Rods, pistons what else?
Rods, pistons what else? Thinking about rebuilding an engine for 15 lbs of boost (max). Want to keep cost down so I want to keep as many stock parts as I can.
Besides some new bearings and forged rods and pistons, what else NEEDS to be upgraded to run boost?
Besides some new bearings and forged rods and pistons, what else NEEDS to be upgraded to run boost?
Last edited by LSWHO; Dec 15, 2008 at 04:15 PM.
How much boost can the stock crank handle? I won't go up to 15# right off the bat, just want to make sure it WILL handle it when I get it there.
Is there anything else that needs to be replaced?
Is there anything else that needs to be replaced?
Boost is a measure of how much air is NOT getting into the cylinders because it is piling up in the manifold. You should be talking about track goals and to a lesser extent HP goals. You could run 15psi with stock untouched heads and cam and have it be slower than the average heads and cam car(seen it done with 12psi), or you could do the topend right and have the power to run 9s.
To run that kind of boost will take a LOT of modification, substantial work in the fuel system just to let the engine live and a lot of chassis/suspension/drivetrain to make it vaguely usable.
These are not an EVO that runs low 13s on 20+psi, we have real engines that are capable of massive power if fed boost in a responsible and intelligent manner.
To run that kind of boost will take a LOT of modification, substantial work in the fuel system just to let the engine live and a lot of chassis/suspension/drivetrain to make it vaguely usable.
These are not an EVO that runs low 13s on 20+psi, we have real engines that are capable of massive power if fed boost in a responsible and intelligent manner.
Boost is a measure of how much air is NOT getting into the cylinders because it is piling up in the manifold. You should be talking about track goals and to a lesser extent HP goals. You could run 15psi with stock untouched heads and cam and have it be slower than the average heads and cam car(seen it done with 12psi), or you could do the topend right and have the power to run 9s.
To run that kind of boost will take a LOT of modification, substantial work in the fuel system just to let the engine live and a lot of chassis/suspension/drivetrain to make it vaguely usable.
These are not an EVO that runs low 13s on 20+psi, we have real engines that are capable of massive power if fed boost in a responsible and intelligent manner.
To run that kind of boost will take a LOT of modification, substantial work in the fuel system just to let the engine live and a lot of chassis/suspension/drivetrain to make it vaguely usable.
These are not an EVO that runs low 13s on 20+psi, we have real engines that are capable of massive power if fed boost in a responsible and intelligent manner.
People have pushed the stock crank several. A guy on the fastest LT1's list uses a H+C 355, with a 300 shot dp, stock crank. He runs high 9's.
A few who run them in FI setups push them to 700-800flywheel hp.
But if its going to be making 600rwhp and maybe more i would go forged for piece of mind. And so you dont rebuild it again in the next few months.
This is a crap shoot with your power goals.
A few who run them in FI setups push them to 700-800flywheel hp.
But if its going to be making 600rwhp and maybe more i would go forged for piece of mind. And so you dont rebuild it again in the next few months.
This is a crap shoot with your power goals.
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