Took about 8hrs total with plenty of breaks. I had the stock parts off in about 3hrs and wasted a bunch of time using a hack saw, on my back, with the car up on jack stands, cutting the down pipe. The hardest part was cracking my down pipe loose and trying to get that dam trans dip stick bolt in and tight. Also, the rear manifold to down pipe collector clamp was a real challenge too! My shoulders and forearms are killing me. I'm actually quit surprised at how flexible I am for being near 31
After the install the engine fired right up. I have a slight collector leak cause I had to install a flex tube with some cheesy clamps over the collector and cat inlet. I'll have a shop weld up a pipe on Monday. The engine sounds much more deeper and smooth at idle, it's so smooth, it sounds like it's running 200rpm slower. The stock manifolds sounded more aggressive AT IDLE IMO. As for power, first gear is now useless unless your down shifting and even then, when cruising along at 30-40mph and kicking it down into first (traction control off) the tires go up in smoke, and the engine and exhaust scream. Driving up hills and maintaining speed is much easier now and the speedo climbs much quicker. I'll do some more road tests tomorrow and add to this review.

Helpful info:

-Used 2 qts of trans fluid

-The tb heat shield is unusable with the Cold Air Inductions blue coupler and the tb barely fits.

-I never pulled a spark plug

-Reused the stock manifold bolts and gaskets

-Used lots of PB blaster

-Header bolts have not loosed yet

-Install time is about 6hrs if your good by yourself and the difficulty is about a 6.

-headers and pipes weigh 37lbs.

-Used lots of anti seize

 

Making me wanna freeze my *** off and do it in the driveway a little. Going to get the vband clamp ends welded on after doing some measuring once that arrives next week so I can run a straight pipe when off road or a catted one.

 

So is there a need for a flex pipe to be put in? Or is the set up fine without it? I can't wait to get mine on.

 

Why do you need a flex pipe at all the cat pipe after it cut fits right inside the down pipe
to be welded or can you band clamp it?
http://www.magnaflow.com/02product/02clamps.asp

 

video!!!!

 

The engine will torque and possible break a weld and cause a leak. If I were to be doing this install you better believe I would be adding a flex pipe or coupling.

 

Your exhaust system will flex Its on rubber support bands I checked yesturday.

 

My rear mufflers are on rubber support bands and I have heavy duty hangers as well, because my magnaflow tips always use to hit the bumper.

 

I don't think you need the flex pipe while under heavy acceleration. The catback system
moved out of the down pipe and I had to put it back in to be welded or band clamped. So the entire system obviously flexed.

 

With my mount I don't think there's enough flex. I have the flex pipe anyway so it'll go on.

I rode around last night with open headers. I can't wait to get the exhaust under there and see how the tone changed, as well as let the computer adjust to them and get some power.

 

videooo

 

What mounts do you have? The whole Magnaflow catback systems seems to float on my car with the stock rubber hangers.

 

I used the El cheapo auto parts store, tin flex tube, for exhaust pipe repair. Its working for now, but it's only temp. I had to go this route do to my custom 3" exhaust. I will install a 8" 3" I.D PIPE with some 360 degree seal band clamp. A flex pipe is not need fellows, so don't freak out and don't think that Doug's company went cheap on us. There is plenty of flex in the rest of the exhaust system. I had to push my cat/whole exhaust system back trying to slide on the tube on and it all moved quit a bit. The cat is held into place with two rubber rings and the rear exhaust has hangers that allow movement, plus the headers are warranted so if they do crack, then send them back!

I am in love.... with the looks and new found performance! I get really nervous stepping on in now, cause it's so loud, and I'm afraid there might be a cop around the corner.
I am in need for some serious tuning. I got dyno tuned a few years ago when i added my 3'' down pipe and we put down 258hp at the wheels. Vince, told me that A/F was way.. too lean, which would explain my previous 238hp. Vince, also backed some of my timing off do to K/R. Since the tuning, I have installed a 3" into dual 2 1/2" exhaust and CAI intake, LS6 valve springs with Crane gold race roller rocker kit (push rods, guide plates, studs, and roller rockers 1.8:1) and now headers so I'm sure I'm lean again and could use some more timing. I talked to a couple of tuners, and they said that engines need more timing with reduced back pressure and less with back pressure. Also, My shift points are set at 5900 in each gear and now I can tell that i need about 6200 or more. I can hear the engine bog down when going from 1st to 2nd. I will get it tuned once I install my intake manifold (probably next week, 3 day weekend!)
Thinking of doing a cam swap too, to ditch the dod lifters. Something super mild though so a truck profile might do!!

 

I picked up a really mild comp cam off ebay for like 150 bucks which I could still use 1.8 rockers on. Let me find the specs.

54-450-11
Cam SPECS Hydraulic roller tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range 800-5,000
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift 206
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift 212
Duration at 050 inch Lift 206 int./212 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration 260
Advertised Exhaust Duration 266
Advertised Duration 260 int./266 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.513 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.520 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio 0.513 int./0.520 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees) 115
Intake Valve Lash 0.000 in.
Exhaust Valve Lash 0.000 in.
Computer-Controlled Compatible Yes
Grind Number G3XFI260HR15

Either was going to put it in my car or truck. Might want to go bigger than that though.

 

That's a nice cam. I wouldn't wanna go much bigger then that though.Thanks for the info!
I'm thinking of a single pattern grind.

 

It's extremely easy to over cam a small LS motor...

 

I agree, our cam already pulls to about 6k and with 1.8 rockers, and good springs, make that to about 6200
Gotta get rid of the suck *** intake manifold next though!

 

So do you think we need to do tune or is it ok with out one with no more than the headers CAI Magnaflow catback and MSD wires

 

I'd say yes! Especially since the factory tuned for economy and not for performance, thats why I think we end up so lean once we start modifiying.

 

David is the factory tune ok for a while or will it do damage to anything?