crank hub HELP!!!!
#4
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Alignment doesn't matter since ours is just a pulley. I tried ordering a keyed crank adapter from Thunder Racing, but apparently they've been back ordered for months.
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#8
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We don't. The front has a harmonic damper, not a balancer. If you want to be able to gauge the crank position by the pulley arrow, you should put it on like it came off. Also, if any of the holes in the pulley are filled with a weight, it should be put back on like it came off. Some had very minor adjustments made at the factory. (I know, I know, but it is still not a balancer
).
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Is there any documentation with this? I would think it was more for zero balancing the damper rather than the engine. Especially since those that may needed to be tweaked did not end up with a keyed hub.
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#16
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Neutral in the front and external balance in the rear, that's right.
The hubs and pulleys should be neutrally balanced. It was only in the case of "fine tuning" that the factory put any weights in the pulley. That is why most people don't have an issues when installing the hub in any which way. Of course, if you change any of the rotating assembly, it no longer matters anyway.
The hubs and pulleys should be neutrally balanced. It was only in the case of "fine tuning" that the factory put any weights in the pulley. That is why most people don't have an issues when installing the hub in any which way. Of course, if you change any of the rotating assembly, it no longer matters anyway.
#17
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I have a new GM Corvette and a new F-Body balancer. The Corvette has balance holes drilled and the F-Body has metal added (balance weight). Have you ever noticed that the hub and balancer only go together one way? I guess that GM did that by accident? And when they wrote installation instructions in the shop manual it should have said, "If you want you can install it this way"? At 5200 rpm it probably won't make a difference what you do, but if you install a bigger cam and up the rpm's it will probably beat the crap out of the motor over time.
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I'm running an aftermarket stockish type damper now (can't remember the brand name) and turning 7100rpm. I have all the faith in the world it will be fine. I also have faith there are thousands who've run the stock damper, installed it however, ran it past 5200rpm with great success.
I fully believe GM states that just to cover their *** in case of any sort of bottom end problem. I was told by some of the rockstars at Lingenfelter the LT1 was indeed internally balanced in front and externally in the rear. I think if you ask anyone who is familiar with the LT1 you'll get the same response. My engine builder, who has been building LT1's for the last 9 years also states the same. If you'd like to find out for yourself you can call them.
Burtonsville Performane and Machine:
(301) 490-3131
Last edited by SS RRR; 04-01-2009 at 05:40 PM.
#20
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I have a new GM Corvette and a new F-Body balancer. The Corvette has balance holes drilled and the F-Body has metal added (balance weight). Have you ever noticed that the hub and balancer only go together one way? I guess that GM did that by accident? And when they wrote installation instructions in the shop manual it should have said, "If you want you can install it this way"? At 5200 rpm it probably won't make a difference what you do, but if you install a bigger cam and up the rpm's it will probably beat the crap out of the motor over time.