Ok, So Three Random Questions.
#1
Ok, So Three Random Questions.
First, I've decided on getting Flowmaster 40's on my Impala SS. I just wanted someone to post the part number for the muffler, cause I'm having a hard time finding it on their website.
Second, has anyone heard of/tried out the Intense FWI from the Intense Racing website? That's the one I'm looking to get, it probably is'nt the best performance wise but it's dirt cheap at $99 I'm not trying to go crazy like I did with my 04 GTP lol.
Third, where the hell is my cars' thermostat?! As dumb as that may sound, I truly just cant locate the stat housing, and I want to switch to a 180*.
Thanks in advance for your help!
Second, has anyone heard of/tried out the Intense FWI from the Intense Racing website? That's the one I'm looking to get, it probably is'nt the best performance wise but it's dirt cheap at $99 I'm not trying to go crazy like I did with my 04 GTP lol.
Third, where the hell is my cars' thermostat?! As dumb as that may sound, I truly just cant locate the stat housing, and I want to switch to a 180*.
Thanks in advance for your help!
#3
im sure Mike (MPGEagle) will chime in bout the intake. i know he has it and likes his. you could send him a pm too if he doesnt.
here is where the t-stat is. im goin to be changing my soon and i heard its about a 30 minute job and not a lot of fun.
here is where the t-stat is. im goin to be changing my soon and i heard its about a 30 minute job and not a lot of fun.
#4
The Intense FWI is a great intake for the money. I have had it on my car for about 2.5 years with NO issues. It keeps the intake temps cooler too. If you buy it I know you'll be happy.
-Mike
-Mike
#7
The front bolt on the thermo housing is easy to get to but you need to get a real long extension or join a few together and snake it behind the front exhaust manifold. If you do this it is no longer than a half hour to 45 minutes to do it. It's pretty easy.
-Mike
-Mike
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#8
I wouldn't bother with the t-stat guys... our stocker is already a 187* t-stat... plenty cool, especially since we have aluminum blocks... you'll be able to make more power with our aluminum blocks being warmer rather than colder....
the lower t-stat trick is/was fine for iron blocks, but we don't need it... our stock 187* t-stat is just fine... don't bother... it's not going to gain you anything...
the lower t-stat trick is/was fine for iron blocks, but we don't need it... our stock 187* t-stat is just fine... don't bother... it's not going to gain you anything...
__________________
06MonteSS / DiabLew Tune
2014 Camaro 2SS/RS - LS3, 6-speed manual, short-throw performance shifter, NPP dual-mode performance exhaust, 1LE front splitter, ZL1 rockers, Z28 Rear Spoiler, all paint-matched Red Rock Metallic, BMR strut tower brace, Cold Air Inductions cold air intake, Apex Motorsports, Inc. catch-can, Custom DiabLew Tune
www.diablewtune.com -- www.diablocustomtune.com -- www.diablocustomtunegm.com
06MonteSS / DiabLew Tune
2014 Camaro 2SS/RS - LS3, 6-speed manual, short-throw performance shifter, NPP dual-mode performance exhaust, 1LE front splitter, ZL1 rockers, Z28 Rear Spoiler, all paint-matched Red Rock Metallic, BMR strut tower brace, Cold Air Inductions cold air intake, Apex Motorsports, Inc. catch-can, Custom DiabLew Tune
www.diablewtune.com -- www.diablocustomtune.com -- www.diablocustomtunegm.com
#9
Huh, guess you're right. Never took the aluminum block into consideration. It's settled, I'll skip the T-Stat. But one other thing, this is to MgpEagle, do you think it would be a waste of time/money to wrap the FWI tubing with heat wrap to keep the air temps cooler? Or would it be of minimal help?
#10
hey Dirty... here's some more info...
I had tried that experiment a couple years ago with the intake hoses and MAF, to try to keep the IAT's down... I wrapped 'em all up...
and while it did take longer for the IAT's to go up, it also took longer for them to cool back down, since the wrap was also holding the heat IN....
so, I just removed the wrap entirely and all was fine and back to normal...
I had tried that experiment a couple years ago with the intake hoses and MAF, to try to keep the IAT's down... I wrapped 'em all up...
and while it did take longer for the IAT's to go up, it also took longer for them to cool back down, since the wrap was also holding the heat IN....
so, I just removed the wrap entirely and all was fine and back to normal...
