street twin users, balance and vibration...
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so im probably gonna wind up looking like an idiot here but whatever, new engine got put together with a street twin from summit..
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MCL-64022-00-07/
to be exact, in the notes it says special internal balancing.. i had my engine internally balanced before i purchased this clutch... i was under the assumption the internal balancing meant this clutch kit was neutral balance (???) , anyways, the paperwork with the clutch kit says the assembly is not pre balanced and to get it balanced but silly me thought it was possibly just generic clutch kit paperwork that got included in all the kits... well long story short my new engine has a vibration at 3200 rpm thats pretty wicked from what ive been texted...
also reports of a rms oil seepage... SO... saturday i am going to pull the trans, balance the clutch kit, and fix the rms...
my question is, did you balance your street twin or no? the paperwork says get it balanced to match the old flywheel/clutch.. i still have those laying around here... should i get the street twin neutral balanced or balanced to match the old flywheel/clutch or should i take the paperwork for my engines balancing and have them do the flywheel off of it? is that even possible?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MCL-64022-00-07/
to be exact, in the notes it says special internal balancing.. i had my engine internally balanced before i purchased this clutch... i was under the assumption the internal balancing meant this clutch kit was neutral balance (???) , anyways, the paperwork with the clutch kit says the assembly is not pre balanced and to get it balanced but silly me thought it was possibly just generic clutch kit paperwork that got included in all the kits... well long story short my new engine has a vibration at 3200 rpm thats pretty wicked from what ive been texted...
also reports of a rms oil seepage... SO... saturday i am going to pull the trans, balance the clutch kit, and fix the rms...
my question is, did you balance your street twin or no? the paperwork says get it balanced to match the old flywheel/clutch.. i still have those laying around here... should i get the street twin neutral balanced or balanced to match the old flywheel/clutch or should i take the paperwork for my engines balancing and have them do the flywheel off of it? is that even possible?
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it should be balanced. look on the back of the flywheel look for the little weight attached by 2 screws. remove it and it should be netural then. atleast mine was. with the weight it is close to the factory flywheel but not dead on. since all lt1s were slightly different. since your internal balanced now, you will have to remove that weight and then should be good to go.
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ugh. removed said weight, car still has vibe... i looked over my engine balancing sheet... seems they balanced MY new engine build stuff with my stock flywheel (didnt have s/t at time...) and that thing still has the big weight on it. i guess i need to take both flywheels to a machine shop and get them matched...
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yeah thats your only option. so they charged you to balance your motor and did it to the stock flywheel? thats nuts they should have changed the flywheel. when i first got my st i ran it on the factory bottom end. it was only off 2 grams from my factory flywheel. he told me it was neutral without the weight. thats sucks to find that info about yours, after the fact you put it back together. well good luck on getting it back apart and back together.
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i was told by my supplier that mcleod sends them balanced already and they are good to bolt on from the box?? i havent installed mine yet but this is giving me second thoughts... i dont think my paperwork says anything about getting it balanced though...
edit: just read through the instructions again and it does say at the bottom to match it to the old flywheel... one problem... i no longer have my old flywheel (mistake by me)... what do you guys recommend. This is not going on a stock motor... it is going on a completely new rebuilt motor with all new rotating assembly and everything (383).. should i just take it to the machine shop and have them balance it for me?
edit: just read through the instructions again and it does say at the bottom to match it to the old flywheel... one problem... i no longer have my old flywheel (mistake by me)... what do you guys recommend. This is not going on a stock motor... it is going on a completely new rebuilt motor with all new rotating assembly and everything (383).. should i just take it to the machine shop and have them balance it for me?
Last edited by transmaro93; 10-24-2009 at 09:32 AM.
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If you are absolutely positive your flywheel is neutral balanced then yes, take the PP to a machine shop and have them at least spin it to see if it too is neutral balanced. If it is then you have larger problems.
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its not neutral balanced... there is a huge weight on the back of the flywheel... iv been reading posts on mcleods tech forum and if that weight is removed then it is neutral balanced... what do you make of that? mcleods registration is disabled on their forum so i cant sign up to ask a question... ill probably call them on monday to ask them to make sure, but just trying to get opinions
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its not neutral balanced... there is a huge weight on the back of the flywheel... iv been reading posts on mcleods tech forum and if that weight is removed then it is neutral balanced... what do you make of that? mcleods registration is disabled on their forum so i cant sign up to ask a question... ill probably call them on monday to ask them to make sure, but just trying to get opinions
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as for the guy asking. mine was very close but you have other issues since you don't have the flywheel to go by.
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If I understand the OP he had his "new" motor balanced using the "stock" external balanced FW....so any FW now needs to be balanced and positioned on the crank like the one that motor was balanced with.
Hindsight is 20/20 but obviously it would have been better to balance the new engine rotateing assembly without any flywheel as "neutral"...then just use a "neutral" balance FW...which is what I did.
On each clutch swap I do I either get my FW resurfaced or replace with a new "neutral" balance one THEN I have the PP balanced with the new neutral balance FW. last time the shop took 1.5 grms from my PP
Hindsight is 20/20 but obviously it would have been better to balance the new engine rotateing assembly without any flywheel as "neutral"...then just use a "neutral" balance FW...which is what I did.
On each clutch swap I do I either get my FW resurfaced or replace with a new "neutral" balance one THEN I have the PP balanced with the new neutral balance FW. last time the shop took 1.5 grms from my PP
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If I understand the OP he had his "new" motor balanced using the "stock" external balanced FW....so any FW now needs to be balanced and positioned on the crank like the one that motor was balanced with.
Hindsight is 20/20 but obviously it would have been better to balance the new engine rotateing assembly without any flywheel as "neutral"...then just use a "neutral" balance FW...which is what I did.
On each clutch swap I do I either get my FW resurfaced or replace with a new "neutral" balance one THEN I have the PP balanced with the new neutral balance FW. last time the shop took 1.5 grms from my PP
Hindsight is 20/20 but obviously it would have been better to balance the new engine rotateing assembly without any flywheel as "neutral"...then just use a "neutral" balance FW...which is what I did.
On each clutch swap I do I either get my FW resurfaced or replace with a new "neutral" balance one THEN I have the PP balanced with the new neutral balance FW. last time the shop took 1.5 grms from my PP
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its not neutral balanced... there is a huge weight on the back of the flywheel... iv been reading posts on mcleods tech forum and if that weight is removed then it is neutral balanced... what do you make of that? mcleods registration is disabled on their forum so i cant sign up to ask a question... ill probably call them on monday to ask them to make sure, but just trying to get opinions
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ok... i dropped by the machine shop today.... and asked them... they said the crank was neutral balanced so that means i need a neutral balanced fw... iv read posts on mcleods website that say if you take the weight off the back then it is neutral... so i am going to do that and give the machine shop the flywheel to check.... now my machinist said the PP assembly should have been nuetral balanced from when it was manufactured so he said to only bring in the FW... i think im getting on the right track here... as for the guy who would let me use his log in on mcleod... thank you but i dont think it is needed now.... you guys think if i get just the FW neutral balanced i should be ok with the PP the way it is?