dirtynorth

I just installed pace setter long tubes on my 95 and 3 of the primaries are rubbing bad on the steering knuckle! anybody else have this problem? any way to fix it?

93cz28

iTrader: (5)

grind the knuckle

litch2004

iTrader: (1)

Thats what i did. I had to cut the safety loops off where the rag joint is at as well to clear mine.

97lt1camaro

iTrader: (3)

Mine rubbed slightly, i left it and drove around with it like that and it stopped rubbing after about 2 days. Haha, probably not the best idea, but it worked and doesnt rub at all anymore.

litch2004

iTrader: (1)

I bet not. Just have a little bit thinner primary now...lol

97lt1camaro

iTrader: (3)

Actually didn't wear it off, just dented it in where it was hitting.

litch2004

iTrader: (1)

i wish that would have been all mine did. Mine are jethot coated and the safety loops on the rag joint dug into my headers i didnt realize how close it was till i went to turn the wheel and then i felt it. O well i will know for next go around.

Dragframe

iTrader: (14)

put a ls1 intermediate steer shaft in.. they dont have that stupid rag joint in them...

litch2004

iTrader: (1)

From what i have hear its easier said than done. It takes cutting and welding to do this mod. My welding skills are not to be trusted with my life!!!!

creepingdeath94

iTrader: (1)

They also have a rag joint eliminator you can use...basically just a round piece of aluminum with four holes drilled in it to take the place of the rag joint. I am eventually going to make my own steering shaft using some "flaming river" knuckles or equivalent and a cut to length splined shaft.

Anyway, it may also be your motor mounts are sagging...I would make sure they are new/replaced before doing any grinding/cutting/modifying. If you must modify though if your mounts are fine, you can grind some yes. Try and take as little as possible and make sure you smooth everything out leaving no sharp points or valley for a crack to start on. I wouldn't take much. If you have to take a lot, dent in the primaries or try and cut/weld them back some for clearance.

I had the same issue with some fitting issues on the Ebay style I bought and had to be patient and do some modifying. it helps having the right tools around...grinders, welder, cut off wheels, etc.

I wouldn't just let it rub though as it could do more than just dent in the primary as it clearances itself. If it is hitting hard enough for you to feel in the wheel, it could bend the primaries back and forth under the pressure of you turning your wheel and eventually put a crack in the exhaust primary. Not to mention it it probably not the best thing in the world to have all the heat of the combustion chamber right out of the head resting hard against your steering joint.

Smokinlt1

I loosened the bolt on the shaft near where it was hitting and extend it till it cleared. Mine was stuck so I had to use a hammer and a punch to get it to move.

dirtynorth

ok so i adjusted the linkage as far as it would go and it still rubbed where it connects at the top on the last primary. So i grinded it down a lot and it still rubbing im scared to grind it down anymore than i already have. Is there anybody who sells ones that are modified for clearance?

sweetbmxrider

iTrader: (13)

yeah, don't buy pacesetters

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

You can't just bolt it on, it's 90* out of sync with the LT1 rack and steering column.

Yup, get some poly motor mounts and I bet your clearance issues will disappear.

creepingdeath94

iTrader: (1)

If you already eliminated your motor mounts as a possible cause/solution, and you don't want to/can't grind anymore material, there are a few companies that make lower profile good quality steel joint...Flaming River is one such company. They can be found online or at Summit/Jegs/etc. as well. I will eventually be making a new shaft with flaming river low profile joints so there is no crush section on the shaft anymore or "rag joint" to be eliminated, etc.

Al 96 Ram Air T/A

iTrader: (1)

The shaft will move (side to side). Under your dash, remove the bolts holding the rubber boot on. The holes can be drilled out slightly larger to provide a bit of movement to the driver's side wheel. I did this for my headers and all is fine.

I'm also using a rag joint eliminator and a modified LT1 shaft. The plastic pins were melted out, and the shaft was lengthened and then welded up solid. You may only need to move yours though. There's a good 1/4 movement...just make sure the top and bottom bolts are loosened up to all the shaft to slide on the mounting points.

ls1adamls1

iTrader: (9)

IM actually having this same issue, i have no been able to gind yet but it seems like i will need about an 1/8 of an inch clearence.

ls1adamls1

iTrader: (9)

so your saying if you were to loosen the bolts under the dash that is holding the steering shaft, then you can actually move the shaft side to side.

dirtynorth

i found out that most of the rubbing was due to the bolt that holds the top of the knuckle to the shaft. I ground down the head and the bottom of the bolt and it is much better but the whole knuckle is still rubbing the primaries a little. Odly enought the safety loops arent rubbing anything. its the middle shaft that is rubbing. Ill try to move the steering column to the side though if i can move it 1/8 of an in it would be perfectly clear of all obsticles. Thanks for the advice.

dirtynorth

just a thought why not buy pacesetters?? a lot of people have them with no problems and im not dumping 800 bucks plus for fully stainless headers