383 inquiry
#1
383 inquiry
Just lookin for information on 383 set-up's.
Background info.
Im lookin to go with a nitrous 383 set up. Have a cc306 and all supporting valve train mods. Grabbing a set of 195cc or 210cc heads. M6 swap. and chassis upgrades (panhard, LCA's, TA, Subframes). I plan on spraying a 150-200 shot. So here are the questions.
First question is, what would you guys recommend for a rotating assembly?
I dont have a set budget but I do wanna keep the costs to a minimum. Eagle has some nice Rotating assemblys but they are really expensive especially when you get into the fully forged kits with H rods. Scat also has some nice kits that arent as much for the fully forged kits. I know the general rule of thumb, "You get what you paid for", but will the Scat RA's hold up as well as Eagele RA's?
Second question. How well can a Rotating assembly with forged rods, piston, and cast crank hold up?
I know generally the HP rating for those kits are 500 hp, but if I go with, lets say ARP L-19 rod bolts, will the integrity of the rotating assembly increase. I.E. Will it be able to handle up to 650 hp with a rod bolt upgrade?
Thanks in advance
Background info.
Im lookin to go with a nitrous 383 set up. Have a cc306 and all supporting valve train mods. Grabbing a set of 195cc or 210cc heads. M6 swap. and chassis upgrades (panhard, LCA's, TA, Subframes). I plan on spraying a 150-200 shot. So here are the questions.
First question is, what would you guys recommend for a rotating assembly?
I dont have a set budget but I do wanna keep the costs to a minimum. Eagle has some nice Rotating assemblys but they are really expensive especially when you get into the fully forged kits with H rods. Scat also has some nice kits that arent as much for the fully forged kits. I know the general rule of thumb, "You get what you paid for", but will the Scat RA's hold up as well as Eagele RA's?
Second question. How well can a Rotating assembly with forged rods, piston, and cast crank hold up?
I know generally the HP rating for those kits are 500 hp, but if I go with, lets say ARP L-19 rod bolts, will the integrity of the rotating assembly increase. I.E. Will it be able to handle up to 650 hp with a rod bolt upgrade?
Thanks in advance
#2
Just lookin for information on 383 set-up's.
Background info.
Im lookin to go with a nitrous 383 set up. Have a cc306 and all supporting valve train mods. Grabbing a set of 195cc or 210cc heads. M6 swap. and chassis upgrades (panhard, LCA's, TA, Subframes). I plan on spraying a 150-200 shot. So here are the questions.
First question is, what would you guys recommend for a rotating assembly?
I dont have a set budget but I do wanna keep the costs to a minimum. Eagle has some nice Rotating assemblys but they are really expensive especially when you get into the fully forged kits with H rods. Scat also has some nice kits that arent as much for the fully forged kits. I know the general rule of thumb, "You get what you paid for", but will the Scat RA's hold up as well as Eagele RA's?
Second question. How well can a Rotating assembly with forged rods, piston, and cast crank hold up?
I know generally the HP rating for those kits are 500 hp, but if I go with, lets say ARP L-19 rod bolts, will the integrity of the rotating assembly increase. I.E. Will it be able to handle up to 650 hp with a rod bolt upgrade?
Thanks in advance
Background info.
Im lookin to go with a nitrous 383 set up. Have a cc306 and all supporting valve train mods. Grabbing a set of 195cc or 210cc heads. M6 swap. and chassis upgrades (panhard, LCA's, TA, Subframes). I plan on spraying a 150-200 shot. So here are the questions.
First question is, what would you guys recommend for a rotating assembly?
I dont have a set budget but I do wanna keep the costs to a minimum. Eagle has some nice Rotating assemblys but they are really expensive especially when you get into the fully forged kits with H rods. Scat also has some nice kits that arent as much for the fully forged kits. I know the general rule of thumb, "You get what you paid for", but will the Scat RA's hold up as well as Eagele RA's?
Second question. How well can a Rotating assembly with forged rods, piston, and cast crank hold up?