__________________
06MonteSS / DiabLew Tune
2014 Camaro 2SS/RS - LS3, 6-speed manual, short-throw performance shifter, NPP dual-mode performance exhaust, 1LE front splitter, ZL1 rockers, Z28 Rear Spoiler, all paint-matched Red Rock Metallic, BMR strut tower brace, Cold Air Inductions cold air intake, Apex Motorsports, Inc. catch-can, Custom DiabLew Tune
www.diablewtune.com -- www.diablocustomtune.com -- www.diablocustomtunegm.com
06MonteSS / DiabLew Tune
2014 Camaro 2SS/RS - LS3, 6-speed manual, short-throw performance shifter, NPP dual-mode performance exhaust, 1LE front splitter, ZL1 rockers, Z28 Rear Spoiler, all paint-matched Red Rock Metallic, BMR strut tower brace, Cold Air Inductions cold air intake, Apex Motorsports, Inc. catch-can, Custom DiabLew Tune
www.diablewtune.com -- www.diablocustomtune.com -- www.diablocustomtunegm.com
#11
Dirty,
Just get a heat soak reduction kit to reduce IAT temps. Here are a couple of links.
http://www.casperselectronics.com/st...b054aff8144a38
http://www.casperselectronics.com/st...roducts_id=964
You'll still need to get a grommet for the sensor but that can be obtained at any parts store for 2 bucks. The total for both with shipping cost me $52.00.
-Mike
Just get a heat soak reduction kit to reduce IAT temps. Here are a couple of links.
http://www.casperselectronics.com/st...b054aff8144a38
http://www.casperselectronics.com/st...roducts_id=964
You'll still need to get a grommet for the sensor but that can be obtained at any parts store for 2 bucks. The total for both with shipping cost me $52.00.
-Mike
#12
Oh, just an FYI. Our blocks will still get to over 192* degrees even with a 160* thermostat. This is the lowest termperature our fans will turn on at. Just throwing this out there.
-Mike
-Mike
#13
Hey, thanks for the links mans. But if I've read correctly, don't you have to drill into something in order for you to relocate the sensor? And what would I use to plug up the little hole that the last location leaves? Sorry, I'm new at all this LS4 stuff, I was a GTP guy before I totalled her =(.
#14
The t-stat swap is a bitch, it takes forever to get the hose clamp back on.
I am not a fan of the fwi intake because the piping is longer, our engine needs more high amounts of air rather than cooler air. I like the k/n because its just a large intake and it sounds really good
I am not a fan of the fwi intake because the piping is longer, our engine needs more high amounts of air rather than cooler air. I like the k/n because its just a large intake and it sounds really good
#15
SM,
I am not doubting you but generally cooler air means more dense air yeilding more power. I have never heard of that explaination regarding intakes before. I will say the K&N looks better but I was after colder air temps for the most power.
-Mike
I am not doubting you but generally cooler air means more dense air yeilding more power. I have never heard of that explaination regarding intakes before. I will say the K&N looks better but I was after colder air temps for the most power.
-Mike
#16
our engines do not run that much better on cooler air. It will gain some but the results will be far less than say a turbo car. If you have the choice between increased volume or colder air, i would choose increased volume. v8's need to breath. If we were in an srt-4 forum than i would say do the colder air.
#18
Sorry, but I would have to respectfully dissagree with that. Remember hot air expands and cold air doesn't. 6" - 12" of tubing will not make a difference as long as it is the same circumfrence. My air filter is right behind the opening under the front fog/turn signal light. There is nothing in the way to obstruct any flow IE like a headlight... And no hot engine air since my filter is not in the engine bay. I look at it like this... I paid 60 bucks for it 2.5 years ago off of a member that was selling his GXP. It was the best deal for me a the time and worked out very well. Plus I am sure it keeps my IAT temps down too.
-Mike
-Mike
#20
The intake piping I run is 3.5" which is the same size as the throttle body opening and is smooth on the inside. It has a very slight bend to it but nothing like a 45* or 90* bend. I also run a stainless steel mesh filter as well. For the $ it is a great intake, although the K&N looks a lot better.
-Mike
-Mike