LT1 CSR 901LT1 EWP Electric Water pump height ?
#1
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LT1 CSR 901LT1 EWP Electric Water pump height ?
I'm getting ready to buy a Electric Water pump.
I have very limited room ( about 2 1/2" ) .
On the CSR web site it says 2.75" Overall depth.
Do they mean the mesurement between the 2 red arrows ?
Thanks.
I have very limited room ( about 2 1/2" ) .
On the CSR web site it says 2.75" Overall depth.
Do they mean the mesurement between the 2 red arrows ?
Thanks.
#2
Is that distance you're measuring stock? I put a CSR pump on my T/A a few years ago and have the radiator set at the stock location. If I remember right I had to trim the guard around the fan just a little bit. Nothing major at all.
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I cant tell in the pic, As I am still half a sleep and have not had my coffee yet. But are you measuring the distance from the end to your stock water pump to the Radiator Shroud In that picture? If so, you might want to go measure again. A Friend of mine from TX has this EWP on his car. But its been a few years since I have looked under his hood. I am pretty sure it fit with no problems. Go measure from the block out to the shroud.
EDIT: Just seen its an Rx7. Man that might be cutting it close. What about picking up a slim fan and shroud?
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I just ordered one.
One more question tho.
I'm going to Electrical water pump because mine starts to leak and also I have a oil leak where the shaft goes thru the Timing cover.
The shaft sells for $160+ usd + new pump etc.Looks like a regular problem with the LT1's , even if you change the seal it still leaks ( worn shaft )
Can I remove that shaft and plug the timing cover
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Yeah you can plug it up, you'll probably want to remove the gear that drives the pump too. I just had a plug welded in the cover, but I've seen people that have done it with just jb weld and something to cover the hole also...
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My timing cover has casting number # 10214196 on it so I'll try to find a used one and have it welded so when I'm ready to do the swap I won't have any down time.
Anyone has a used timing cover with this casting number on it for sale ?
Anyone has a used timing cover with this casting number on it for sale ?
#16
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Here's the specs of my ride :
GM LT1 5.7 Litre.
JE SRP Forged Pistons (10.3:1 compression).
Manley Sportsman Forged Rods.
GM hotcam Kit (hotcam, LT4 springs, 1.6rr).
Aluminum heads.
Headman Headers to 2.5" Y into 3" N1 pipe to magnaflow muffler.
Holley 255lph fuel pump.
MSD Ignition.
No Cats.
Transmision T56.
Fidnanza #12 flywheel.
SPEC 3 clutch Carbon Kevlar solid disk.
Differentiel limited slip 4.10.
Suspension/Wheels
Tien HA Coilovers 16way adjustable with front/rear pillowballs
Racing Beat DTSS Elims
K2RD Rear Camber Adjuster
Front STB
17x8(f)225/45/17 FN01R-C 5Zigen
17x10(r) 275/40/17 FN01R-C 5Zigen
Car weight Full interior & full tank :
3064Lbs
Front 1565 Lbs
Rear 1499 Lbs
Dynoed @ 326 RWHP & 360 Ft-Lbs SAE.
#17
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I'm doing major clean up this winter.
Car should be under or close to 3000 LBS still with full interior but without A/C , Power Steering , spare , manual seal belt set up etc.
Car should be under or close to 3000 LBS still with full interior but without A/C , Power Steering , spare , manual seal belt set up etc.
#18
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....So 1 month after , I have received most of my parts to do the swap and I have started last Thursday March 4th.
I've decided to removed the radiator and fan assembly to give me more room.
Pump almost off.
Found my oil leak....Oil seal for the Water pump shaft was damage during installation . ( bought the car like that ) .
After I removed the OptiSpark while it was in my hand , I shaked it and heard something loose in it.
Look what I've found :
One screw to hold the rotor was loose inside the case and the other one was completely backed off , enough to let the rotor move around and break the little plastic pin to center it and the rotor itself was rubbing inside the cover.
This was a faillure that was waiting to happen in a very short time.
Glad I'm doing this swap and found out that.
I put the rotor back in , used some loctite and the little broken plastic pin isn't bad , I think it is to make sure you "time" the rotor correctly , without the pin I can install it 1/2 way off.
Removed the water pump and gear.
Stock timing cover bottom left.
Modified timing cover top left.
Stock water pump bottom right.
Modified waterpump with the electric CSR Pump top right.
It is a lot more work then I thought.
I had to removed all bolts from the oil pan to give me some room to remove the front cover.
I'm almost ready to put it back together , I'm waiting on some bolts for the timing cover and I have to order a new bolt for the hub.
I had hard time removing the hub.( wrong tools )
I've decided to removed the radiator and fan assembly to give me more room.
Pump almost off.
Found my oil leak....Oil seal for the Water pump shaft was damage during installation . ( bought the car like that ) .
After I removed the OptiSpark while it was in my hand , I shaked it and heard something loose in it.
Look what I've found :
One screw to hold the rotor was loose inside the case and the other one was completely backed off , enough to let the rotor move around and break the little plastic pin to center it and the rotor itself was rubbing inside the cover.
This was a faillure that was waiting to happen in a very short time.
Glad I'm doing this swap and found out that.
I put the rotor back in , used some loctite and the little broken plastic pin isn't bad , I think it is to make sure you "time" the rotor correctly , without the pin I can install it 1/2 way off.
Removed the water pump and gear.
Stock timing cover bottom left.
Modified timing cover top left.
Stock water pump bottom right.
Modified waterpump with the electric CSR Pump top right.
It is a lot more work then I thought.
I had to removed all bolts from the oil pan to give me some room to remove the front cover.
I'm almost ready to put it back together , I'm waiting on some bolts for the timing cover and I have to order a new bolt for the hub.
I had hard time removing the hub.( wrong tools )