i have a lt1 car and looking into building a 6.0 with the l92/l72 top end combination. just looking for advice on what block to start with. what advantages do each offer?

thanks
steve

 

You can put more power into an iron block than an aluminum block. And the pro's for an aluminum block would be that its lighter in weight. Pretty cut n dry there...

 

If I wouldn`t have sprayed or went FI. I would have went alum! But I spray a 200 shot and wanted it built right to last. The weight isn`t that bad at all! Iron 408 all the way!

 

I havn't heard of anyone splitting an aluminum block.

 

they don't split,they pull the head bolt threads out...

 

the iron blocks are also cheaper. i got a used lq4 complete pull out engine with 9,000 miles on it for $1,000. this was oil pan, complete intake, water pump, and some other crap i sold. you can find blocks floating around here and on the performance trucks site all the time.

 

Why dont you tell us a little more about what your goals are so we can help you out? Money, power.. etc.

Biggest differences are obviously weight and strength. But if money is no concirn you can go with a MID sleeved ls1 block and have the best of both worlds and bore it to whatever size you want.

MID ls1 blocks are floating around pushing 1000hp.

Or maybe you're truely set on a 6.0 blcok.

 

no, they don't

only real problem is bore distortion/ring seal over time. plenty of aluminum blocks over 1khp. let the people that have done it tell you the real truths.

 

all have valid points but more info on goals would be helpful. iron is cost effective and strong, aluminum can be costly, light, and strong. with aluminum blocks you would have to get a mid sleeved ls1 block to get a 4in bore or start with the l92 block or ls2 neither of which are cheap if done right. however, a well built 408 aka erik koeging iron block runs about 3700-4200 depending on application. not cheap either but one hell of a realiable base to take as much abuse u can throw at it. look at cubes if you go with iron no replacement for displacement, or if you go aluminum 6.0l spin that bitch fast and hard. problem with the l76 is that is chokes at about 6000rpm, but there are fixes for that. and now im just rambling give us some more info and well go from there.

 

i was looking to do a 6.0 l92/l72 combo....i'm not set on iron or aluminum....but i'm not planning to spend a down payment on a house to build this motor. i guess on trying to keep the cost down...maybe iron would be the way to go, unless i come across a cheap ls2 block. what kind of cost would i be looking at to re-sleeve a ls1 block and anywhere in michigan that can do that work?

 

a sleeved block is around $2k.

 

here is a site that details whats done and done properly and the cost just for the mid sleeved block is 2300. so you might want to eliminate that from your cost effective approach. there are shops that will put a dry sleeve in an ls1 to get a 4.00 bore but id go with iron.
http://www.customdesignperformance.c...n_sleeves.html

 

If cost is the root issue aluminum or steel is not the question to ask. THe 400.00 or so difference in price is less than the difference in a good VS average rotating assembly.

I would look at other areas to save $$ before I looked at the block.

 

People put 6.0 blocks in F bodies???

 

ive got an iron one and i love it. ive even got a nice drop on it.

 

agree with u 100% the weight factor is not even that bad-for the power u get out of these engines these days-

if money was no problem i would buy and put lsx blocks in all my toys-

 

they make 8.2 liters now! haha.

 

What will they think of next? Big ol Cummins Diesel blocks? Caterpillar? !!

 

Aluminum. No question.

 

i like the straight forward answer but i dont think it helps him make a decision if you have no explanation lol. either way its still better than a ricer or ford.