External trans filter installed. New pics!


I installed the filter bracket on the frame rail with a screw and JB weld, and ran the hoses under the frame.

Ditch the 180 fittings, and use some 90 degree ones instead

I used foam to protect the hoses from the curved portion of the frame (not pictured)

Install was pretty easy. The feed line was cut and plumbed into the oil filter bracket inlet marked "IN", and the line that goes into the upper portion of the radiator went into the outlet port marked "out".The hardest part of the job was cleaning up the mess.
Last edited by DavidGXP; Oct 24, 2012 at 12:20 AM.
Not to thread jack, but is a common symptom of a failing trans a noise that's sounds similiar to a rod knock in 3rd at 30 mph with very little throttle applied. I'm thinking something to do with the TC trying to lock/unlock.
Not to thread jack, but is a common symptom of a failing trans a noise that's sounds similiar to a rod knock in 3rd at 30 mph with very little throttle applied. I'm thinking something to do with the TC trying to lock/unlock.
Last edited by DavidGXP; Oct 24, 2012 at 12:14 AM.
The instuctions said to change the filter every 30K miles.
The filter will protect the trans from clogging the radaitor and cooler if the trans blows, and it will also reduce front pump, and torque converter debris from going back into the transmission.
Is it really needed? It's hard to say.. I feel that is better safe then sorry.
I will be adding the GM magnets next week.
Last edited by DavidGXP; Oct 22, 2012 at 09:03 PM.
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Maybe ill bring it in anyway, and hope they start throwing new parts at it to fix the "problem"
Thanks again
The kit was 46.95 from summit, and I ended up adding a quart of fluid.
In fact; I think you could build a kit for much cheaper!
The fluid goes from the trans into the filter.
The filter must add some extra cooling, because I couldn't get the trans hotter then
148* I used blue hose for all return connections now, so the trans cooler was redone as well. I have a snake pit of hose's under my car!


I used PST paste on the 180* fittings and the bastards started leaking. I woke up to a puddle of oil this morning. I used tuff stuff gasket maker on the the new fittings. NOT A DROP NOW. The new clamps are bulky but bite much harder, and the won't rip the hose when torqued.

I can pull this bad boy off in about 10 mins flat now. The lower air dam was all busted up, so I took sections of it out.
No more hitting curbs, or scraping when going up/down inclines.
Last edited by DavidGXP; Oct 24, 2012 at 01:09 AM.
Does the cooler have threaded fittings or are they hose barbs?
Got a part # and brand?
Does the filter housing have to be mounted like you have it or can you turn it say 90 deg? I'm sure its messier at filter change time but I wonder if it would help with the hose routing?
Thanx!
Does the cooler have threaded fittings or are they hose barbs?
Got a part # and brand?
Does the filter housing have to be mounted like you have it or can you turn it say 90 deg? I'm sure its messier at filter change time but I wonder if it would help with the hose routing?
Thanx!


