FLT takes the wow factor!!! Lot of Pics
11-17-2007, 08:10 AM
#81
Here are some added photo's of the back half of the trans being assembled. The next step is to get the rear planet assembly ready and get it installed in the case. As you can see in the pictures in post #72 we have installed our low and reverse piston assembly. The next parts to look at are the rear ring gear and the ring gear support. This first picture is of the support. Note the condition of the bushing surface and also the splined area's of this part. They need to be like new in condition. If they are badly worn, we will replace it with another one. Here is the photo.
The next piece is the rear ring gear. We make sure that this gear is clean and free of debris. The snap ring groove loves to collect debris. Some builders never take this apart. That is poor building practice IMO. We make sure to view and clean every part in these transmissions. Also making sure that the gear itself is not chipped or damaged in any way. Here is a photo of a ring gear ready to be installed.
Here is a picture of the two pieces assembled with the snap ring.
The next part to address after cleaning it in solvent is the rear planet. We inspect the gears for pitting, chips and looseness of the pinion gears. See where my fingers are, this is where the gear needs to be checked for looseness/wobble. Here is a picture of the planet.
The next photo is of the planet with the torrington bearing already installed.
Next is to assemble the planet and the ring gear assembly.
I always make sure to lightly grease bushing surfaces of hard parts and also the bushing itself.
The next step is to get the low reverse clutch pack ready to be installed. The wave plate is the first plate that will be installed into the case. This is followed with a steel and a clutch until all 5 plates are in the case. Here is a photo of the pack before it is installed.
Next we will install the planet assembly into the case.
Then the wave plate, steels and frictions are installed.
The following part is an anti-rattle clip. We as always inspect this clip to make sure that it has not collapsed and is like new in condition. Here is a picture of it.
I always grease this clip into place in the case.
The next part to be installed will be the low roller support. Here is the photo.
The next thing to do is to install new low roller and the snap ring to keep it in place.
The next step is to install the low roller race. This race has been modified for use with our FLT beast sun shell kit.
When fully installed this is what it looks like.
The next step is to install it into the case. Here is the photo of the complete low roller assembly assembled into the case.
Next step is to install the snap ring into the case. It is important that it be installed in the correct location.
Here a photo with the snap ring seated in the case and also the low roller seated on the planetary.
Next we will assemble our FLT/beast sun shell package. I will update this thread with the rest of the rear half of the transmission later on. I have a customer coming in from out of state to pick up his unit today. Got to go. Stay tuned and enjoy the photo's. Vince
The next piece is the rear ring gear. We make sure that this gear is clean and free of debris. The snap ring groove loves to collect debris. Some builders never take this apart. That is poor building practice IMO. We make sure to view and clean every part in these transmissions. Also making sure that the gear itself is not chipped or damaged in any way. Here is a photo of a ring gear ready to be installed.
Here is a picture of the two pieces assembled with the snap ring.
The next part to address after cleaning it in solvent is the rear planet. We inspect the gears for pitting, chips and looseness of the pinion gears. See where my fingers are, this is where the gear needs to be checked for looseness/wobble. Here is a picture of the planet.
The next photo is of the planet with the torrington bearing already installed.
Next is to assemble the planet and the ring gear assembly.
I always make sure to lightly grease bushing surfaces of hard parts and also the bushing itself.
The next step is to get the low reverse clutch pack ready to be installed. The wave plate is the first plate that will be installed into the case. This is followed with a steel and a clutch until all 5 plates are in the case. Here is a photo of the pack before it is installed.
Next we will install the planet assembly into the case.
Then the wave plate, steels and frictions are installed.
The following part is an anti-rattle clip. We as always inspect this clip to make sure that it has not collapsed and is like new in condition. Here is a picture of it.
I always grease this clip into place in the case.
The next part to be installed will be the low roller support. Here is the photo.
The next thing to do is to install new low roller and the snap ring to keep it in place.
The next step is to install the low roller race. This race has been modified for use with our FLT beast sun shell kit.
