Weird oil question?
10-05-2009, 06:33 PM
#21
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dude your plain *** stupid. You can switch between synthetic oil and conventional oil all day long. Oil doesn't break down unless you get it near it's flashpoint. The add packs wear out over time, and contamination from the combustion chamber is the cause for needing to change oil. It's quite obvious you have no idea what you're talking about, so it's best for you not to even reply to this thread...
to the OP does it smoke when you beat on it when it's hot (besides WOT)? I hardly ever used to beat on my LT1 until oil temps were 180*. If if goes away when hot, then the rings are probably the point to blame, but could also be the valve stem seals, but usually those cause blue smoke on immediate startup.
to the OP does it smoke when you beat on it when it's hot (besides WOT)? I hardly ever used to beat on my LT1 until oil temps were 180*. If if goes away when hot, then the rings are probably the point to blame, but could also be the valve stem seals, but usually those cause blue smoke on immediate startup.
10-05-2009, 07:00 PM
#22
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+1. To add to the point behind the whole story, do alittle research on mobil1. It's not even a full synthetic. Penn. platnium, Amsoil, and Royal Purple are the closest you'll get. This subject was beat to death on the mazdas247.com forum, most people stayed away from the Royal purple and Amsoil just because WHEN the motor did eventually blow, if the dealer did an oil analysis it would throw up a red flag and boom voided warranty (they always found a way anyways) but since none of us have to worry about that i'd suggest dumping the mobil and switchin to Pennsoil or RP for a TRUE synthetic
Another WTF>.. anything group IV V, or VI is a synthetic when it comes to basestocks. There is nothing "being as close as you can get". It's argued the 5 and 10w30 M1 are a GRP III, but none have offered 100% proof. The dealer doing an UOA won't show what kind of oil is in the car. No such test.. That test will show what viscosity the motor oil is, and if you had the wrong viscosity in there, and they can show that's the cause of failure then yes they can deny warranty.. Not the BS you just mentioned.
RP is good, but way overpriced for what it is. M1, PP, Amsoil, Syntec, Synpower are all good oil.
OP when's the last time you replaced your PCV valve, and inspected your PCV hose assembly? How about the fresh air hose on the pass side valve cover? Ever Clean the TB?
10-05-2009, 07:49 PM
#23
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^When you first fire it up it will puff a little bit but if your not standing by the exhaust tip you don't even see it. If it just sits there and idles it will quite after just a second or so when its cold. If you get on it cold it will smoke. When its hot it will only smoke at wot, but then again, it only does it every so often. Sometimes at wot it doesn't smoke at all. I'm just confused because I just had this thing down at the track beating the **** out of it two weekends ago and not one bit of smoke. Changed the oil and here's what I ended up with. Now, after the track I drove this thing 60 miles a day for a week to and from school, and work without a single problem! Just seems wierd to me!
The smoke on cold start is absolutely valve stem seals.
And no, switching from conventional to synthetic won't hurt a thing, assuming a good, clean engine to start with. At worst, you'll see a leak or two that wasn't there before.
10-05-2009, 08:45 PM
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Another WTF>.. anything group IV V, or VI is a synthetic when it comes to basestocks. There is nothing "being as close as you can get". It's argued the 5 and 10w30 M1 are a GRP III, but none have offered 100% proof. The dealer doing an UOA won't show what kind of oil is in the car. No such test.. That test will show what viscosity the motor oil is, and if you had the wrong viscosity in there, and they can show that's the cause of failure then yes they can deny warranty.. Not the BS you just mentioned.
RP is good, but way overpriced for what it is. M1, PP, Amsoil, Syntec, Synpower are all good oil.
OP when's the last time you replaced your PCV valve, and inspected your PCV hose assembly? How about the fresh air hose on the pass side valve cover? Ever Clean the TB?
RP is good, but way overpriced for what it is. M1, PP, Amsoil, Syntec, Synpower are all good oil.
OP when's the last time you replaced your PCV valve, and inspected your PCV hose assembly? How about the fresh air hose on the pass side valve cover? Ever Clean the TB?
