yet another snag sapping cams
08-03-2009, 07:33 AM
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yet another snag sapping cams edit: *swapping cams* damn typo. I thought I would be wrapping up today on my cam swap.. I assumed the push rod length checking tool was in the box with the push rods, turns out its not even tho its on the receipt
its a matched kit from AI tho, how often are the PR lengths off? do I really need to wait a few days to get the tool from them?
its a matched kit from AI tho, how often are the PR lengths off? do I really need to wait a few days to get the tool from them? 
08-03-2009, 10:40 AM
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almost a month now since I drove the Z! I'm def going to bring my heads to LE when its time to p&p
08-03-2009, 11:43 AM
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I would wait and measure just to be safe. If you were just putting the heads back on stock I might risk it, but since you had new valves put in the seats were probably recut moving the valves position in the head ever so slightly.
I know it sucks man, but its better to do it right the first time. See if they'll rush it to you since it was their mistake.
I know it sucks man, but its better to do it right the first time. See if they'll rush it to you since it was their mistake.
08-03-2009, 12:04 PM
#7
I would wait and measure just to be safe. If you were just putting the heads back on stock I might risk it, but since you had new valves put in the seats were probably recut moving the valves position in the head ever so slightly.
I know it sucks man, but its better to do it right the first time. See if they'll rush it to you since it was their mistake.
I know it sucks man, but its better to do it right the first time. See if they'll rush it to you since it was their mistake.
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08-03-2009, 12:32 PM
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they better overnight it seeing as how this wasn't their first mistake! I'm ***** heated right now, especially since I just broke a 1/4 to 3/8's adapter trying to get the block drain plug out
summers half over tho and I've put only ~200 miles on my car, times like these I wonder why I own it.
summers half over tho and I've put only ~200 miles on my car, times like these I wonder why I own it.
08-03-2009, 09:09 PM
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I tried calling them a few times today but no one picked up so I sent an email AND THEN jumped on here and posted the question hopping to get a quick answer since USUALLY people are very helpful. I got an email back from them some time after noon, they said the PR's they sent were 7.125 which are the correct length and that they simply forgot to take the length checking tool off the receipt...which is odd cause I thought your supposed to double check? so does things like thinner head gaskets and non stock valves effect what length the push rods need to be? because ai did not know those things when they sent the kit out. I sent them an email just double checking but I'm waiting to hear back. did I make a negative feedback thread on ai? no, I didn't even post about the mistakes made, what ever they were honest mistakes I'm keeping them to myself, im not trying to bash ai. I simply got a lil snippy earlier cause its 100degrees in my garage and this whole process hasn't gone smooth at all. got anything useful to add?
08-03-2009, 10:42 PM
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I would do the sharpie test if I were you. Use a sharpie marker on the top of the valve, and then assemble the #1 cylynder valvetrain, and make sure the lash is perfect. Then turn the block over 2 or 3 times. Then remove the rocker, and look at the top of the valve. If the markers ink was removed in the very center of the valve, your good. If not, you need to get the tool to measure the PR length. I would be willing to bet the PR's are fine, cause AI and LE put together a lot of packages and even though they are 'custom' cams, most are common to the porting shop.
08-04-2009, 03:46 AM
#12
I would do the sharpie test if I were you. Use a sharpie marker on the top of the valve, and then assemble the #1 cylynder valvetrain, and make sure the lash is perfect. Then turn the block over 2 or 3 times. Then remove the rocker, and look at the top of the valve. If the markers ink was removed in the very center of the valve, your good. If not, you need to get the tool to measure the PR length. I would be willing to bet the PR's are fine, cause AI and LE put together a lot of packages and even though they are 'custom' cams, most are common to the porting shop.
08-04-2009, 07:02 AM
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When checking valve sweep you want no more than .050 on the valve tip and as close to the center of the valve tip as possible. The narrower the sweep the longer your valve train will last and the more power you will make.
I don't think there will be enough of a difference to have to do anything, but whenever anything is changed or modified on the top end such as different head gaskets or milled heads or even a different type of rocker the valve sweep should always be checked.
For hyd. setups I've always just marked the top of the valve and started the engine and let idle for about 10 seconds and then checked.
I don't think there will be enough of a difference to have to do anything, but whenever anything is changed or modified on the top end such as different head gaskets or milled heads or even a different type of rocker the valve sweep should always be checked.
For hyd. setups I've always just marked the top of the valve and started the engine and let idle for about 10 seconds and then checked.
08-04-2009, 11:30 AM
#16
How do you do it w a test spring. I like the other guys method of starting it long enough to prime the lifters, then checking.
Ive never understood the solid lifter thing. Whos gonna destroy one of their lifters, or order an extra one if buying new....
Ive never understood the solid lifter thing. Whos gonna destroy one of their lifters, or order an extra one if buying new....
08-04-2009, 12:00 PM
#17
A test spring is a very thin coil spring. You can use that instead of using a solid lifter. You don't have to make your own solid lifter, you can buy one from Comp or somewhere else. The idea is that even after you prime your lifters, when you rotate the motor over your regular springs will bleed off the lifters a little bit with each turn, making your pushrod measurement inaccurate. The solid lifter doesn't bleed down (duh) or the test spring isn't strong enough to bleed down the lifter. You need one or the other to accurately set up your valvetrain geometry.
08-05-2009, 12:18 AM
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No, as long as he takes the time to adjust the lash correctly and does not colapse the valve. The rocker does not have to sit exactly dead center over the valve, but the further from center it sits the faster he will go through the valve guides and seals.