I know generally the HP rating for those kits are 500 hp, but if I go with, lets say ARP L-19 rod bolts, will the integrity of the rotating assembly increase. I.E. Will it be able to handle up to 650 hp with a rod bolt upgrade?
Thanks in advance
#4
Hmm that honestly didnt cross my mind. Very good thought. How much engine work would still need to be done if any, bore, hone, mag?
My other question still stands whats the quality difference in Eagle and Scat if any?
My other question still stands whats the quality difference in Eagle and Scat if any?
#5
To build a quality 355, you will need to bore and hone .030" over, align hone the mains, cut/polish the crank, square deck, magnflux, heat tank. Pick up a nice set of Wiseco, JE, etc. forged aluminum 4.030" pistons. Some forged h-beam rods. Some hellfire rings. You'll be set to spray the hell out of it.
#6
To build a quality 355, you will need to bore and hone .030" over, align hone the mains, cut/polish the crank, square deck, magnflux, heat tank. Pick up a nice set of Wiseco, JE, etc. forged aluminum 4.030" pistons. Some forged h-beam rods. Some hellfire rings. You'll be set to spray the hell out of it.
Now flow means everything. I was thinking of pick up some heads as well. I was looking at Trickflow GenX 195cc's because the price just seems right, but the flow numbers are a little depressing. So at the same time I was also looking at AFR 210cc comp heads, but the price was rediculously higher.
Do you think it would do justice to get the bare 195cc heads and use a porting tool to port the hell outa them and install oversized valves? Or would I be better off gettin the AFR 210's and save the hassle.
#7
Now thats what i like to hear!
Now flow means everything. I was thinking of pick up some heads as well. I was looking at Trickflow GenX 195cc's because the price just seems right, but the flow numbers are a little depressing. So at the same time I was also looking at AFR 210cc comp heads, but the price was rediculously higher.
Do you think it would do justice to get the bare 195cc heads and use a porting tool to port the hell outa them and install oversized valves? Or would I be better off gettin the AFR 210's and save the hassle.
Now flow means everything. I was thinking of pick up some heads as well. I was looking at Trickflow GenX 195cc's because the price just seems right, but the flow numbers are a little depressing. So at the same time I was also looking at AFR 210cc comp heads, but the price was rediculously higher.
Do you think it would do justice to get the bare 195cc heads and use a porting tool to port the hell outa them and install oversized valves? Or would I be better off gettin the AFR 210's and save the hassle.
From their website (http://www.advancedinduction.com/AiProducts.html):
100% CNC'd Trick Flow 215cc LT1 Competition Package:
For those looking for a package that includes a brand new set of castings populated with top shelf components, we offer our 100% CNC'd 215cc TFS Competition package. We start off with a TFS 195cc LT1 bare casting that is emissions legal in all 50 states, and CNC apply our proven port, valve seat, and chamber designs. Additionally, this offering is automatically upgraded to the premium Pacalloy 1220 "Beehive" valve spring. This port design is intended to feed extremely air-hungry applications with a focus on area under the curve, wet flow, and combustion efficiency. With supporting modifications this head is capable of producing approximately 525-560 SAE corrected horsepower with a street driveable hydraulic roller camshaft, and in excess of 600hp with more aggressive valvetrain packages and appropriate supporting modifications.
# 100% CNC Ported Intake & Exhaust runners
# 100% CNC Unshrouded & Re-contoured Chambers
# 100% CNC Competition F1/Cup Quality Valvejob (TIR < .00012")
# New Bronze Valve Guides Honed to Ideal Clearances per application
# Additional CNC'd Pushrod Clearancing (required for 3/8" pushrods or 1.6+ rockers!)
# PCD milled to ensure flatness, surface finish & achieve desired chamber volume (58-62cc)
# Genuine Pacalloy 1220 "Beehive" Springs
# Ai Custom Machined & Hardened CrMoly Locators
# Genuine CompCams Machined & Hardened 10deg Retainers and Locks
# Ferrea 6000 Series Super-Flo Valves 2.080" Int/1.600" Exh w/ Steel Jacketed Viton Seals
Note - Exhaust numbers are obtained without the use of a "pipe" or extension of any kind.
