port & polish stock heads or aftermarket heads
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was wondering what you guys would prefer to use your stock heads and just get them ported and to what compression ratio would you guys use i was thinkin 11:1 or just get the texas speed stage 2.5 heads or i was thinking go one further and use the trickflow 235cc heads but then you would have to bore out the motor it says min. bore 4.030 which our motor is less
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keep yout stock heads, they are more than good enough. I would send them to patriot and have them port and polish your current heads. I wasted 1300 on my stage 2 heads do not make the same mistake. They only reason i would get the aftermarket heads would be if we start making close to or over 400whp which will not happen without something like a turbo or nos.
Spend your money on headers or an intake swap. You will be much happier
Spend your money on headers or an intake swap. You will be much happier
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We only have a 3.8" bore (96mm). I'd expect that you'd have to have the block resleeved to bump the bore enough to use larger valve heads. My vote is to P/P the stock heads.
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Unless you run a really big cam, you won't see a lot more power from aftermarket heads compared to a P/P. If you think you might turbo the car, 11:1 is a little much on pump gas. 11:1 is supposed to be OK with N2O on pump gas.
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and whats the most you'd pay for a P&P job
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Personally I wouldn't go higher than 10.5:1, but that's because I'm not trying to max my engine out (I'm going to keep the heads stock because they're already pretty good). 11:1 should be fine if you always run 91+ and get agressive with your fans. If you only run N2O at the track, then you can run race gas on the weekend and you'll be as safe as you can be.
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If you are planning to go turbo then leave the compression alone. If not, 10.5:1 with the stock cam and pump gas would be a safe bet. You can get away with more if you run a bigger cam.
You won't need race gas with.......... 10.5:1 + nitrous = retard timing.
You won't need race gas with.......... 10.5:1 + nitrous = retard timing.
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what head specs should i go with if im doing turbo and N2O and im trying to make this a 400 whp N/A car before I do that though so when i turbo it ill have 550whp or maybe even 600 im also doing a big cam and intake im going big on everything i only run premium gas im doing the headers and true dual 3 inch all the way back exhaust
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I'd highly recommend skipping the 400WHP N/A part and getting serious about the turbo if you want that much power. To get 400WHP N/A, your talking about a cam that is not very streetable and the turbo will hate it because all of that compressed air (and your fuel) will fly right out the exhaust pipe when both valves are open! Turbos generally like stock or RV type cams. Unless you really know what you are doing or have the money to pay someone that does, your best bet is to pick up the turbo kit. Or, you can beef up the bottom end, lower compression, and make silly power with a custom turbo at stockish RPM's. An N/A setup is almost the opposite of a turbo setup, though.
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what head specs should i go with if im doing turbo and N2O and im trying to make this a 400 whp N/A car before I do that though so when i turbo it ill have 550whp or maybe even 600 im also doing a big cam and intake im going big on everything i only run premium gas im doing the headers and true dual 3 inch all the way back exhaust
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First, you are not going to get true dual exhaust with a sideways V8, much less with 3" pipes
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I have seen dual outlet's that people claim are dual's, but they sorta trail off when you point out that if the manifolds merge to a common collector or they share a single catalyst, then they are really nothing more than a fancy split tailpipe system. I also must be misinformed on the DT headers as I thought they merged together at the downpipe instead of having separate downpipes.
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Only if there is an alternate route for the exhaust to go. If both banks are forced to go through the same single path, even for an inch, then it is a single exhaust with dual outlets.
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