94BlueZ28

iTrader: (34)

Like stated above I need to know what to torque the Rear end yolk seal nut to. My chilton say's something like 5 ft/lbs to seal the bearings or what not and I know that cant be right. I replaced the seal because it had a leak and now I'm putting it back together and I have no clue what to torque the nut to. I know that **** spins at some high RPS so I don't want the bitch flying off be any chance at all so help me out guys! Thanks steve

porksoda

iTrader: (39)

If your talking about the pinion nut just tighten it as much as you can with a ratchet and socket. Just do not hit it over and over with an impact or anything crazy. That crush sleeve takes alot more torque than you can muster with a ratchet and your body on the ground. I did my pinion seal last year and I am 260lbs hanging on the ratchet and it is holding up fine with no noise.

Just as a tip, use blue loctite on it so it doesn't back off. The reason my pinion seal was leaking was the nut backed out and it killed the seal. I mean the nut was not even finger tight when I went to take it off.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

I'll copy a post I made to another member regarding the pinion seal/crush sleeve.

This is debatable. Some people say that you can't remove the pinion seal without affecting preload on the pinion bearings, unless you re-tighten the nut to EXACTLY where you removed it by marking the depth on the pinion threads. You also run the risk of crushing the crush sleeve even further.

If you choose to do it this way, I'm not responsible for any rear noise and/or destruction.

Remove the driveshaft and pinion nut (marking the EXACT location of the nut). Remove the yoke (remembering that position also). Pry out the seal with a screwdriver and reinstall the new one. You will lose some fluid when switching them out so you may want to lower the level in the differential (might be a good time to change it anyway if your seal is already leaking).

IMO, the correct way is to completely disassemble the rear, inspect, and reassemble. Just too many risks involved going the other way.

94BlueZ28

iTrader: (34)

I have the whole rear end out of the car as we speak! I opened her up and took a good look and everything looks great, I hosed it down with some break cleaner and installed a new TA girdle on it because the other cover seal was leaking and I had a small leak in the front seal. Should I but some type of sealant around that new yolk seal because I know the guys at Autozone and O'reilly said not to. Just curious before I install the new seal! I got the old one out and ready to put it all back together. Let me know guys thanks!

946spdz

iTrader: (19)

Mines leaking and im very confused in what to do, i dont want to risk messing up the rear... so how risky is marking the pinion threads only?

porksoda

iTrader: (39)

This is exactly how I did mine, and if you wanna get specific I didn't even mark the nut or anything because my pinion nut had backed out so much I took it off with my fingers!!! Yea not good! Also I wouldn't worry so much about the crush sleeve because it takes alot of torque to crush it anymore than it already is. I mean I am 250lbs and I was literally hanging on the ratchet when I tightened it back up and I have no problems.

1.Drain your gear oil out because it will leak when you pull the pinion seal
2.Get the rear of the car as high as you can to prevent tranny fluid from dripping out when you pull the driveshaft. I put the jackstands on the frame and let the rear hang just because it is easier to get at the seal this way.(You could leave the DS in the tranny but it is just in the way IMO)
3.Use an 11mm socket to take off bolts on rear of driveshaft.
4.Drop rear of driveshaft down and pull it out towards the back. (Thats the only way I could get mine out because the 3' Magnaflow was in the way up by the transmission)
5.Mark the nut and yoke with a punch or even paint so you know where it was tightened to. Also mark the orientation of the yoke so you can line everything up when you put it back together.
6.Use 1.25" socket to take off pinion nut.
7.Pull yoke off pinion.
8.Use seal puller to pop out old seal. I tried prying mine out with a screwdriver for 30min and didn't succeed. Seal puller popped it out in 2sec.
9.Clean EVERYTHING as good as you can! I used brake cleaner sprayed on a rag and wiped everything I could...housing for seal, pinion, nut, washer.
10.Here I used Permatex #2 non hardening sealant and smeared it around the seal where it met the housing.
11.Lube rubber on new seal with gear oil and tap it in as evenly as you can with a hammer and piece of wood. Or heck if you have something the same diameter as the seal and that would keep it even too as long as it goes in straight and even.
12.Here I also smeared Permatex on the splines on the pinion and pressed the yoke on with my hands.
13.With the yoke on I also put sealant on the washer and blue loctite on the nut and tightened everything up. MAKE SURE YOU LINE UP YOUR MARKS, possibly a hair tighter!!!
14.Refill with gear oil and posi additive and throw driveshaft back on and thats it, your done! You might possibly want to let it sit a few hours for the sealant to cure.