Recommended Useage: 355cid - 396cid shortblocks with piston relief/dish volumes of 5cc (Naturally Aspirated 11.0-12.5:1 compression) to 31cc (Forced Induction, 8.0-9.5:1 compression). For 440-475rwhp SAE pair this head with one of our ported intakes, a 58mm or MonoBlade throttle body and appropriate exhaust system.
$2495 - Complete, Assembled, & Ready to Bolt-On
Trending Topics
#8
damn for that price i might as well go with the AFR 227 comp eliminator heads. thats still a bit costly. i was thinking of trying and staying in the 1800 range for heads. i have to limit this because im putting most of the money into bottom end work. hence the no set budget on the rotating assembly.
let me ask you this. do you think i will produce better power and have better potential with the ai TFgenx's or with the AFR 227's?
let me ask you this. do you think i will produce better power and have better potential with the ai TFgenx's or with the AFR 227's?
#12
First question is, what would you guys recommend for a rotating assembly?
I dont have a set budget but I do wanna keep the costs to a minimum. Eagle has some nice Rotating assemblys but they are really expensive especially when you get into the fully forged kits with H rods. Scat also has some nice kits that arent as much for the fully forged kits.
I dont have a set budget but I do wanna keep the costs to a minimum. Eagle has some nice Rotating assemblys but they are really expensive especially when you get into the fully forged kits with H rods. Scat also has some nice kits that arent as much for the fully forged kits.
If you want a forged rotating assembly then I would recommend Callies Compstar components. Eagle rods have a tendency to have a taller bolt profile which can lead to unnecessary clearances and possible water jacket issues even w/ a 383 stroker. The Compstar assemblies are extremely comparable in price to Eagle or Scat, but their quality cannot be matched between the two. If you want a forged rotating assembly then be prepared to spend a little money. If that's not for you then perhaps do as suggested and stick with the stock crank and rods since they are very durable pieces, upgrade to ARP rod bolts and build a stout 355.
#13
Just my personal taste i would like to get a full kit with rings bearing and everything already set rather than get a fully customized rotating assembly. Most likely not eagle knowing they have issues with clearancing and what not.
Scat seems to be my choice. What do you guys think of this kit
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
I was thinking it over and i definatly want to go with a 383. With the 210cc heads and a 150 shot of juice, i should reach my goal of 550hp +/- depending on how good i get it tuned. i wanna run abbout 11.0 to 11.2 at the track.
Do you think this set up has a good chance to realistically hit my goals?
Scat seems to be my choice. What do you guys think of this kit
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
I was thinking it over and i definatly want to go with a 383. With the 210cc heads and a 150 shot of juice, i should reach my goal of 550hp +/- depending on how good i get it tuned. i wanna run abbout 11.0 to 11.2 at the track.
Do you think this set up has a good chance to realistically hit my goals?
#14
Good topend(AI ported GM heads) and some spray should put you beyond that goal on a stock shortblock.
LOTS of people insist on building "performance" engines and fail miserably do to using cheap parts and labor and insisting on "upgrading" lots of good stock parts with aftermarket stuff that is no better and sometimes a step backwards. They often do so without saving any actual money too.
Instead of buying Scat and aftermarket heads you would be much further ahead to buy a Compstar Speedpack and an Advanced Induction ported GM heads and cam setup.
This will cost just a little more on the rotating assembly since the Scat is unbalanced and the Compstar is available balanced and the topend will be FAR better than any of the as cast aftermarket heads.
LOTS of people insist on building "performance" engines and fail miserably do to using cheap parts and labor and insisting on "upgrading" lots of good stock parts with aftermarket stuff that is no better and sometimes a step backwards. They often do so without saving any actual money too.
Instead of buying Scat and aftermarket heads you would be much further ahead to buy a Compstar Speedpack and an Advanced Induction ported GM heads and cam setup.
This will cost just a little more on the rotating assembly since the Scat is unbalanced and the Compstar is available balanced and the topend will be FAR better than any of the as cast aftermarket heads.