tom's2005gto

iTrader: (3)

I am having a new stroker 402 built for my 05 GTO. I was thinking of going iron for strength, but like the thought of the less weight and staying with aluminum.

Also installing a Maggie 122 OVERDRIVEN, forged internals.

Pro's vs. Con's?

Tom

WKMCD

iTrader: (2)

I would probably go with the iron block for a 408 since you're running boost.

My $.02

tom's2005gto

iTrader: (3)

I thought the same thing, but the shop has suggested aluminum to keep the weight off the already heavy nose. But I am a "overkill it" kinda guy, and like the thought of a make it strong as possible, and iron is the way to do that, correct?

95FbFormula

iTrader: (25)

a 402 on boost would be fine unless you plan on 900+ the iron is stronger and only 88 pounds more if using the iron i would do 408 also

FootLbs

iTrader: (7)

Depends how much power you are wanting to make. If you want to stay less than 700whp aluminum should be fine.

tom's2005gto

iTrader: (3)

Well there's another question. I was producing 528 rwhp and 497 torque. With the new setup, I'm guessing at 615 rwhp but the torque will be killer, probably over 700 lbs.

With that, a good aluminum block then?

Tom

tom's2005gto

iTrader: (3)

I checked into the DM Performance main girdle for the LS2. I am thinking about adding one of those just to make sure the bottom end stays together. And also add ARP stud kit for the heads.



Tom

ChucksZ06

iTrader: (9)

No way I would add a chunk of iron to the front on that car...the f.i. is going to add plenty as it is. How often do you hear of aluminum blocks splitting or failing even at extreme power levels?

baldurann

iTrader: (15)

Aluminum 408ci, imo. Just get the block sonic checked. Iron blocks are just too heavy imo, and you aren't going to see a strength issue with the kind of power you are talking about.

tom's2005gto

iTrader: (3)

I think I'll stick with aluminum.

Thanks, Tom

tom's2005gto

iTrader: (3)

The block is going to be ordered from GM. Having it sonic checked, is that something done at a local machine shop?

Tom

restoman45

iTrader: (2)

couldnt agree more...

tom's2005gto

iTrader: (3)

I think I'll stick with aluminum. Anyone hear use the DM Performance main stud girdle?

Tom

ArklaTexan

iTrader: (24)

Tom how much is the build? I am looking at doing the same when mine lets go

tom's2005gto

iTrader: (3)

I am having the guys at House of Torque in marietta, GA. do my build. They are formally TRISTAR.

Pricing...... hard to say. I bought most of my stuff. They supplied, block, rotating assembly.

Give them a call, they are great guys.

Tom

JBM

iTrader: (15)

Ha. Depends what you want to do with the car. Road race and rebuild every year? Then aluminum is the choice. Would also go with billet main caps, as the aluminum blocks have a greater tendency to experience cap walk at high hp levels. Drag and rebuild every year? Probably still aluminum. Want to push 800+ rwhp and have the motor for a couple of seasons? Go iron.

tom's2005gto

iTrader: (3)

I know this sounds crazy, but all this work is going it to a car that will be street driven on nice days.

Tom

restoman45

iTrader: (2)

ha-ha, mr. 1k+ hp...I have to say the only thing on my car that is better is my block is lighter (not necessarily better )!!!...your everything else though has me beat

tom's2005gto

iTrader: (3)

Sounds like a beast!

edcmat-l1

iTrader: (10)

Aluminum all the way. Unless you wanna exceed 1000 hp. Then maybe iron.