average price of a rebuild
02-02-2009, 09:32 PM
#1
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average price of a rebuild i am looking to do a heads and cam rebuild and maybe bore it thirty over cause its got 123000 on it so i think its time can anyone tell me what the average price of a build like this would cost. i know everyplace is gonna be different but just want to get an idea
02-02-2009, 10:57 PM
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what i was gonna do is give the shop my motor then tell them what i want so the shop would rebuild it bore it and put it back together, but i am taking it out and putting it back in
Last edited by Chrisd000111; 02-03-2009 at 01:31 PM.
02-04-2009, 10:16 PM
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I went through a reputable machine shop in the area that has a lot of LT1 experience. here is my breakdown off the top of my head:
$150 - used ~65k mile bone stock LT1 shortblock with crank, rods, pistons
$85 - ARP rod bolts
~$1400 - all machine work done to short block. hot tank, misc cleaning, line hone, balancing rotating assembly, file fit rings, checking and double checking all clearances, complete assembly of shortblock. included in this price are some parts such as hastings piston rings, main/rod/cam bearings, a new timing cover with the WP hole filled in by the machine shop, plus some other little things like setting up the oil pump, tacking the pickup tube, plugging the oil filter bypass, etc.
~$300 - heads: very slight mill for flatness, installing my pac1518 springs to proper install height, some bowl port work, good valve job, light port smoothing, good cleaning.
cam, pushrods, retainers, and locks I got from ed curtis for about $600.
bought comp pro mag 1.6:1 rockers for around $200 along with the poly locks.
my set of pac1518 springs were $200 brand new in box.
used a low mileage stock timing set, used a low mileage set of LS2 lifters. running stock injectors.
meziere electric water pump was around $200.
BBK throttle body was $200. I enlarged the throttle body holes myself.
pacesetter headers/y-pipe are about $400
all the gaskets totaled around $150.
I assembled everything minus the shortblock myself along with my friends. its not hard, get the "how to rebuild an LT1/LT4" book and its a cakewalk. if you don't do it yourself add thousands to the total.
I also had some transmission work done. had my stock 4L60E built by a local shop for $900. found a yank PT4000 converter freshened up by yank for $475. trans cooler was around $50. stock driveshaft/torque arm/plus rest of suspension.
it all adds up quick, especially if your or your shop makes mistakes. I got screwed out of $800 worth of work because the first machine shop I went to messed up my rotating assembly and my heads.
$150 - used ~65k mile bone stock LT1 shortblock with crank, rods, pistons
$85 - ARP rod bolts
~$1400 - all machine work done to short block. hot tank, misc cleaning, line hone, balancing rotating assembly, file fit rings, checking and double checking all clearances, complete assembly of shortblock. included in this price are some parts such as hastings piston rings, main/rod/cam bearings, a new timing cover with the WP hole filled in by the machine shop, plus some other little things like setting up the oil pump, tacking the pickup tube, plugging the oil filter bypass, etc.
~$300 - heads: very slight mill for flatness, installing my pac1518 springs to proper install height, some bowl port work, good valve job, light port smoothing, good cleaning.
cam, pushrods, retainers, and locks I got from ed curtis for about $600.
bought comp pro mag 1.6:1 rockers for around $200 along with the poly locks.
my set of pac1518 springs were $200 brand new in box.
used a low mileage stock timing set, used a low mileage set of LS2 lifters. running stock injectors.
meziere electric water pump was around $200.
BBK throttle body was $200. I enlarged the throttle body holes myself.
pacesetter headers/y-pipe are about $400
all the gaskets totaled around $150.
I assembled everything minus the shortblock myself along with my friends. its not hard, get the "how to rebuild an LT1/LT4" book and its a cakewalk. if you don't do it yourself add thousands to the total.
I also had some transmission work done. had my stock 4L60E built by a local shop for $900. found a yank PT4000 converter freshened up by yank for $475. trans cooler was around $50. stock driveshaft/torque arm/plus rest of suspension.
it all adds up quick, especially if your or your shop makes mistakes. I got screwed out of $800 worth of work because the first machine shop I went to messed up my rotating assembly and my heads.
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02-05-2009, 01:15 PM
#8
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thanks guys i was thinking of going with a 355 with heads cam and rockers and then headers exhaust and ram air or just cai. if i do that does anyone have any idea of what kind of power i would be putting out would it be close to 400 hp
02-05-2009, 02:13 PM
#9
What I would do, for the money, have your block machined. Go with forged pistons at the least. H-beam rods would be a nice upgrade if you want to make big power, otherwise, recondition the stockers, and stick with the stock crank if you stay 355. It is very strong and if it last a hundred thousand miles, it's gotta be tough. Go with either a Lloyd Elliott or Advanced Induction heads cam package to maximize the power you will make. An LE2 setup with all of the supporting modifications will put you well into the high 300's if not 400 HP. If you have an automatic, YOU WILL NEED A STALL CONVERTOR for your transmission. That is an extra 500-900 bucks involved, but the car will run much better. Also I was looking on AI's website, and they have a 355 rebuild kit for about $1K, and that comes with Compstar rods (REALLY GOOD PRODUCT), mahle pistons, and a few other things. Here it is: http://www.advancedinduction.com/AiP...sCompStar.html
02-05-2009, 02:56 PM
#10
What I would do, for the money, have your block machined. Go with forged pistons at the least. H-beam rods would be a nice upgrade if you want to make big power, otherwise, recondition the stockers, and stick with the stock crank if you stay 355. It is very strong and if it last a hundred thousand miles, it's gotta be tough. Go with either a Lloyd Elliott or Advanced Induction heads cam package to maximize the power you will make. An LE2 setup with all of the supporting modifications will put you well into the high 300's if not 400 HP. If you have an automatic, YOU WILL NEED A STALL CONVERTOR for your transmission. That is an extra 500-900 bucks involved, but the car will run much better. Also I was looking on AI's website, and they have a 355 rebuild kit for about $1K, and that comes with Compstar rods (REALLY GOOD PRODUCT), mahle pistons, and a few other things. Here it is: http://www.advancedinduction.com/AiP...sCompStar.html
02-05-2009, 05:16 PM
#11
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what will the stall converter do cause i do have an automatic and this is an everyday car that also needs to be reliable and what is le2 i always see that i thought it was a cam
and should i go with the $2000 roatating assymb because that one has the bearing and is balanced
and should i go with the $2000 roatating assymb because that one has the bearing and is balanced
Last edited by Chrisd000111; 02-05-2009 at 05:21 PM.
