WTF: prime the engine oiling system, Rebuilt 355 LT1 motor!
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I just did a rebuild and I almost have the whole motor put back together. I read this somewhere, to make sure to prime the engine oiling system....What the hell does this mean???? Is there a way to check the oil pressure with out actually starting the car? I know the machinist said to make sure I had pressure before firing the new 355 LT1 motor! In my eyes you wouldn't have pressure with out a running motor. Would this be a quick strt just to see if the pressure is there and then quickly turn it off or what? Any inputs would be great! Thanks
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I just did a rebuild and I almost have the whole motor put back together. I read this somewhere, to make sure to prime the engine oiling system....What the hell does this mean???? Is there a way to check the oil pressure with out actually starting the car? I know the machinist said to make sure I had pressure before firing the new 355 LT1 motor! In my eyes you wouldn't have pressure with out a running motor. Would this be a quick strt just to see if the pressure is there and then quickly turn it off or what? Any inputs would be great! Thanks
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What your machinist likely meant was once actually ready to start it disconnect spark and fuel for a moment and crank it with the starter till you see pressure then give it spark and fuel and start it. If everything is in order it should build pressure fairly quickly and not do any starter damage.
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I would not prime an LT1, here is the reason why. You put assembly lube on the bearings and cam, lifters to protect it on startup until it builds oil pressure right?
When you prime it you push all the lube out of where you put it. Then take up to a day(minimum) to get the engine in the car and ready to start.
If you had a conventional engine where you put it in the car, button it up. Prime it, drop the distributor immediately after you prime it and fire it up I would say yes.
I dont prime mine and never have. Just my opinion.
When you prime it you push all the lube out of where you put it. Then take up to a day(minimum) to get the engine in the car and ready to start.
If you had a conventional engine where you put it in the car, button it up. Prime it, drop the distributor immediately after you prime it and fire it up I would say yes.
I dont prime mine and never have. Just my opinion.
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i am with fastfatboy, i would not personally prime the motor. if you coated everything really well with assembly lube, you shouldnt have a prob. i would spin the motor to build psi before i started it up though.
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I would not prime an LT1, here is the reason why. You put assembly lube on the bearings and cam, lifters to protect it on startup until it builds oil pressure right?
When you prime it you push all the lube out of where you put it. Then take up to a day(minimum) to get the engine in the car and ready to start.
If you had a conventional engine where you put it in the car, button it up. Prime it, drop the distributor immediately after you prime it and fire it up I would say yes.
I dont prime mine and never have. Just my opinion.
When you prime it you push all the lube out of where you put it. Then take up to a day(minimum) to get the engine in the car and ready to start.
If you had a conventional engine where you put it in the car, button it up. Prime it, drop the distributor immediately after you prime it and fire it up I would say yes.
I dont prime mine and never have. Just my opinion.
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The machinist put the entire shortblock back together for me and I can see down in the lifter holes and I diffently see assembly lube all over the cam. It's damn near a purplish red color. He never stated anything about priming the engine at all, I just read that online so I thought I would ask. Like I stated he did mention to check for oil pressure. I was thinking about disconnecting my coil wire so I have no spark at all and then it will at least turn over. Will this be sufficient enough to read on my gauge though????? Just don't wnat to trsh a brand new rebuild is all, I'm sure you can all respect that with the amount of money it cost to do these builds! Damn near $3000 just in parts and machining.
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