When fully installed this is what it looks like.
The next step is to install it into the case. Here is the photo of the complete low roller assembly assembled into the case.
Next step is to install the snap ring into the case. It is important that it be installed in the correct location.
Here a photo with the snap ring seated in the case and also the low roller seated on the planetary.
Next we will assemble our FLT/beast sun shell package. I will update this thread with the rest of the rear half of the transmission later on. I have a customer coming in from out of state to pick up his unit today. Got to go. Stay tuned and enjoy the photo's. Vince
11-18-2007, 04:26 PM
#82
The next step is to replace the rear sun gear bushing using a wide bushing for the beast sun shell. This is required to add support for the shell and is recommended by the manufacturer. I believe the reason is because the shell is heavier. Here is a picture to show the difference in the two bushings.
I always look closely at the teeth of the gear (bottom) and also the splines that will be pressed into the the sun shell(top). They need to not show any signs of wear. Otherwise unacceptable gear train noise can occur. Here is a close up photo.
The next photo is of the stock beast shell.
Here is a photo to show you what happens to the factory shell. The OEM shell on the left is obviously broken. You can also see that the beast shell is much thicker in this area.
Here is a photo to show you what the oem washer looks like. This washer would normally be installed on the low roller race and would only be used with an oem shell. When using the beast shell it would be discarded.
Here is the photo with it on the race.
Here is a picture of the washer that is supplied with the beast shell.
Here is a photo with it the washer installed. We only use this setup on our level 3 builds.
On our level 4 and 5 builds we use a bearing instead of the washer. Here is a photo of what our FLT beast shell looks like with the bearing installed.
In order to install a bearing here it requires that we install a sleeve to support it. It also requires the low roller race be modified. Here is a photo of the sleeve for the shell.
Here is a photo of the factory race.
Here is a photo of our modified race. It has been decked and bored.
When it is all done we press the sun gear in and this is what gets installed next in our level 4 and 5 builds.
Here is the photo with our FLT beast shell installed.
I will post up some more photo's of the reaction shaft and output shaft differences to complete the rear half install. Feel free to post a question or a comment here in this thread. Stay tuned. Vince
I always look closely at the teeth of the gear (bottom) and also the splines that will be pressed into the the sun shell(top). They need to not show any signs of wear. Otherwise unacceptable gear train noise can occur. Here is a close up photo.
The next photo is of the stock beast shell.
Here is a photo to show you what happens to the factory shell. The OEM shell on the left is obviously broken. You can also see that the beast shell is much thicker in this area.
Here is a photo to show you what the oem washer looks like. This washer would normally be installed on the low roller race and would only be used with an oem shell. When using the beast shell it would be discarded.
Here is the photo with it on the race.
Here is a picture of the washer that is supplied with the beast shell.
Here is a photo with it the washer installed. We only use this setup on our level 3 builds.
On our level 4 and 5 builds we use a bearing instead of the washer. Here is a photo of what our FLT beast shell looks like with the bearing installed.
In order to install a bearing here it requires that we install a sleeve to support it. It also requires the low roller race be modified. Here is a photo of the sleeve for the shell.
Here is a photo of the factory race.
Here is a photo of our modified race. It has been decked and bored.
When it is all done we press the sun gear in and this is what gets installed next in our level 4 and 5 builds.
Here is the photo with our FLT beast shell installed.
I will post up some more photo's of the reaction shaft and output shaft differences to complete the rear half install. Feel free to post a question or a comment here in this thread. Stay tuned. Vince
11-19-2007, 06:58 AM
#83
Here are the remaining photo's that I promised that I would post of the rear half of the transmission assembly. I believe we left off with the FLT beast shell being installed.
The next piece in the trans for us to look at is the reaction shaft. There are two different styles for these transmissions. The first style is the washer style which in this next photo is piece on the right. The piece on the left is the bearing style. I prefer the bearing style and it is a mandatory piece in all of our level 5 builds. Theses pieces have been polished and are ready for inspection. I look closely at the splined areas of these parts to look for wear and must be like new in order to be used. The bushings in these parts are in most cases are replaced. These bushing are still the originals. Here is the photo.
