Been a while since the car has ran. Pulled the dynaspark off tonight and put my old GM opti back on. Pulled it apart and cleaned up all the contacts that were corroded.

Put it on and after a little cranking, the car fired and cleared it throat. Had a bunch of fuel built up in the cyls from the dyna not firing.

Anywho, gonna send in the DS and see what they say.

Is it possible to suck oil into the opti? My opti drive seal was leaking a tad, and the dyna feels like it has resistance when turning the rotor... Like it could "possibly" be full of oil.

 

"Full of oil"... dunno about that. But it is absolutely possible to get oil in your opti. I had an opti failure a while back caused by both oil and coolant getting into it. Apparently I had a slight leak on my water pump and timing cover and since my unit was the vented style, it sucked it in through the opti-pigtail plug in. The seal that goes around the long connector insert was old and needed to be replaced but I failed to notice that upon reassembly of the motor.

 

get one from thepartsladi on ebay, my rotor EXPLODED when the bearing went and they replaced it even with me opening it to locktite the rotor screws and putting silicone around it to seal it. they have a 2 year warranty

 

^^^ If he can get the Dynaspark warrantied then he might as well do it instead of buying a new unit. All in all it does have improvements over the stocker, but obviously since he had problems with it it's not bullet proof.

 

Well it does "live" but I have a few problems.

1 is it id still missing. Which is no big surprise, I knew the opti was having trouble when I put it on there. Figure it was worth a shot tho.

2 is the valves are rattling like a mother... What could cause this? I really dont see how it could he opti related. It is popping and backfiring cause the optis ****, but the valves rattling? WTF could that be?

I have put fresh gas in it 3/4 tank full and I have relashed the valves on both sides. There were several on both sides that were loose. After resetting the valves it picked up a lot of power, but they are still rattling under load.

Only does it at low rpm / high load...

Anyone had anything like this happen? Were putting a brand new autozone opti on it tomorrow to run until the dyna gets fixed.

So that should cure the missing / popping / backfiring. But the valves rattling I dunno

Could the sever popping and backfiring from when the dyna was going out have fucked up the valves sonehow?

 

I hate your car!!!And my damn knecks hurts!

 

Oh ya, sorry about that lolz :-/

I almost killed this guy ^^

 

Ah oh well it's just a kneck, it will be sore for a couple days lol.. At least we got it to run some what better, but adjusting the valves first in the parking lot and then out in the middle of now where wasn't to much fun but you got the job done, to bad the pink honda broke.

 

Ya. I'd rather be 100% before I raced him tho.

Hopin the opti swap tomorrow sheds some light on this valve rattling ****...

Wonder if the optical sensor is fubar and could be advancing timing in the low rpms? Only does it below 3500ish then clears up and pulls good (except for the opti breaking up a little).

 

Does the noise go away after it warms up?

My car did the same when I first turned it up, when it warmed up or above 2000rpm the sound went away. I flushed out the oil and put in new oil and never heard it ever again.

 

Nope, doesnt go away

 

What do you mean valves rattling?

 

Sounds like the timing is too advanced if you are talking about pinging/detonation/spark knock (everybody seems to call it something different). I see you have a 94, it probably slid in a tooth or two off.

 

How long did it run with the valvetrain rattling? I know you said the car hadn't been started in awhile.. Did you soak the valvetrain (all contact points including roller bearings and trunions) with oil? The rockers are the last point of lubrication.

 

I made sure not to force it in the cam gear. It slid in very easy so I doubt its a tooth off. It will only go one way ya know...

Brian I didnt soak the valve train but oil pressure was up before it started and when I pulled the vc's to reset the valves the topend is getting plenty of oil.

What else could cause this?

 

One or more rockers could not be getting oil due to clogged or gunked up pushrods.

 

Nope, checked that too. When I was adjusting valves they were ALL getting oil up the pushrods.

This isn't a valvetrain loud sewing machine noise. This is actual valves rattling, preignition, detonation, etc etc

 

If they are rattling then you may want to take some of the spring off and check the valve guides (measure for play). If not then, no offense, but perhaps the valves aren't adjusted correctly?
Get a leakdown down if possible.

 

You guys arent understanding whats going on here. IT IS NOT VALVETRAIN NOISE.

I shouldn't have used the terminology "valves rattling", that's just what I call it.

Let's go with spark knock.

Below 3500 RPM under a load, it has spark knock.

No offense taken on the valve adjustment. Only reason I know that cant be the case is the setup has a couple thousand miles on it after I set them, and hot relashed them once again and had ZERO problems. The ONLY thing that changed was my pulling off the dyna spark and putting back on my old GM opti, that I cleaned up the contacts on...

FWIW though I back the rockers all the way off, wait til the opposing valve for that cylinder starts to go down to make sure I'm on the base circle. Slowly tighten up the nut until I cant easily spin the pushrod (zero lash) and go exactly 1/2 turn past that. The nuts have 6 flats on them, and I count 1 at a time and turn it 3 flats, and lock down the allen set screw.

That should do the trick right? Again, I have a very hard time believing this is valvetrain adjustment / setup related. Pretty sure what I'm hearing is happening in the cylinder... spark knock.

Could the optical sensor be messed up and advancing timing way too much?

Thanks for all the help and ideas guys. Please keep them coming. If I haven't already eliminated it I will go do so!

I have also unhooked the IAT sensor, no change. Unhooked MAF, no change. Checked for vacum leaks (had a small one I was using for the vent on the DS I had to plug) no change. Triple checked firing order. Fresh gas. Drove it easy, railed on it to "blow the soot out" no change.

 

On a separate note, did you get ahold of DS and talk to them about your opti?