Need a little Help with my re-build.
03-30-2010, 01:35 PM
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Need a little Help with my re-build. Ok, My CC503 has arived, Canton Valve Covers are here, Scorpion 1.6 Rockers, 32LBS injectors are on the shelf waiting for two more Items,
Lifters and pushrods.
What do I get. I dont want to go crazy. Would stock lifters and pushrods do the trick or should I step up a notch or two. What leingth pushrods do I get and where is the best place to get them.
Thanks in advnace for any help.
Lifters and pushrods.
What do I get. I dont want to go crazy. Would stock lifters and pushrods do the trick or should I step up a notch or two. What leingth pushrods do I get and where is the best place to get them.
Thanks in advnace for any help.
03-30-2010, 01:49 PM
#2
did you deck the block or mill the heads? if not stock pushrods will be fine, if you are running an NSA rocker you will want to make sure you step up to a decent hardened one. 7.200" is the stock length
as for lifters stock is more than fine, stock replacement is the LS7 lifter. if your lifters don't have a crap ton of miles on them and all pump up alright I'd reuse em.
as for lifters stock is more than fine, stock replacement is the LS7 lifter. if your lifters don't have a crap ton of miles on them and all pump up alright I'd reuse em.
03-30-2010, 01:54 PM
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no decking on block, so i am good with 7.2 length. but there is 160K on the engine, so Ill go with new set of lifters. Where is the best place to get the LS7 lifters and pushrods...
03-30-2010, 01:59 PM
#5
I reused my stock gear set but def change the chain. I just went with an OEM replacement
for lifters here you go http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-12499225/
if you want to replace the pushrods here's what I went with when I did my cam swap http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-7808-16/
for lifters here you go http://www.summitracing.com/parts/NAL-12499225/
if you want to replace the pushrods here's what I went with when I did my cam swap http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-7808-16/
03-30-2010, 04:41 PM
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I always recommend checking for the correct pushrod length; "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" way of thinking. In fact, that's exactly what I did as recently as when I changed heads, cam and valve train on my son's 96 LT1 Vette several months ago.
If you're running NON self aligning rockers, then you'll definitely need guide plates and HARDENED pushrods. If they're NSA, you made the "right" move too.
Read up on adjusting lifter preload since that's an area that very often causes guys problems. Read, re-read and re-re-read the preload directions until you're confident you fully understand what needs to be done and how to do it. There are several different ways of doing it; one is just less error prone than the others. I posted a STICKY on how I do mine on LS1LT1.com on the Engine Tech board.
Carefully read any directions that may come with the new lifters. There may be a warning that the grease in the roller end has to be removed and replaced with engine oil before installing them. Failure to do that could damage the roller bearings, destroying the lifter(s).
If there's no directions accompanying the new lifters, I wash away any grease that may be in the roller, then soak the lifters in engine oil. I roll the roller end while it's submerged in the oil so there's no chance of a dry start up.
CompCams says NOT to prime/pump up the lifters, but soaking them in engine oil is okay. Clean and Soak the rocker arms too. You don't want any heavy grease inhibiting full oil flow when the engine is first started.
Be sure to check for any valve train clearance issue before turning the key. Lots of posts on clearance issues have surfaced recently. Rocker to retainer - Retainer to valve stem seal - Spring to valve stem seal are the three most common being reported.
Hope this helps.
Jake
If you're running NON self aligning rockers, then you'll definitely need guide plates and HARDENED pushrods. If they're NSA, you made the "right" move too.
Read up on adjusting lifter preload since that's an area that very often causes guys problems. Read, re-read and re-re-read the preload directions until you're confident you fully understand what needs to be done and how to do it. There are several different ways of doing it; one is just less error prone than the others. I posted a STICKY on how I do mine on LS1LT1.com on the Engine Tech board.
Carefully read any directions that may come with the new lifters. There may be a warning that the grease in the roller end has to be removed and replaced with engine oil before installing them. Failure to do that could damage the roller bearings, destroying the lifter(s).
If there's no directions accompanying the new lifters, I wash away any grease that may be in the roller, then soak the lifters in engine oil. I roll the roller end while it's submerged in the oil so there's no chance of a dry start up.
CompCams says NOT to prime/pump up the lifters, but soaking them in engine oil is okay. Clean and Soak the rocker arms too. You don't want any heavy grease inhibiting full oil flow when the engine is first started.
