HELP PLEASE!! With # 7 Plug Wire
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 159
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From: Ocala,FL
HELP PLEASE!! With # 7 Plug Wire Yes i Searched but didnt see this issue addressed...Like it says i did spark plugs and wires tonight... Had a Hella time routing the #7 wire in the channel.. i thought i had it in.. but i was only in towards the end then was out of the channel around the flange ares.. causing it to burn up.. any tips on getting it in the channel... cant see it and it feels like its tight against the block in a few sopts. to tight to slip it in.. Help if you can.. also couldnt get #8 plug out.. any tips? this is my second time doing plugs on a lt1 did it many years ago and was able to get them all...not this time...
THANKS!!
THANKS!!
If you cant see it you need a flashlight lol. even with exhaust manifolds and light you can see every plug under the car and you have to make sure you hear a click when you put the wire on. If you want it in the metal protector along the head you have to slide it in there or loosen it up with a 10mm nut I believe that holds it against the block. That will allow you to slide it in there and tighten it back up when your done.
Yeah, #7 wire was near impossible for me. I pushed the wire through loosely to get it on the spark plug, then reached in with one finger and felt my way along the wire pushing down on it and got it in best I could. I had to keep pushing all along it until I finally started feeling it push into the channel.
Sorry, I know thats not a great description.
#8 plug, some people remove it from bottom by removing the starter and going up through that hole.
I removed it by putting a light on the floor underneath the area where the plug is. I layed on top of the engine (chest on the intake) and felt down along the old spark plug wire to get an idea where it was. I pulled the old wire, then started feeling around with the socket on an extension until I felt it slide onto the plug.
Hope that helps a little. Have plenty of neosporin and bandaids when the job is done.
Sorry, I know thats not a great description.
#8 plug, some people remove it from bottom by removing the starter and going up through that hole.
I removed it by putting a light on the floor underneath the area where the plug is. I layed on top of the engine (chest on the intake) and felt down along the old spark plug wire to get an idea where it was. I pulled the old wire, then started feeling around with the socket on an extension until I felt it slide onto the plug.
Hope that helps a little. Have plenty of neosporin and bandaids when the job is done.
TECH Regular
Joined: May 2007
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Go with a set of O.T.V.C. wires next time. As for the #8 plug, like it was said earlier, some plugs are easier to get from under the car. I have headers though, never swapped plugs with manifolds so I could be wrong. 
I just pulled back the metal wire protector sliped in the wire and re bent it back towards the block, it was pretty easy that way. for #8 plug you should not have to remove the starter just disconect the battery so you dont arc it with your wrench. Best way is from the bottom with a wrench on the end of a spark plug socket.
Not with stock manifolds.
I didn't even try to route it back through that little channel. I looped #7 around the manifold (the part that goes to the y-pipe), and zip-tied it to the metal brake line shielding on the wheel well. My MSD wire had plenty of length to make it, I'm not sure about other brands.
For #8 I got it from the top, but it's not fun.
I didn't even try to route it back through that little channel. I looped #7 around the manifold (the part that goes to the y-pipe), and zip-tied it to the metal brake line shielding on the wheel well. My MSD wire had plenty of length to make it, I'm not sure about other brands.
For #8 I got it from the top, but it's not fun.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 159
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From: Ocala,FL
Yea I can Touch #8 just not good enough to get it out.. Big arms and Hands.. Im going to have a friend come over to see if he can get it.. As for the Channel, so there is a bolt that holds it in.. any idea where its located and how many.. i tried to pry it with my fingertips but couldnt get it and there wasnt enough room to get a screw driver in there.. its only tight in some places.. to tight to push it it so a little room would be great... i dont suppose any one has a pic that side of the motor where you can see the channel.. if not, Spartan ill try your idea i have the 8.5 jegs wires.. there somewhat lengthy so it may work.. i had considered that to start when it wasnt going in right last night.
Thanks Again!!
Thanks Again!!
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TECH Enthusiast
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From: Clearwater
might just want to give up on putting the 8.5mm wires in those channels along the block they are just too big and it will be hard for them to stay in place. i dont know anyone locally who did it without tearing up the wires or having them fall out randomly and get burned up so we ended up just having to zip tie them out of the way.
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 159
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From: Ocala,FL
YEa i noticed it was a **** Getting them in the stock channels around the PS pump.. I fear they may come out so i ziptied them together and to the stock channel piece so fingers crossed there.. i also had to make a "floating" hanger to float the wires on the Passenger Side between the EGR pipe and the Maifold.. I think i will try to go around the manifold on the Drivers side for #7 if i cant get it in the channel
Timely subject... I'm getting ready to swap wires and add some 6" boot protectors (Design Engineering Inc, http://www.designengineering.com/pro...sp?m=sp&pid=22) I can't decide whether to stick with the OE 7mm wires to avoid the hassle of routing near the AC & PS bracket(s) and fall-outs that most of you guys have seen with 8.5mm from MSD. Anybody try or have better luck with Accel 8.0mm wires as far as fitting in the wire guides from the opti along the block? (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ACC-9037/) I've heard mixed opinions about going past the OE 7mm unless you're running nitrous, a blower, etc, but I have an upgraded coil (Accel 140011 (48,000V; primary resistance 0.33Ω, secondary resistance 8.8kΩ) in addition to a host of other upper plumbing and fuel mods that makes 377RWHP (or did on the dyno with 15 year old OE 7mm before I burned a wire on my Pacesetter 72C2235 headers... full list of mods available if it helps). Experience you guys have had?
Thanks,
Rob
Thanks,
Rob
might just want to give up on putting the 8.5mm wires in those channels along the block they are just too big and it will be hard for them to stay in place. i dont know anyone locally who did it without tearing up the wires or having them fall out randomly and get burned up so we ended up just having to zip tie them out of the way.
I used MSD 8.5mm and they fit in all the channels. Only thing I had to modify was that piece that wraps around the bracket behind the ps pump. It has separate channels for each of the 4 wires. I shaved out the dividers between those channels and it made the wires fit in there side by side pretty snugly...no zip ties. Other than that, everything fit in the same places the originals did, just tighter. Been in there for 8 months now with no problems.
But yeah, if you got big meaty arms and hands, this already tough job becomes near impossible.
But yeah, if you got big meaty arms and hands, this already tough job becomes near impossible.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 159
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From: Ocala,FL
Ok i replaced and rerouted #7 went down the brake line and around the manifold ziptied it up and in place looks good with plenty of clearence.. but i still feel a little hesitation sometimes when WOT and when in OD low rpms with a load on it i feel some vibes.. im thinking maybe the wires going around the PS pump are touching something or are to close to each other coming out or going into the channels.. gonna pull the Alternator and check.. i didnt make the channels bigger just pushed them in and ziptied so they would stay.. i dont think there going anywhere but i will be able to tell today when i check for burn marks or arcing off each other..
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 159
Likes: 0
From: Ocala,FL
OK well after trying and trying to get it in the channel i just gave up and went around it.. much easier i zip tied it to my Brake line and then to the abs connector at the end.. i think it may be too tight because if i go WOT my ABS inop comes on it may be pulling the connector so i gotta fix that.. other than that car is running Great!! thanks for the Ideas
