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Looking to build a motor...

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Old Dec 30, 2007 | 12:07 AM
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Default Looking to build a motor...

welp, i sold my H/C camaro middle of last summer and im lookin to build something new and dont really wanna spend 7-10K for another high mileage LS1 car and basically completely redo the car by ripping everthing out and puttin heads and cam and blah blah blah into it...so im planning on just buyin a 6.0L iron block and building it...finding an auto trans and slap on it and buying a roller and slapping it in it....good idea or bad?

basically what would you guys do?...i kinda want to have a project of my own building it from scratch...as of now i have 4K to spend...but i put up about $300 a week for mod money...also my plans for the car will be pretty much 50/50 street/strip...it'll see street time but ALOT of strip as well...it'll have alot of weight saving mods...
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Old Dec 30, 2007 | 07:40 AM
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you can build a strong 6.0 motor using the LQ9 shortblock and a different heads/cam combo. i bought an LQ4 engine before knowing the differences, so i bought a set of dome (10 cc haha) pistons and scat h beam rods. basically for a little over a grand i can have a bulletproof bottom end. using p&p L92 heads and gmmp's carbed L92 intake (with injectors) should make some good power at ~ 12:1 cr. i don't expect to have more than $5k total in the engine, as i am making a few bucks back off of selling 6.0 parts i don't need. i gave $1k for a 6.0 engine, complete from pan to intake.
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Old Jan 1, 2008 | 08:04 PM
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so, you guys who have maybe experience with this kinda buildup....where do i start...do i build the motor then lok for something to stuff it into...or do i buy a roller so ill have it, then start building my motor....im workin on a 4K budget intill i save up more FYI...
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Old Jan 1, 2008 | 08:21 PM
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The best thing to do is get a gameplan.Figure out what you want and can afford in the time you want to have it done by.Then you can make a list of all the parts you need to finish.Once you get that you can start getting prices and decide how much you can spend for each part.The worst thing that can happen(and does way too often)is you change your mind half way through the build,that always costs,you end up with a bunch of parts you arent going to use and cant get what you paid for them.Plus if you know exactly what you are going to do and the parts you need,if you find a deal on something you can get it,but if you not sure thats what your going to need-sometimes you will pass it up.
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Old Jan 1, 2008 | 10:51 PM
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my goal is a 400 CI + engine that can handle a lil nitrous and i could build it with say a 5K budget...for the body i plan on running a 98+ trans am or camaro with weight saving mods and im bout 50/50 on the trans right now...id like to have a Auto for track but 6 speeds sure are fun...
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Old Jan 2, 2008 | 03:59 AM
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go with a 6.0 iron block,eagle rotating assy,l92's with l76 intake.That is probably going to cost a little more than 5k though.You would be better off just using a stock crank to save a couple of bucks and keep you closer to your 5k budget.
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Old Jan 2, 2008 | 08:49 AM
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you can build a stong iron 6.0 for $5k. i'm using the stock crank, forged rods and pistons, L92 heads, GMPP carb style intake (with injectors), custom cam + supporting mods for less than $5k including the cost of a complete 6.0 intake to pan. i'm going to get back a few bucks selling parts that i have not included in the price. the money will fall into getting a motor with 600hp to hook in a 3rd gen TA haha.
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Old Jan 2, 2008 | 10:17 AM
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I am going to build a stock cube L92 with forged pistons/rods, L92 heads, undecided on the intake.
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Old Jan 2, 2008 | 10:33 AM
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There's tons of options around the $4000 dollar mark. I personally really like the L92 based short-blocks because that bore really helps out the L92 cylinder heads. We're currently working on a 422 L92 engine that will be capable of running ls7 heads! A 422 or 418 l92 would be a awesome configuration when combined with PRC cnc ported l92 heads or PRC cnc ported ls7 heads on that 422 4.1 bore setup. I'll let you guys know how that 4.1 bore motor works.

