oil pressure drops, starving the motor, restriciting plug
#41
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far from it...6 qrs normally will do the trick...but 7 is easy insurance for me...1.3 60's and front tires 18inches in the air ive got great pressure...i remember back when i had the same problem and used to run 5 qts and in my bolt on car(made 320/355) on drag radials 1st and half of second pressre would drop to 20 from 80ish(new motor i built) added another qt and i would peg the gauge at 5200 and up in 1st and all the midrange pressure was climbing...
this is with the pickup about 3/8 from the pan...my theory is that the crank might put some air in the oil...but the crank is 5 inches above the oil pickup tube and air travels upwards...so how is it going to get down and get sucked up? makes no sense...not to mention ive never spun a bearing since...ive built probably 15-20 stock bottom end lt's all shifting at 6800-7k
this is with the pickup about 3/8 from the pan...my theory is that the crank might put some air in the oil...but the crank is 5 inches above the oil pickup tube and air travels upwards...so how is it going to get down and get sucked up? makes no sense...not to mention ive never spun a bearing since...ive built probably 15-20 stock bottom end lt's all shifting at 6800-7k
#42
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far from it...6 qrs normally will do the trick...but 7 is easy insurance for me...1.3 60's and front tires 18inches in the air ive got great pressure...i remember back when i had the same problem and used to run 5 qts and in my bolt on car(made 320/355) on drag radials 1st and half of second pressre would drop to 20 from 80ish(new motor i built) added another qt and i would peg the gauge at 5200 and up in 1st and all the midrange pressure was climbing...
this is with the pickup about 3/8 from the pan...my theory is that the crank might put some air in the oil...but the crank is 5 inches above the oil pickup tube and air travels upwards...so how is it going to get down and get sucked up? makes no sense...not to mention ive never spun a bearing since...ive built probably 15-20 stock bottom end lt's all shifting at 6800-7k
this is with the pickup about 3/8 from the pan...my theory is that the crank might put some air in the oil...but the crank is 5 inches above the oil pickup tube and air travels upwards...so how is it going to get down and get sucked up? makes no sense...not to mention ive never spun a bearing since...ive built probably 15-20 stock bottom end lt's all shifting at 6800-7k
#43
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Did you get rid of that junk Fram filter yet? My buddy had one on his '68 Camaro with a 489 and was just going to run it for the break in. His oil pressure ended up dropping to around 20lbs when he was in the throttle and he had another Fram filter on the shelf so he stuck it on. Pressure was good for a little while then the same thing happened again. After scrapping the "run a Fram for the break in" idea he switched to the Wix Racing he normally runs and his oil pressure is back and he hasn't had a single issue.
#45
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Did you get rid of that junk Fram filter yet? My buddy had one on his '68 Camaro with a 489 and was just going to run it for the break in. His oil pressure ended up dropping to around 20lbs when he was in the throttle and he had another Fram filter on the shelf so he stuck it on. Pressure was good for a little while then the same thing happened again. After scrapping the "run a Fram for the break in" idea he switched to the Wix Racing he normally runs and his oil pressure is back and he hasn't had a single issue.
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I have 2 craftsman torque whrench's and they both are set at 22 ft lbs. Hell autozone told me that the thought that might be a little high for an alluminum caliper and then stated that the chilton's could have a miss print, I laughed an said doubt it, I need another caliper since they are lifetime warranty
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Well ****, My caliper issue is fixed and now I'm waiting on some new 45 degree 6an fittings to come in. If any one every runs stainless steel hose for tranny lines make sure you get 45 degree. My 90 degree ones damn near hit the side of the tranny case and is making everything a pain in the ***. I would not be able to run both the top and bottom line this route. Another story I guess. After I get this tranny line thing taken care of the oil pan is coming off to take a peak!
#51
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IMO it'd be better to find out why your pump is cavitating. Putting a larger capacity pan may not fix the problem especially if it is a windage issue. The 242t pan has been known to cause windage issues running over 5.5 quarts so not sure that would fix your problem either.
Are you running a high volume pump?
Are you running a high volume pump?
#53
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I suspect the pump's sucking air. Time to stop guessing and drop the pan to have a look-see.
If nothing's apparent, I'd first check pick-up to be sure it's solidly attached. Then the torque of the pump to block. If good, I'd remove the oil pump and check the torque on the cover bolts. I'd check the casting for any sign of a crack.
If good I'd remove the cover and check it for flatness. Then I'd check the gear clearances and look for any sign of damage to the gear(s) or pump body.
If I decided to replace the pump, I'd go with a Moroso Blue Printed pump.
Jake
If nothing's apparent, I'd first check pick-up to be sure it's solidly attached. Then the torque of the pump to block. If good, I'd remove the oil pump and check the torque on the cover bolts. I'd check the casting for any sign of a crack.
If good I'd remove the cover and check it for flatness. Then I'd check the gear clearances and look for any sign of damage to the gear(s) or pump body.
If I decided to replace the pump, I'd go with a Moroso Blue Printed pump.
Jake
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I suspect the pump's sucking air. Time to stop guessing and drop the pan to have a look-see.
If nothing's apparent, I'd first check pick-up to be sure it's solidly attached. Then the torque of the pump to block. If good, I'd remove the oil pump and check the torque on the cover bolts. I'd check the casting for any sign of a crack.
If good I'd remove the cover and check it for flatness. Then I'd check the gear clearances and look for any sign of damage to the gear(s) or pump body.
If I decided to replace the pump, I'd go with a Moroso Blue Printed pump.
Jake
If nothing's apparent, I'd first check pick-up to be sure it's solidly attached. Then the torque of the pump to block. If good, I'd remove the oil pump and check the torque on the cover bolts. I'd check the casting for any sign of a crack.
If good I'd remove the cover and check it for flatness. Then I'd check the gear clearances and look for any sign of damage to the gear(s) or pump body.
If I decided to replace the pump, I'd go with a Moroso Blue Printed pump.
Jake