10-05-2009, 08:57 PM
#25
Running rich might be a possibility. Its hard to tell in the rear view mirror. Also, I just resealed the intake not but 3 weeks ago and I noticed it was pretty well oil soaked. Not standing oil but was clearly oily. I say this because 6k miles ago the intake was dipped in cleaner and was absoluetly spotless so I know there was no oil in there. The pcv was replaced when I did the intake 6k miles ago (march 09). Oh yea, this smoking when it was cold has only happened once and I've been scared to start it since! Don't know if that helps any!?!?
10-05-2009, 10:08 PM
#26
You can't go back once you go to syn. Ppl obviously don't the differences. Look up synthetic oils and see what they do for your motor then look up conventional oil and see what it does for your motor better yet tear two apart and see the differences.
Ok so here is why syn oil doesn't break down as fast and the molecules are smaller in syn so it gets places where con can't. So therefore syn lasts longer and is smoother lubing..not only that bu the molecules are different style and your motor has adapted to them. You can't just swap between the two and expect it to just be ok. Well you can but your motor won't last for ****.
For the op I wouldn't listen to the guy telling you it's ok. He must work at jiffy lube!! And yes swapping can take out more than just seals and rings. It can even cause your bottom end to go out with low oil pressure because your pump goes to **** or something.
Ok so here is why syn oil doesn't break down as fast and the molecules are smaller in syn so it gets places where con can't. So therefore syn lasts longer and is smoother lubing..not only that bu the molecules are different style and your motor has adapted to them. You can't just swap between the two and expect it to just be ok. Well you can but your motor won't last for ****.
For the op I wouldn't listen to the guy telling you it's ok. He must work at jiffy lube!! And yes swapping can take out more than just seals and rings. It can even cause your bottom end to go out with low oil pressure because your pump goes to **** or something.
10-06-2009, 01:30 AM
#27
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ok if you say so. A uoa can detect fuel dilution, dirt contamination, antifreeze contamination, excessive bearing wear, and (drumroll) MISAPPLICATION OF LUBRICANTS. aka the additives found in the high end RACE LUBRICANTS which contain metals such as boron, magnesium, calcium, phosphorous, and zinc.They are ALL overpriced, Nothing i mentioned was bs. Anychance that the smoke your seeing is just condensation burn off in the exhaust from the changing of seasons and temps. If you decide not to chang it back to your original oil just keep and eye on it to monitor any abnormal burnoff.
Dude HIGH END RACE LUBRICANTS more often than not are not API rated oils, and therefore DO NOT BELONG in a daily driven vehicle. Most Amsoil, Royal Purple, etc do not fit into that niche. We're not talking VR1 (non street legal) or Joe Gibbs oil or something.
Again Sorry, most all motor oils contain Zinc, Calcium, etc. Unless you tell someone the oil they are testing, a UOA will not point out what it is. Granted if they asked you for a virgin sample of your oil, they could get on BITOG and find a match, but I doubt a dealer would do that. END OF STORY.
OMG look at all the metal in this HIGH END Race Lube.. OHH wait it's just Mobil Clean 5000 10w30 from my wife's car. Hey look even 1ppm of TitaniuM!
Last edited by buffman; 10-06-2009 at 01:41 AM.
10-06-2009, 06:13 PM
#28
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Trust me mazda has gone as far as to siting cars on cardomain and if that vehicle comes into the dealer for naything that could possibly be attributed to any of the mods shown they will pull the warranty plug. They are ruthless. I believe the main reason for it is because they know they 2.3 DISI turbo engines are flawed in that the balance shaft assembly starves the #3 piston for oil causing excessive friction, rod damage and eventually zoom zoom boom. Trust me i know from experience. #3 right through the block. While i agree that MOST dealers wouldn't waste their time for the extra anylisis, unfortunately mazda will and have. The main reason i got Rid of mine! Anyways i agree with you on everything else. OP sounds like it's your rings, do a cylinder compression/leakdown test and an intake vacuum test and you'll find the culprit my guess is rings.
10-06-2009, 07:41 PM
#29
Well I did a compression test when I installed the cam back in march of this year. Was good then and haven't had any sort of mechanical failure that would clue me to that. Also, I drove the car today...not a hint of smoke and ran like a champ!