As far a cheaper options for big cube motors checkout our 408 iron & 402 aluminum engines. They're currently on HUGE special & we stock approx 30-40 engines! The last thing you want to do is buy a $4000 product from someone and wait several months for it to be built.

http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/cate...MID=3&catid=28
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Old Jan 2, 2008 | 11:54 AM
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Take a look at this page if you would like to build something bigger.

http://www.schwankeshortblocks.com/Short%20Blocks.htm

We can top it off however you would like.
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Old Jan 2, 2008 | 03:39 PM
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^^^^Hey Schwanke.........are you a sponsor on this board?
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Old Jan 2, 2008 | 04:30 PM
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According to my Avatar I am!!! Yes, finally got it straightened out today.
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Old Jan 2, 2008 | 04:31 PM
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I see alot of engine advice and it is all good . Depending on which way you want to go.I am kinda partial to the L-92 heads and a iron 408. But you said you would need a roller to put the engine in. To start with you will most likly not be able to build an LSX powered engine and a roller and every thing you need for the car for no less than about 10,000. Especially if you want a 98 or newer T/A body.I think most people that have built a few cars all the way up will agree.So my suggestion would be to buy someone else's project they can't afford to finish. There are alot of them around. For example you find a T/A with no motor or trans. But is does have BMR suspension including K member.And a 9" rear end .The interior is ok.So that would be the car you want. They can't sell it for much because it has no drive train.It would be hard to get screwed over on the car because what you see is what you get.And there is alot of key part's in that roller you need. You could pick something like this up for 3,000 to 5,000 depending on how nice the car is.It would be hard to go wrong with it.Total up the cost of a 9" rear end full suspension and you will basically be getting the body for free. I would definatly get a car before I started builing the engine. You don't know what the car you buy will already have with it like headers, exaust system.
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Old Jan 2, 2008 | 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by IH8FORD
I see alot of engine advice and it is all good . Depending on which way you want to go.I am kinda partial to the L-92 heads and a iron 408. But you said you would need a roller to put the engine in. To start with you will most likly not be able to build an LSX powered engine and a roller and every thing you need for the car for no less than about 10,000. Especially if you want a 98 or newer T/A body.I think most people that have built a few cars all the way up will agree.So my suggestion would be to buy someone else's project they can't afford to finish. There are alot of them around. For example you find a T/A with no motor or trans. But is does have BMR suspension including K member.And a 9" rear end .The interior is ok.So that would be the car you want. They can't sell it for much because it has no drive train.It would be hard to get screwed over on the car because what you see is what you get.And there is alot of key part's in that roller you need. You could pick something like this up for 3,000 to 5,000 depending on how nice the car is.It would be hard to go wrong with it.Total up the cost of a 9" rear end full suspension and you will basically be getting the body for free. I would definatly get a car before I started builing the engine. You don't know what the car you buy will already have with it like headers, exaust system.

good advice man and thanx....as far as the roller goes...i havent really set a budget...the project budget will be 10-12K im expecting that...i just dont wanna pay that OR more for a fbody with a stock LS1 in it and tear it down and put 5K PLUS back into it...cause then id be spending money i wouldn't have from a ground up build...but ill defently keep that in mind and keep my eyes open for a good roller around here on tech...

As for another question for you guys...whats the diff between a truck 6.0 iron block and a LS2....they are the same cubes correct...which is better?Or is it just the iron/alum thing the only real diff?
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Old Jan 2, 2008 | 09:24 PM
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The main difference in the blocks is that one is iron and the other is alum.The iron block is stronger,but you give up some weight.Its 300.00 cheaper too.
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Old Jan 2, 2008 | 10:57 PM
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Thats what i thought..thanx guys you've been ALOT of help...ill update you guys when i decide for sure on everything
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Old Jan 4, 2008 | 04:07 PM
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No problem,if you have any questions or need parts or machinework let me know
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Old Jan 5, 2008 | 01:35 AM
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SVThis, since your already in Virginia, give Shawn at Virginia Speed a call. Im sure they can put something together for you close to what your looking to spend, and you'll be hard pressed to find a better builder.
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Old Jan 5, 2008 | 03:38 AM
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haha if i could get an instate discount that'd be killar...
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