LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

still waiting on my CSR EWP...

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Old 08-26-2009, 03:23 PM
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Default still waiting on my CSR EWP...

But while i have been waiting (3 weeks) i figured i would get everything else ready. Is there anything else i have to do here or is this it?



I know i have to remove the drive out of the block. That is next on my list.

And does anyone have a wiring diagram as to how they wired their EWP up, also i am really looking for the one where the LED is wired in to come on when the pump goes out.

Last edited by litch2004; 08-26-2009 at 03:36 PM.
Old 08-26-2009, 03:47 PM
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http://lt1info.com/TECH/Temp/2ledmez.jpg

You'll have to install the freeze plug that come with pump into the pump housing. You'll also have to gring notces to fit the pump into the housing.

I wired up an electric pump with ~20 bucks of stuff from radio shack...keep in mind that I didn't use LED's, just a simple relay harness. You'll also have to snip a little of the fan shroud. You'll see what needs to be cut when you put the pump in.
Old 08-26-2009, 03:53 PM
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okay thanks. What size fuse did you go with? And is there any particular relay to use or just one that is the same as the one in the diagram? I'm hoping it will come in soon. They are telling me they are waiting on a seal now. I'm guessing they didnt start making mine till i actually ordered it.
Old 08-26-2009, 04:11 PM
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and just in cause someone is thinking the housing looks weird its because the provisions for the heater hoses have been removed and welded up.
Old 08-26-2009, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by litch2004
okay thanks. What size fuse did you go with? And is there any particular relay to use or just one that is the same as the one in the diagram? I'm hoping it will come in soon. They are telling me they are waiting on a seal now. I'm guessing they didnt start making mine till i actually ordered it.
I think when I got the pump in, the instructions said don't use a fuse rated higher than 15amps, so I used a 15amp fuse.
I used the AIR pump relay that wasn't being used in my fuse block.
Old 08-26-2009, 04:18 PM
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mine either so it looks like thats what i will be using. thanks a lot
Old 08-26-2009, 06:18 PM
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You don't have to remove the drive from the block. It just sits there and spins, no harm done. If you do remove it, then you have to plug the hole. I left mine in.
Old 08-26-2009, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by koolaid_kid
You don't have to remove the drive from the block. It just sits there and spins, no harm done. If you do remove it, then you have to plug the hole. I left mine in.
Who said you have to plug the hole in the block
He already plugged the hole in the timing cover...
Old 08-26-2009, 06:25 PM
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thats what i was wondering??? I removed it for the looks mainly. I dont see the point of leaving another point to leak from if there isnt any use for it. plus it took two second to remove it.

I am also glad i decided to do the EWP while i had everything torn down. After i finally got the mechanical part out of the housing i was inspecting the bearings and one felt like it was about to go out. The waterpump only had about 4000 miles on it.
Old 08-26-2009, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by ss.slp.ls1
I think when I got the pump in, the instructions said don't use a fuse rated higher than 15amps, so I used a 15amp fuse.
I used the AIR pump relay that wasn't being used in my fuse block.
I was looking at that also. As wired, it cuts off after 180 seconds, which agrees with the factory manual. Which connection (85/87?) did you connect your key on signal to? 86 appears to be the straight 12v battery connection, and 30 appears to be the high current output.
Old 08-26-2009, 06:40 PM
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No I mean I pulled the relay out of the fuse block and used my own relay harness that I made. Main power feed from little red block on pass side shock tower to relay (87). Tapped into switched power from ign fuse power wire (I believe it's a red 12ga wire) to relay (86). Switched ground from relay (85) to pass side rad support ground. I wired a fuseable link w/ 15amp fuse in between the relay (30) and the pump power feed. Pump ground to same driver side rad support ground.

I used this diagram (minus all the LED's):
http://lt1info.com/TECH/Temp/2ledmez.jpg
Old 08-26-2009, 06:44 PM
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you said you bought everything from Radio shack right? Is this also where you bought the diodes from?
Old 08-26-2009, 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by litch2004
you said you bought everything from Radio shack right? Is this also where you bought the diodes from?
I said twice, I didn't wire any lights, just a simple relay harness to turn the pump on when it's supposed to be on. The safety feature was me keeping an eye on my gauges...
Old 08-26-2009, 07:16 PM
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O.K., didn't see the timing cover was already plugged. That is what I spoke of.
I have relays & sockets on order, so I'll be set there. I tried to use the AIR relay in its socket, but the wiring was confunded. I'll be getting some in-line fuse holders at Radio Shack, part # 270-1234.
I picked up some leds at Radio Shack. I bought the mulitpack, #276-1622. Just be sure and pick up some resistors as well. Both are cheap enough.
If you use the RS relay, you'll want #275-001, and socket #XX-SRS.
Old 08-26-2009, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by ss.slp.ls1
I said twice, I didn't wire any lights, just a simple relay harness to turn the pump on when it's supposed to be on. The safety feature was me keeping an eye on my gauges...
sorry, i wasnt thinking diode as LED. i was just thinking a regular diode. i got confused.
Old 08-26-2009, 09:21 PM
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Im still waiting on mine too. Called today and they said their just waiting on seals. 3 weeks here also.
Old 08-26-2009, 10:43 PM
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yup they said the seals will be there on friday. last week they were telling me they were anodizing the parts. I'm just glad im not thee only one
Old 08-26-2009, 10:56 PM
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Where did you order yours.

Ordered mine from an ebay store and had it in like 2 days.
Old 08-26-2009, 11:05 PM
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i ordered it from SDPC




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