Be sure to check for any valve train clearance issue before turning the key. Lots of posts on clearance issues have surfaced recently. Rocker to retainer - Retainer to valve stem seal - Spring to valve stem seal are the three most common being reported.
Hope this helps.
Jake
03-30-2010, 07:26 PM
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always check for proper push rod length! just get the checking tool now then buy the right length PR's once you figure it out. I got some new comp R lifters off here for cheap but LS7 lifters(which DEF requires a dif length PR) come from GM and I got my chrome moly PR's from AI w/ the cam but thers probably cheaper places, byunspeed always seems to have good prices.
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03-30-2010, 11:05 PM
#8
The OLD batch of LS7 lifters (first production several years ago) used a deeper cup. The new LS7s cup is OEM depth and doesn't require a pushrod length change. Not all LS7s require longer pushrods. If you're just doing a cam swap and leaving the heads alone, stock 7.20" length is fine.
However, you don't know whether the LS7s you order are the old or new batch, depending on how long they've sat on the vendor's shelf. Best to measure, although 90% of the time you'll need 7.20" (on an otherwise stock application).
You'll want to replace the chain AND the sprockets. With that mileage, there is certainly some wear on the sprockets.
However, you don't know whether the LS7s you order are the old or new batch, depending on how long they've sat on the vendor's shelf. Best to measure, although 90% of the time you'll need 7.20" (on an otherwise stock application).
You'll want to replace the chain AND the sprockets. With that mileage, there is certainly some wear on the sprockets.
04-06-2010, 11:11 AM
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I always recommend checking for the correct pushrod length; "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" way of thinking. In fact, that's exactly what I did as recently as when I changed heads, cam and valve train on my son's 96 LT1 Vette several months ago.
If you're running NON self aligning rockers, then you'll definitely need guide plates and HARDENED pushrods. If they're NSA, you made the "right" move too.
Read up on adjusting lifter preload since that's an area that very often causes guys problems. Read, re-read and re-re-read the preload directions until you're confident you fully understand what needs to be done and how to do it. There are several different ways of doing it; one is just less error prone than the others. I posted a STICKY on how I do mine on LS1LT1.com on the Engine Tech board.
Carefully read any directions that may come with the new lifters. There may be a warning that the grease in the roller end has to be removed and replaced with engine oil before installing them. Failure to do that could damage the roller bearings, destroying the lifter(s).
If there's no directions accompanying the new lifters, I wash away any grease that may be in the roller, then soak the lifters in engine oil. I roll the roller end while it's submerged in the oil so there's no chance of a dry start up.
CompCams says NOT to prime/pump up the lifters, but soaking them in engine oil is okay. Clean and Soak the rocker arms too. You don't want any heavy grease inhibiting full oil flow when the engine is first started.
Be sure to check for any valve train clearance issue before turning the key. Lots of posts on clearance issues have surfaced recently. Rocker to retainer - Retainer to valve stem seal - Spring to valve stem seal are the three most common being reported.
Hope this helps.
Jake
If you're running NON self aligning rockers, then you'll definitely need guide plates and HARDENED pushrods. If they're NSA, you made the "right" move too.
Read up on adjusting lifter preload since that's an area that very often causes guys problems. Read, re-read and re-re-read the preload directions until you're confident you fully understand what needs to be done and how to do it. There are several different ways of doing it; one is just less error prone than the others. I posted a STICKY on how I do mine on LS1LT1.com on the Engine Tech board.
Carefully read any directions that may come with the new lifters. There may be a warning that the grease in the roller end has to be removed and replaced with engine oil before installing them. Failure to do that could damage the roller bearings, destroying the lifter(s).
If there's no directions accompanying the new lifters, I wash away any grease that may be in the roller, then soak the lifters in engine oil. I roll the roller end while it's submerged in the oil so there's no chance of a dry start up.
CompCams says NOT to prime/pump up the lifters, but soaking them in engine oil is okay. Clean and Soak the rocker arms too. You don't want any heavy grease inhibiting full oil flow when the engine is first started.
Be sure to check for any valve train clearance issue before turning the key. Lots of posts on clearance issues have surfaced recently. Rocker to retainer - Retainer to valve stem seal - Spring to valve stem seal are the three most common being reported.
Hope this helps.
Jake
04-06-2010, 11:27 AM
#10
Get some LS7 lifters. I ordered mine from scoggin dickey, paid 100 bucks for em new 3 years ago. Are you running SA or NSA rockers? I am running a double roller, well worth the money, just had to get a 95 timing cover for it and clearance it a bit.
