LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

My 355 is done and should fire today!!!

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Old 09-05-2009, 03:19 PM
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Looks good man, keep us updated

You'll need a tune update, wont you?
Old 09-05-2009, 03:44 PM
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Yes but it should be fine for break in. Larry already knows the car will be back in ASAP for a tune update.
Im pretty sure it was goof off not goo gone that I used.
Old 09-05-2009, 03:49 PM
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1hr 10 minutes untill I can try and button it up!! God I hate work!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Old 09-05-2009, 04:31 PM
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If it runs like it looks you got a bullet on your hands.
Old 09-05-2009, 04:47 PM
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I hope so!! On the stock short it trapped 120. Hope this will go just a tad quicker!!
Old 09-05-2009, 06:32 PM
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good luck firing it up

see you soon
Old 09-05-2009, 07:00 PM
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with the LE2 heads/cam it trapped 120? what gears?
Old 09-05-2009, 08:32 PM
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Looks good man! Maybe catch u at the track next year
Old 09-05-2009, 08:44 PM
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4.10s car weighed about 3500 at the time
Oil is in, coolant is full, belt is on, repainted the rear end, about to slap on the TDs put in the battery, pull the coil wire and injector/fuel pump fuses prime it reconnect, and fire it up. Im 99% sure all is right and ready to fire!!
See you soon Larry!
Old 09-05-2009, 09:04 PM
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wow sounds like a strong runner
Old 09-05-2009, 09:32 PM
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keep us updated on startup and gl with everything
Old 09-06-2009, 04:40 AM
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Originally Posted by AChotrod
Street car! i dont want to chop anything out.
Thanks guys!!!
You don't have to cut anything. It just unbolts. There's just the bolts that hold it around the giant box that sticks into the engine bay and one bolt that is behind the intake manifold.
Old 09-06-2009, 11:18 AM
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It fired up very first time!!!!!! I ran it at idle for 20min with Rotella 15w40 oil pressure was at 75 cold and 60warm temps never even got to 160. EWP FTW!!!! Add coolant cycle with EWP makes for real easy bleeding of the coolant system!
I got a SES light but Im sure its from pulling the evap sensor(I might just put it back on untill I get it retuned) Only other thing was a slight tick from the PS valve cover wich im sure is just the Valves just need a once over.
Ill change the oil today go over the valves and It should be good to go!!
Old 09-06-2009, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Beaflag VonRathburg
You don't have to cut anything. It just unbolts. There's just the bolts that hold it around the giant box that sticks into the engine bay and one bolt that is behind the intake manifold.
Ill look into it. Not sure I can still get at it with the motor in the car.
Old 09-06-2009, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by AChotrod
It fired up very first time!!!!!! I ran it at idle for 20min with Rotella 15w40 oil pressure was at 75 cold and 60warm temps never even got to 160. EWP FTW!!!! Add coolant cycle with EWP makes for real easy bleeding of the coolant system!
I got a SES light but Im sure its from pulling the evap sensor(I might just put it back on untill I get it retuned) Only other thing was a slight tick from the PS valve cover wich im sure is just the Valves just need a once over.
Ill change the oil today go over the valves and It should be good to go!!
Congrats man, 15w40 is the **** LOL, my engine builder told me to run it all the time, but I did for the first few thousand miles and went to castrol gtx 10w40 (another oil he suggested)

Get that tick taken care of and go seat those rings. And the EWP kicks *** for bleeding the system And for the SES light I wouldn't worry about it if it is for the evap code. It won't effect the way the car runs from what I have heard, just kicks on the light, you will probably get a tune soon so you should be ok.

Break in vids?
Old 09-06-2009, 03:02 PM
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Ill try and get it taken care of today and take some vids. I hate that light even if it doesnt effect anything. lol
Old 09-06-2009, 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by AChotrod
Ill look into it. Not sure I can still get at it with the motor in the car.
You can get to it with the engine in. I did it to my friend's car. I took mine out with most of the engine in, but I will be reinstalling it hopefully soon. You have to pull the dash which sucks *****, but you can take a ton of things out of the car to drop weight at the same time.
Old 09-06-2009, 11:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Beaflag VonRathburg
You can get to it with the engine in. I did it to my friend's car. I took mine out with most of the engine in, but I will be reinstalling it hopefully soon. You have to pull the dash which sucks *****, but you can take a ton of things out of the car to drop weight at the same time.
I plan on pulling the engine side, but I'm keeping the heater so I can defrost the windshield and not freeze when it gets cold here in wisconsin (no winter driving, but in the fall it gets chilly)

Whats under the dash that adds more weight besides the heater side of the box?
Old 09-07-2009, 03:12 AM
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^ The black mat that covers the firewall, the card board pad that is under dash pad, the heater core, ducting, extranious wiring for all of that related components, the piece of carboard style padding that covers the front of the trans tunnel where it meets the dash. There's probably a good 25-30 lbs in crap that you can remove other than the actual giant box itself. If you get that thing out of there you'll have so much extra space to work on the car.

If I didn't live in Florida I wouldn't have AC. I stayed with my Grandma in Connecticut for a month in June and I wouldn't have AC in my car if I lived up there. Down here you can't live without it.
Old 09-07-2009, 10:43 AM
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I was looking at it lastnight and definitly need to remove the dash or chop it off from the inside of the engine bay. It would save some good weight but ill leave it for now. Its already getting a little chilly up here and I need the heat. AC is long gone already


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