LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 02:03 AM
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Well this is my first 4th gen fbody and i must say, dropping the motor is not as hard as i thought. And i dident break anything! I pulled it do do basically all the gaskets, clutch, pacesetter race lt's with 3" magnaflow cat back (wish i could afford true duals), air and egr delete, water pump, opti, injectors, plugs, wires, pcmforless tune, and cai. If my valves look good i might do a cam too But probubly not haha. Anything else I should do for cheap? What kind of numbers do you think i will see with the things i am doing? It's a 1993 trans am with the t-56.
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 03:11 AM
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Around 300RWHP with a good tune would be my guess. What are you doing to the injectors? You should be fine with the stock ones for now. Also, if you're thinking of doing a cam change, doing it while the motor is out would make things alot easier.

You could do the TB Bypass if you already haven't, and throw in a 160* thermostat too.
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 03:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Counted Out
Around 300RWHP with a good tune would be my guess. What are you doing to the injectors? You should be fine with the stock ones for now. Also, if you're thinking of doing a cam change, doing it while the motor is out would make things alot easier.

You could do the TB Bypass if you already haven't, and throw in a 160* thermostat too.
^^^What he said.
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 03:52 AM
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i suggest a new shifter gasket too lol
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 09:00 AM
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Prob end up in the 300rwh range
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 09:10 AM
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since the heads are coming off put lt4 springs on it and 1.6 rrs. while its apart.

also mr gasket headgaskets are super thin and will bump your compression up.
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by ks my ss
since the heads are coming off put lt4 springs on it and 1.6 rrs. while its apart.

also mr gasket headgaskets are super thin and will bump your compression up.
If you are going to put springs in, you might as well put some better springs that those in.

D
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 10:40 AM
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Please do the cam while the motor is out! Its not THAT bad with the motor in the car but its just so much easier while its out. You will regret it later when you are laying under the car with **** dropping in your eyes, yelling and throwing wrenches
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Ihasfip
If you are going to put springs in, you might as well put some better springs that those in.

D
he said cheap and if he doesn't do a cam then why go any better?
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 11:02 AM
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ditch the deCarbons and do the balljoints while you've got the easy access you've have now
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 04:42 PM
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wow thanks guys! I am also doing 17x9.5 zr1's and bilstein shocks. If i do a cam im going to do LE's 224/230 cam with comp cams 1.6rr's, trick flow pushrods, patriot gold extreme spring kit, amd the mr gasket head gaskets. I already have the rr's and head gaskets but dont know if i can afford the rest of the stuff without cutting corners in other places, specially if my valve stems are worn and the heads need rebuilt. Does anyone know how these valves wear? I know that if I go to a higher lift cam and the valves are worn it will kill my valve guides. I will probubly pull the heads to look and maby throw in some new rings (last oil change was about 1/2 quart low). I want to do it all right and not cut corners, I need it to last because im probably going to go to school soon.
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Revelation Z28
i suggest a new shifter gasket too lol
Yes i know lol, it's pretty bad. I'm throwing a hurst shifter on there so it'll get one. And I get 2nd to 3rd super fast!
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Old Jan 2, 2009 | 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Counted Out
Around 300RWHP with a good tune would be my guess. What are you doing to the injectors? You should be fine with the stock ones for now. Also, if you're thinking of doing a cam change, doing it while the motor is out would make things alot easier.

You could do the TB Bypass if you already haven't, and throw in a 160* thermostat too.
Im doing to injectors because I'v got a leaking one. I thought I would just go to the 24lb instead of the 22lb that came on the 1993's. That way ill have a little room for upgrades. And yes, the 160 therm will come with the tune.
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Old Jan 3, 2009 | 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by 93TAJ.C.
wow thanks guys! I am also doing 17x9.5 zr1's and bilstein shocks. If i do a cam im going to do LE's 224/230 cam with comp cams 1.6rr's, trick flow pushrods, patriot gold extreme spring kit, amd the mr gasket head gaskets. I already have the rr's and head gaskets but dont know if i can afford the rest of the stuff without cutting corners in other places, specially if my valve stems are worn and the heads need rebuilt. Does anyone know how these valves wear? I know that if I go to a higher lift cam and the valves are worn it will kill my valve guides. I will probubly pull the heads to look and maby throw in some new rings (last oil change was about 1/2 quart low). I want to do it all right and not cut corners, I need it to last because im probably going to go to school soon.
Great cam choice, that's what I am running and I love it. Get NSA rockers and guideplats and use ARP rocker arm studs.
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Old Jan 4, 2009 | 01:35 AM
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Well i already have the arp studs, but i went with comp cams pro mag 1.6 rr's, and trick flow guidplates, and will get trick flow pushrods and patriot gold extreme spring kit. But lloyd himself told me to get all that stuff. I just hope my valves are good. Does anyone know what my chances are with the valve stem wear? I just hit 100,000 miles and dont want to kill my valve guides if there is any wear on the valve stem. Throwing a higher lift cam will cause the wear ridge on the valve stem to kill the guides. And we all know how cool that would be.
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Old Jan 5, 2009 | 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by 93TAJ.C.
Well i already have the arp studs, but i went with comp cams pro mag 1.6 rr's, and trick flow guidplates, and will get trick flow pushrods and patriot gold extreme spring kit. But lloyd himself told me to get all that stuff. I just hope my valves are good. Does anyone know what my chances are with the valve stem wear? I just hit 100,000 miles and dont want to kill my valve guides if there is any wear on the valve stem. Throwing a higher lift cam will cause the wear ridge on the valve stem to kill the guides. And we all know how cool that would be.
I am running the ARP rocker arm studs, CC 1.6 ProMagnum NSA rockers, TF guideplates and TF pushrods as well. Only difference is I am running the crane dual springs. No one can guarantee that your valve/valve guides are fine, but I think at a 100k miles they should still be good. Good luck with your build man.
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Old Jan 5, 2009 | 09:34 PM
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Thanks! Im goin nuts. I cant wait till its finished! It's going to be awsome to go from a trans am that dident even run right to a trans am with a bunch more power and reliability, and no leaks!
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Old Jan 5, 2009 | 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by 93TAJ.C.
Im doing to injectors because I'v got a leaking one. I thought I would just go to the 24lb instead of the 22lb that came on the 1993's. That way ill have a little room for upgrades. And yes, the 160 therm will come with the tune.
I think I still have my stock 24lb injectors if you want to pay for shipping they are yours...plus I also have a 160 thermo that I took out of my fromula $10. and its yours.. plus shipping of course.
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Old Jan 6, 2009 | 09:21 AM
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Sorry but no thanks, I just got injectors and just wanna go new on evrything, but thanks for the offer.
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Old Jan 6, 2009 | 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by 93TAJ.C.
Sorry but no thanks, I just got injectors and just wanna go new on evrything, but thanks for the offer.
I know how you feel man. I had a used, perfect condition CC503 that I got from a buddy, but I sold it to buy a new one along with all of the other brand spanking new parts for my recent build. There's nothing like having to tear open the plastic before you put the parts into your engine.
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