Next we will inspect the front ring gear for wear. The area where the reaction shaft and the snap ring is installed love to collect dirt and debris. It is good practice to make sure that the part is not only good to use but is also very clean. We also want to make sure that the area where the 3-4 clutch rides is in good condition as well. Here is the photo.
The next step is to assemble the reaction shaft and the front ring gear. Note that the bearing and the snap ring have already been installed in it's proper location. Here is the photo.
If you were not using the bearing style reaction shaft. The washer that would be used instead would be installed and greased here.
The next step is to inspect the front planet. Once again we need to look at the splines of the part where the output shaft will ride. Also the pinion gears need to be inspected for looseness/wobble and pitting. Here is a photo of the front planet.
I always make sure to apply some assembly grease to the areas where bushings will ride. Also I will apply grease to the bushings themselves.
Here is the photo of the plant and reaction shaft assembled.
Here is the photo of the full assembly being installed.
Now we are ready to install our output shaft. Here is the photo.
Here is a photo of the output shaft for a 2wd vehicle. It has been polished and is ready to go.
Note the location of the snap ring groove and also the surfaces where the bushing will ride. They are in perfect condition. Here is the photo.
The next step is to install the output shaft and install the snap ring. Here is the photo.
After all pieces are in place, I make sure to grease the area where the front sun gear bushing will ride.
Here it is, the rear half of the trans is now built.
I hope you guy's are enjoying the photo's. Feel free to post a comment or a question here. I will start the next portion of the front assemblies here in the next couple days. Stay tuned. Vince
The next piece in the trans for us to look at is the reaction shaft. There are two different styles for these transmissions. The first style is the washer style which in this next photo is piece on the right. The piece on the left is the bearing style. I prefer the bearing style and it is a mandatory piece in all of our level 5 builds. Theses pieces have been polished and are ready for inspection. I look closely at the splined areas of these parts to look for wear and must be like new in order to be used. The bushings in these parts are in most cases are replaced. These bushing are still the originals. Here is the photo.
Next we will inspect the front ring gear for wear. The area where the reaction shaft and the snap ring is installed love to collect dirt and debris. It is good practice to make sure that the part is not only good to use but is also very clean. We also want to make sure that the area where the 3-4 clutch rides is in good condition as well. Here is the photo.
The next step is to assemble the reaction shaft and the front ring gear. Note that the bearing and the snap ring have already been installed in it's proper location. Here is the photo.
If you were not using the bearing style reaction shaft. The washer that would be used instead would be installed and greased here.
The next step is to inspect the front planet. Once again we need to look at the splines of the part where the output shaft will ride. Also the pinion gears need to be inspected for looseness/wobble and pitting. Here is a photo of the front planet.
I always make sure to apply some assembly grease to the areas where bushings will ride. Also I will apply grease to the bushings themselves.
Here is the photo of the plant and reaction shaft assembled.
Here is the photo of the full assembly being installed.
Now we are ready to install our output shaft. Here is the photo.
Here is a photo of the output shaft for a 2wd vehicle. It has been polished and is ready to go.
Note the location of the snap ring groove and also the surfaces where the bushing will ride. They are in perfect condition. Here is the photo.
The next step is to install the output shaft and install the snap ring. Here is the photo.
After all pieces are in place, I make sure to grease the area where the front sun gear bushing will ride.
Here it is, the rear half of the trans is now built.
I hope you guy's are enjoying the photo's. Feel free to post a comment or a question here. I will start the next portion of the front assemblies here in the next couple days. Stay tuned. Vince
11-19-2007, 11:24 PM
#84
I have to agreee... These guys are top notch. After my rock-on trans had issues, I went to a stage 5 with these guys and all summer, 15/20 bottles, several 10/low 11 sec pass's, and beating the **** out of the car the whole summer, everything is still good to go for next year. Cant wait as the 2nd stage of N20 is going on the car!! :-)
11-20-2007, 08:46 PM
#87
This thread is a great one, but got really long. I've pared out a lot of the non-tech content so that it is easily enjoyed. There are a lot of happy customers of FLT. Please be sure to post up in the sponsors feedback section for all to see. 
