that merlin with a 250 shot would probly fit the needs of that chevelle for less than 13500

 

All aluminum 572 on sale at Bill Mitchell for $15K

http://www.theengineshop.com/

 

Thank you; I really appreciate this resource. I saw a 755 HP engine for $10,750
http://www.ultrastreet.net/598_classic.asp

WOW!!!

 

I was debating TT and procharger today and I was thinking... I dont need to kick up boost on the fly w/ a handheld comp.. over 600 horses wont plant on the street anyways.. if im at the track i wuld run everything i got anyways..

in reference to the procharger build and my street tune... why cant I just take off the piping from blower to throttle body and slap a cleaner on the TB. this way it wont block airflow....

yet another idea for the procharged street tune... cant i put the biggest pully on the blower and adjust the bypass valve to bleed off the majority of the boost.. this way id only be getting say 2lbs of boost?

any comments on this?

im just trying to figure out this procharger vs TT deal..

 

You can turn the boost up as you drive into the track and you will have no idea the boost was just turned up, if you're driving casual. But when you go for a run all the power will be there. Its not like you turn up the boost on the fly and feel anything, you would turn it up before you were into the throttle.

It can give you exactly what you want....650 RWHP during street driving and then turn it up to 1,000 RWHP for the races.

And anywhere inbetween.


.

 

Ya I understand but Im saying the only place I would dial it up would be at the track. Hence the benefit of doing it in the car with a computer vs.. putting on the belt or adjusting the bypass valve on the procharger isnt much of a selling point for me.

I guess what im trying to figure out is if pulling the belt, removing the piping or adjusting bypass valve is doable on a procharger for a street tune...

i kno turbos are the epitomy of this but i guess im playing devils advocate to see if prochargers are capable of this..

 

BBC all the way. Cheaper and alot easier to hit your goal with.

 

Man, pulling belts and piping is gonna get old and what a pain in the ***.


.

 

for arguments sake.. lets say I have a sub 10 second car without some of the safety requirements such as roll cage and window net.. what would happen if i bring it to the strip? trying to see how far im going to have to take this...

 

Some tracks will warn you not to run faster than a certain time again, some tracks will stop you on the spot and tell you to get the required safety gear and mods before you come back, some won't care for months. It all depends on the 1/4 mile ET you run for what safety items you need. Obviously, the lower the ET, the more **** they require.

I'm no 1/4 mile drag expert but I think thats exactly how it works. Other guys can chime in with the specific ET's and whats needed as you run faster and faster.

If I had to guess, running in the 10's....you need a suit, helmet, full roll cage. There's definitely a few more things but I'm not sure what they are, like a certain type of flywheel is even required.

For running 10's though, its not really alot of things needed.


.

 

ya I checked out NHRA's site and they have a list of stuff needed..Im looking to be in the 7.5 to 9.99 class. Most of the things are would be in the car anyways, such as aftermarket axles, sfi approved flywheels, etc. But I dont want to do things that would ruin the streetability and look of the car.. such as roll cage, parachute, window net. I guess what im trying to find out is if your just running for yourself (no competitions or events) how strict are the tracks, generally speaking?

http://nhra.com/tech_specs/ETQuickRef.html

 

Most tracks won't let you get away with more than 2 passes if you run faster than is required for designated safety equipment. Roll bars are needed at 11.5 and faster, cages start at 9.99 and faster. Most will let you run a pass or two without much more than a cursory check of the car, just want to make sure at this point it's not a POS that looks like it'll fall apart on the big end. Once you've proven what you can run - or even if you're sandbagging and they can tell it - it's tech inspection time.
Put yourself in their shoes - how would you handle it if you let an otherwise solid 10.5 second or faster car run without a rollbar and it got squirrely at speed and killed or seriously injured the driver? A driver signed release of liability isn't worth the match it takes to burn it, it'll still be his *** if something goes wrong.
Why would you want to run faster than 10 seconds without a full cage anyway? Many cars actually run faster with a roll bar/cage due to increased chassis stiffness. That's hauling the mail and bad **** happens incredibly fast at that speed - way faster than you can react to it. If you're asking these questions, I take it you've not done a lot of racing at the track? Trying to handle a sub-10 second car without a good bit of racing experience isn't something very many guys can do, they can get away from you in the blink of an eye and the consequences aren't good. Big horsepower is damned dangerous.

 

no i dont much track racing under my belt... my dad has a cuda with a reworked 440 that ive taken to the track.. it runs high tens and it doesnt have a roll cage.. ive only done 2 passes each time ive been out with it so I guess i lucked out and they didnt mind. I guess roll cage is a must then....

 

High 10's is moving on, I have no doubt that a decent 440 could do it. The 426 hemi gets a lot of attention, but a similarly prepped 440 will generally out power 'em. I have a good buddy with a '72 Charger that we have a good 440 block for, he's wanting to build it up for a good street-strip ride, sure would like to learn more about what's available for 'em. I don't car much for Mopars, but the '70 'cuda is one of my all-time favorite muscle cars.

 

While I agree with you almost 100%. If you go faster than 10.0 or 135 mph,(if the track is a real sanctioned track) they will excuse you the first time you do it and tell you not to bring the car back without a certification and to do your liscensing passes. Sometimes you can get away with 11.20s and no bar but even then if you do it twice you get the boot. Or some tracks just don't care about safety. But everyone should...

 

Shoot me a message anytime if you have any questions....

 

I have seen some people who run all out to the 1000' mark and then let off just to dial in their car if they do not have the correct safety equipment. If you are going to spend any kind of money to go fast, why would you not spend a little more to save your own neck?

 

ya.. i have seen the same.. some even brake after the 1000' foot

 

i kno im bringing back an old topic but im still puzzled on what power adder to use on an EFI 540... twin turbos procharger or nitrous... for those who have been following i want to have a "street tune" of 550-750 horses and a track tune of "1000+" hp.. ive been back and forth on each one..
i kno the turbos are the epitomy of different tunes but its alot of fab and money i dont kno if i want all that under my hood... i kno dont shoot me down twin turbos are nice but a clean engine bay is a fetish of mine..
nitrous is the cheapest initially but with a big shot i need to deal with race gas and 8 more injectors..
procharger would be great.. however i mentioned b4 that my street tune would be to either pull the belt and piping or somehow put on a big pulley and bleed alot of boost off from the bypass...

comments please!!!

 

looks to me like n2o is your best choice for what you want, budget wise.