94BlueZ28

iTrader: (34)

Still have yet to get a torque spec guys! Tightening it up, that's not a good idea in my mind. I've tried to tighten things before and either it will loosen in time or I shear bolts and nuts off of things, lol! I want to torque it or something to have correct and accurate spec of some sort. Some one else pipe in as well please. Again my rear end is completly out of the car, nothing in the way or holding me back, Thanks again

rkinney

There is not a torque spec on the nut. It's turning preload, the amount of torque it takes to rotate the pinion flange using a in/lb beam style torque wrench. You have pinion preload (the preload on just the pinion in place) and total turning preload which is with the pinon and carrier installed in the rearend. You could just take a measurement of the turning preload, I would do it with the wheels off. Then when you go back together, I would use a new crush sleeve, tighten your pinion nut until you reach your previous reading on your preload. The specs are 10-15 in/lb on used bearings and 15-30 in/lb with new pinion bearings. These specs are just for pinion preload. Total turning preload specs are 16-28 for used bearings and 32-55 with new bearings. Since you have the rearend out, I would remove the axles to get an accurate reading. Your reading will be higher than the specs given with the axles in place. I have replaced my seal years ago and it is leaking again. I am going to use a different flange from another rearend with a new seal. I am going back with a pinion spacer instead of a crush sleeve so the setup is a little different.

porksoda

iTrader: (39)

Lets not forget this requires a special type of torque wrench, not the regular click type.

mdacton

iTrader: (3)

you need to check rotating tq before yoou take it apart.

get a small needle type tq wrench that reads inch pounds. with the axles in it the carrier etc. I would shoot for around 35 or so inch pounds of rotating tq.

you put the tq wrench in it and turn it see where the needle is.

normally you check it before then add maybe 5 inch pounds.




use a breaker bar and a pipe if you need to. you have to sneak up on it, you go too far you need another crush sleeve. not enough preload will burn the bearings up, too much will burn them up, also our gear pattern depends on that preload

big hammer

you can easily just tighten it until you feel it bottom out-- it takes alot of additional torque to further crhsh the sleeve. i've done this hundreds of times.

tbag_skywalker

Since you didn't count how many rotations it took to take the pinion nut off, there's no way for you to put it back on exactly as it was before.

Not that big of a deal though, you'll just need to get a needle style torque wrench like mdacton said or better yet a dial wrench. This is because the torque spec is measured in rotational torque to ensure the pinion bearings are properly reloaded.

There's simply no direct conversion from normal torque to rotational torque because you're measuring two entirely different things.

So the specs you've got are what rkinney already said: 10-15 in/lb of rotational torque if youre reusing your crush sleeve and 15-30 in/lb of rotational torque if you popped in a new one.

spaz1

iTrader: (9)

I always mark the nut and end of the pinion with a nut before pulling the nut off. I use an impact gun. I install the nut back on with red locktight just to be sure. It is pretty tight, If you go too far you have to pull the whole diff apart to stick a new crush sleave, if you don't tighten it enough you run the risk of it coming loose. If this happens the pinion gear gets pulled into the crown gear and you are hooped.. Total destruction....
It is a good Idea to check rotational tq before and after just to be sure but I have done tons with just a felt pen and never an issue.

94BlueZ28

iTrader: (34)

Holy christ, I took a nut off and changed a seal. I didn't realize it was this big a pain in the ***. Yeah I damn near have to take it same wear to install a seal and install a nut because I do not have that style torque whrench! Well I guess it will be trial and error here. I'm just going to throw some red lock tite on it and hope for the best when I thighten the bitch back down. I'll have to look into this crush sleave thing becasue I didn't see or deal with any part of this when I pulled that seal out. It was a simple nut, washer and off then used a little bitty screw driver to work the seal out which was cake and that's it!

93BlackZ28

iTrader: (5)

Im going to have to do this soon. My seal is leaking like a ****, im just scared about something happening to the rear end afterwords.

tbag_skywalker

If all you did was take the pinion nut and washer off than you didnt mess with the crush sleeve. The crush sleeve sits between the 2 pinion bearings around the pinion gear shaft. If for some reason you decided to put a new one in you would have had to take the axles out, unbolt the carrier and ring gear and remove them-- then the pinion gear would come out giving you access to the crush sleeve.

But since you didn't mess with it, don't worry about it.

I would, however, not just impact the pinion nut back on because the odds of you actually guessing the proper tightness is slim to none! In fact, you won't even be able to get it in the ballpark by guessing and feel-- that is unless you work on differentials for a living.

I'd strongly advise you to go to sears and spend a few bucks on the right wrench for the job, because in this case you'll need it. I don't meant to sound like a dick- I'm just trying to tell you what you should do in this scenario because I've been there and made the wrong decision. Didn't take to long for my diff to get noisy and break pinion teeth.