VR1 Racing oil
10-04-2008, 11:43 PM
#41
I run the penzoil 5 w 20 in my 6.0 lq9. Full synthetic. Brand new engine. Cranked up with 70 psi cold 55 hot at idle. My engine is clearenced for the 5 w 20. I have had 0 issues except a little valve noise on cold start up. No smoke or blow by from start up. Has anyone else had this success.
10-05-2008, 12:17 AM
#42
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Penzoil has come along way since I started wrenching. But from the fields I work out of and my experiance with it. I wont use it. Just like some with RP or Quaker state and so on. KinderMorgan owns the fields now so I know Penzoil isnt made from that crap. Overall Ive had great success with Valvaline products. I think desiels oils are very strong due to the fact that these powerplants put more stress on oils than our gasoline engines.
10-07-2008, 03:01 PM
#43
I run the penzoil 5 w 20 in my 6.0 lq9. Full synthetic. Brand new engine. Cranked up with 70 psi cold 55 hot at idle. My engine is clearenced for the 5 w 20. I have had 0 issues except a little valve noise on cold start up. No smoke or blow by from start up. Has anyone else had this success.
If you're running synthetic from the get go, then you really are flirtinwithdisaster! You need to run regular motor oil, preferrably stuff with lots of ZDDP additives, otherwise you may run the risk of your rings not seating properly, and you will then start to have oil burning issues. I would recommend VR1, its cheap, its good, and its got all the additives you need. Read through the beginning of the post, and you will get a better idea of what break-in procedure you should go with. Otherwise you run the risk of damaging your motor.
10-08-2008, 08:29 AM
#46
The biggest fear in a new engine is cyl wall scuffing due to rough hone which is used to let the rings smooth the bore. Because LS pistons are so short (strokers more so) the piston rocks which can score the bore. The zinc and non synthetic oil seems to the best bet for break-in.
10-09-2008, 03:14 PM
#49
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It'll be alright. 
Redline right now I think is around 7. It varies with the outside temp and how hot the car is. 55 is on a hot summer day after being in traffic.
Redline right now I think is around 7. It varies with the outside temp and how hot the car is. 55 is on a hot summer day after being in traffic.
10-10-2008, 03:38 PM
#50
What were your bearing clearances?
10-10-2008, 09:44 PM
#51
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No really, thats not good at all. You've got some oiling issues, you NEED to run a thicker oil. The oil film will break down quickly when it doesn't have enough pressure, especially at higher rpms. Thats extremely hard on the bearings, unless you're tearing the motor down every season.
What were your bearing clearances?
What were your bearing clearances?
10-10-2008, 10:38 PM
#52
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That's true to a point, but I believe that he should be ok, provided there's no excessive wear or metal shavings everywhere in the oil. Mine does similar pressure and it's damn near like a brand new car.
10-11-2008, 12:26 AM
#53
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No really, thats not good at all. You've got some oiling issues, you NEED to run a thicker oil. The oil film will break down quickly when it doesn't have enough pressure, especially at higher rpms. Thats extremely hard on the bearings, unless you're tearing the motor down every season.
What were your bearing clearances?
What were your bearing clearances?
They were all within spec. It was almost two years ago since I built it so I don't have a clue, and I didn't write them down. 50 wt would put me off the gauge, at the track 40wt probaly puts me around 70 PSI since the motor isnt heat soaked. It'll be alright. If it makes three years service I'm happy, thats not a bad life for the hell this thing sees. Then it will be time to 10/10 and do it again.
The oil has came out clear everytime with nothing but the norm on the magnet.
10-11-2008, 11:17 AM
#57
The guage is decently accurate, but of course nothing will beat a properly calibrated mechanical guage. If everything is coming out good, then obviously you're good to go. Also seems like you're changing the oil after every track session, this will also help as the oil doesn't have that much use to break it down. But, the 10psi per 1K rpm is a GENERAL suggestion to keep things safe, and if you're getting 70psi at 7Krpms at the track before its heat soaked, then thats all good! 55 on the otherhand, scary haha.
10-13-2008, 12:56 PM
#59
They were all within spec. It was almost two years ago since I built it so I don't have a clue, and I didn't write them down. 50 wt would put me off the gauge, at the track 40wt probaly puts me around 70 PSI since the motor isnt heat soaked. It'll be alright. If it makes three years service I'm happy, thats not a bad life for the hell this thing sees. Then it will be time to 10/10 and do it again.
The oil has came out clear everytime with nothing but the norm on the magnet.
The oil has came out clear everytime with nothing but the norm on the magnet.
lol.