If I had to guess, running in the 10's....you need a suit, helmet, full roll cage. There's definitely a few more things but I'm not sure what they are, like a certain type of flywheel is even required.
For running 10's though, its not really alot of things needed.
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ya I checked out NHRA's site and they have a list of stuff needed..Im looking to be in the 7.5 to 9.99 class. Most of the things are would be in the car anyways, such as aftermarket axles, sfi approved flywheels, etc. But I dont want to do things that would ruin the streetability and look of the car.. such as roll cage, parachute, window net. I guess what im trying to find out is if your just running for yourself (no competitions or events) how strict are the tracks, generally speaking?
http://nhra.com/tech_specs/ETQuickRef.html
http://nhra.com/tech_specs/ETQuickRef.html
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 301
Likes: 20
Most tracks won't let you get away with more than 2 passes if you run faster than is required for designated safety equipment. Roll bars are needed at 11.5 and faster, cages start at 9.99 and faster. Most will let you run a pass or two without much more than a cursory check of the car, just want to make sure at this point it's not a POS that looks like it'll fall apart on the big end. Once you've proven what you can run - or even if you're sandbagging and they can tell it - it's tech inspection time.
Put yourself in their shoes - how would you handle it if you let an otherwise solid 10.5 second or faster car run without a rollbar and it got squirrely at speed and killed or seriously injured the driver? A driver signed release of liability isn't worth the match it takes to burn it, it'll still be his *** if something goes wrong.
Why would you want to run faster than 10 seconds without a full cage anyway? Many cars actually run faster with a roll bar/cage due to increased chassis stiffness. That's hauling the mail and bad **** happens incredibly fast at that speed - way faster than you can react to it. If you're asking these questions, I take it you've not done a lot of racing at the track? Trying to handle a sub-10 second car without a good bit of racing experience isn't something very many guys can do, they can get away from you in the blink of an eye and the consequences aren't good. Big horsepower is damned dangerous.
Put yourself in their shoes - how would you handle it if you let an otherwise solid 10.5 second or faster car run without a rollbar and it got squirrely at speed and killed or seriously injured the driver? A driver signed release of liability isn't worth the match it takes to burn it, it'll still be his *** if something goes wrong.
Why would you want to run faster than 10 seconds without a full cage anyway? Many cars actually run faster with a roll bar/cage due to increased chassis stiffness. That's hauling the mail and bad **** happens incredibly fast at that speed - way faster than you can react to it. If you're asking these questions, I take it you've not done a lot of racing at the track? Trying to handle a sub-10 second car without a good bit of racing experience isn't something very many guys can do, they can get away from you in the blink of an eye and the consequences aren't good. Big horsepower is damned dangerous.
no i dont much track racing under my belt... my dad has a cuda with a reworked 440 that ive taken to the track.. it runs high tens and it doesnt have a roll cage.. ive only done 2 passes each time ive been out with it so I guess i lucked out and they didnt mind. I guess roll cage is a must then....
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 301
Likes: 20
High 10's is moving on, I have no doubt that a decent 440 could do it. The 426 hemi gets a lot of attention, but a similarly prepped 440 will generally out power 'em. I have a good buddy with a '72 Charger that we have a good 440 block for, he's wanting to build it up for a good street-strip ride, sure would like to learn more about what's available for 'em. I don't car much for Mopars, but the '70 'cuda is one of my all-time favorite muscle cars.
Most tracks won't let you get away with more than 2 passes if you run faster than is required for designated safety equipment. Roll bars are needed at 11.5 and faster, cages start at 9.99 and faster. Most will let you run a pass or two without much more than a cursory check of the car, just want to make sure at this point it's not a POS that looks like it'll fall apart on the big end. Once you've proven what you can run - or even if you're sandbagging and they can tell it - it's tech inspection time.
Put yourself in their shoes - how would you handle it if you let an otherwise solid 10.5 second or faster car run without a rollbar and it got squirrely at speed and killed or seriously injured the driver? A driver signed release of liability isn't worth the match it takes to burn it, it'll still be his *** if something goes wrong.
Why would you want to run faster than 10 seconds without a full cage anyway? Many cars actually run faster with a roll bar/cage due to increased chassis stiffness. That's hauling the mail and bad **** happens incredibly fast at that speed - way faster than you can react to it. If you're asking these questions, I take it you've not done a lot of racing at the track? Trying to handle a sub-10 second car without a good bit of racing experience isn't something very many guys can do, they can get away from you in the blink of an eye and the consequences aren't good. Big horsepower is damned dangerous.
Put yourself in their shoes - how would you handle it if you let an otherwise solid 10.5 second or faster car run without a rollbar and it got squirrely at speed and killed or seriously injured the driver? A driver signed release of liability isn't worth the match it takes to burn it, it'll still be his *** if something goes wrong.
Why would you want to run faster than 10 seconds without a full cage anyway? Many cars actually run faster with a roll bar/cage due to increased chassis stiffness. That's hauling the mail and bad **** happens incredibly fast at that speed - way faster than you can react to it. If you're asking these questions, I take it you've not done a lot of racing at the track? Trying to handle a sub-10 second car without a good bit of racing experience isn't something very many guys can do, they can get away from you in the blink of an eye and the consequences aren't good. Big horsepower is damned dangerous.
High 10's is moving on, I have no doubt that a decent 440 could do it. The 426 hemi gets a lot of attention, but a similarly prepped 440 will generally out power 'em. I have a good buddy with a '72 Charger that we have a good 440 block for, he's wanting to build it up for a good street-strip ride, sure would like to learn more about what's available for 'em. I don't car much for Mopars, but the '70 'cuda is one of my all-time favorite muscle cars.
Shoot me a message anytime if you have any questions....
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 159
Likes: 0
From: Kansas City
I have seen some people who run all out to the 1000' mark and then let off just to dial in their car if they do not have the correct safety equipment. If you are going to spend any kind of money to go fast, why would you not spend a little more to save your own neck?
i kno im bringing back an old topic but im still puzzled on what power adder to use on an EFI 540... twin turbos procharger or nitrous... for those who have been following i want to have a "street tune" of 550-750 horses and a track tune of "1000+" hp.. ive been back and forth on each one..
i kno the turbos are the epitomy of different tunes but its alot of fab and money i dont kno if i want all that under my hood... i kno dont shoot me down twin turbos are nice but a clean engine bay is a fetish of mine..
nitrous is the cheapest initially but with a big shot i need to deal with race gas and 8 more injectors..
procharger would be great.. however i mentioned b4 that my street tune would be to either pull the belt and piping or somehow put on a big pulley and bleed alot of boost off from the bypass...
comments please!!!
i kno the turbos are the epitomy of different tunes but its alot of fab and money i dont kno if i want all that under my hood... i kno dont shoot me down twin turbos are nice but a clean engine bay is a fetish of mine..
nitrous is the cheapest initially but with a big shot i need to deal with race gas and 8 more injectors..
procharger would be great.. however i mentioned b4 that my street tune would be to either pull the belt and piping or somehow put on a big pulley and bleed alot of boost off from the bypass...
comments please!!!