We have a lot of stickies already. I'll link this into the FAQ sticky.
We have a lot of stickies already. I'll link this into the FAQ sticky.
11-29-2007, 06:04 PM
#89
Here are a couple video clips I put together for you guy's to see our Dyno in action. This trans is one of our level 5 4l60E transmissions. With the use of this machine it allows us to give you the quality you deserve. It really is a quality control/research and development tool that we use to insure that when you get your transmission it works. These are pulls at different amounts of pressure.
The first one is at a 125psi.
This is a pull at 150psi.
This is a pull at 185psi.
This pull is at max pressure.
The first one is at a 125psi.
This is a pull at 150psi.
This is a pull at 185psi.
This pull is at max pressure.
12-01-2007, 09:31 AM
#90
This was a question from another thread. Thought I would post it here to give you a better understanding about the video's above. Vince
There is a load devise that is attached to the output shaft. With this we can simulate different driving conditions. It basically has a huge rotor with a magnetic devise that increases or decreases the load depending on where we have it set. For the input depending on how many rpms you decide to shift it at would be the input load. The audio in the video does not really do justice for what I can hear with this machine. It is much quieter than other machines that I have operated. When the trans shift you can hear the parts in the unit doing there thing. This allows us to keep the quality control very high. Also In past years I have operated gas dynos. They are very noisy and you really can not here the internals of the transmission like the electric Dyno that FLT owns. Some days I love this machine and others I would like to take sledge hammer to it when chasing a noise. But the idea for it is to test and sometimes we do go after an issue until it meets our standards. We are also looking at the pressures with this machine. Making sure at different duty cycles (pressure swings) the pressure is correct for the application and also that the pressure maintains it's psi during the shifts correctly. With that being said we are also looking at cooler flow and cooler pressure. These pressures are very important for the life of the transmission. With the use of the input and output gauges we can monitor if the transmission has slippage. Depending on the stall of the converter we will see different numbers. Along with that we can check for the lockup function of the TCC. This is usually tested in 3rd gear when the transmissions internals in theory are turning 1 to 1. With the lock up applied the output reading should be the same as the input and in most cases the output is a couple rpms higher. Hope that this has answered your question or has given you a better understanding of what we do. Vince
03-20-2008, 07:05 AM
#93
Sorry for the delay. I am starting the build of the front half of the transmission. This next set of photo's is going to show how we build our input drums in our level 4 and 5 units. This will be a segment on how each and every sleeved drum gets done here at FLT. This drum in my opinion is a very good upgrade and makes this trans much stronger. The idea behind the sleeved drum is that it will keep the aluminum drum from expanding and not allowing the input shaft to float in the drum. We have seen this many times in the past and also in cores that we tear down. Most shops never remove these shafts and for us it is mandatory. This is a picture of where we left off.
Here are some photo's of the drum completely disassembled. All surfaces have been inspected, cleaned and critical surfaces have been polished ready for assembly.
We always pay close attention to the surfaces where the input shaft will be pressed in and also that all splined areas are acceptable. This first picture is where the shaft will be pressed in.
Here is a photo of the area where the reverse input clutches will ride. Also note the area where the feed holes will be aligned and the quality of the surface.
Now we take a look at the inside of the drum. We are looking for bad ridges where the steels will ride. Slight wear marks are ok and in most cases the drum is reusable. Here is a photo of the inside of the drum.
Here is the pieces that will be installed next. They include the drum, sleeve and the input shaft.
Now we are ready to install the sleeve in our drum. The first thing to do is to apply a thin layer of lock tight to the drum and the sleeve. Then line up the lube hole slot for the overrun clutch. Here are a couple photo's.
Now that we have the sleeve in place it is time to put it in the press. In most cases the arbor press will work for the install of the sleeve. If not we have larger press that works as well. I will make sure to support the drum when pressing on the sleeve. This will assure us that it will not get cracked or stressed during the process. Here is a photo of the setup on the press.
After getting things lined up, I use an old bearing race to press the new sleeve on the drum.
Then we press the sleeve down. They go on with quite a bit of resistance and that is what we are after. Here are a couple photo's of the sleeve being pressed on. One from the top.
Another that I got a little creative with. Thought it was a cool picture.
The drum is now sleeved. Here is the photo.
Next we will install the shaft.
Here are some photo's of the drum completely disassembled. All surfaces have been inspected, cleaned and critical surfaces have been polished ready for assembly.
We always pay close attention to the surfaces where the input shaft will be pressed in and also that all splined areas are acceptable. This first picture is where the shaft will be pressed in.
Here is a photo of the area where the reverse input clutches will ride. Also note the area where the feed holes will be aligned and the quality of the surface.
Now we take a look at the inside of the drum. We are looking for bad ridges where the steels will ride. Slight wear marks are ok and in most cases the drum is reusable. Here is a photo of the inside of the drum.
Here is the pieces that will be installed next. They include the drum, sleeve and the input shaft.
Now we are ready to install the sleeve in our drum. The first thing to do is to apply a thin layer of lock tight to the drum and the sleeve. Then line up the lube hole slot for the overrun clutch. Here are a couple photo's.
Now that we have the sleeve in place it is time to put it in the press. In most cases the arbor press will work for the install of the sleeve. If not we have larger press that works as well. I will make sure to support the drum when pressing on the sleeve. This will assure us that it will not get cracked or stressed during the process. Here is a photo of the setup on the press.
After getting things lined up, I use an old bearing race to press the new sleeve on the drum.
Then we press the sleeve down. They go on with quite a bit of resistance and that is what we are after. Here are a couple photo's of the sleeve being pressed on. One from the top.
Another that I got a little creative with. Thought it was a cool picture.
The drum is now sleeved. Here is the photo.
Next we will install the shaft.
03-20-2008, 07:07 AM
#94
Here we are going to make sure to line up the splines for the input drum an the shaft. Notice the double wide spline that centers things.
Next we will use a light amount of lock tight on the area where the feed holes are on both the shaft and the drum. Also put a good bead on the splines of the shaft itself.
Next it will be time to put the shaft in the hole of the drum. Making sure to line it up properly and then tap it down with a rubber mallet or plastic dead blow hammer. It should not go in very far and we are just making sure that there is proper resistance at this point and also that it is seated properly/aligned.
Now we will head to the press. Once again using a large socket to support the drum to avoid any chance of cracking or stressing it. Here are a few photo's of the setup.
The shaft is now installed and here are a few photo's of the finished product of the sleeved drum.
Next we will install the input shaft Teflon seals. These are done by the use of a seal installer and a resizer. Here are some photo's of them being installed and then sized.
I will next do the assembly of the clutches, steels, pistons, spring cages and the input sprag. Stay tuned and enjoy the photo's. Vince
Next we will use a light amount of lock tight on the area where the feed holes are on both the shaft and the drum. Also put a good bead on the splines of the shaft itself.
Next it will be time to put the shaft in the hole of the drum. Making sure to line it up properly and then tap it down with a rubber mallet or plastic dead blow hammer. It should not go in very far and we are just making sure that there is proper resistance at this point and also that it is seated properly/aligned.
Now we will head to the press. Once again using a large socket to support the drum to avoid any chance of cracking or stressing it. Here are a few photo's of the setup.
The shaft is now installed and here are a few photo's of the finished product of the sleeved drum.
Next we will install the input shaft Teflon seals. These are done by the use of a seal installer and a resizer. Here are some photo's of them being installed and then sized.
I will next do the assembly of the clutches, steels, pistons, spring cages and the input sprag. Stay tuned and enjoy the photo's. Vince