BuckeyeZ28

Im in the process of shopping for a new 383 to replace my aging stock lt1. Im pretty sure Im going to go with this motor.. [URL="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1992-Camaro-Vette-Impala-SS-LT1-383-stroker-motor_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem45f1bee308QQitemZ 300408562440QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAc cessories"] Ive talked to the machinist who makes it, and he recomends a cc503 cam and the option he gives to port the heads. Im only looking to spend 2500-3000 on the motor, is this my best bet? Do I need a bigger converter for the cam? Its a 1993 z28... 3.73s. Also will the stock 24# fuel injectors work or should i upgrade? Any help is appreciated!

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

You won't be able to have a 383 done right for $3000. That motor uses cheap cast parts that have numerous instances of recent failure, crappy valve springs, an undersized cam (yes, I'm talking about the 503), a severe reduction in overall compression, and stock 1.5 rockers? You will undoubtedly be disappointed.

All this assuming you've got all the bolt-ons and supporting modifications to boot.

Avoid at all costs.

BuckeyeZ28

I really wondered because it seemed like a real steal... so if im gonna drop that amount of cash into the motor what do you recomend i do? I have the supporting bolt on mods (CAI, headers, cat back, posi 3.73, MSD ignition) but the motor has 132k on it and its just starting to get some lifter tick. Take it out and go the heads and cam route with new valvetrain? What about the bottom end, is it going to be okay with a h/c swap?

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

If you've got "lifter tick" and you know for sure it's a lifter, why would you feel compelled to rebuild the bottom end? Truth is, 132k miles is nothing for these motors if cared for. There are guys on here doing heads/cam swaps with more miles than that, and they run the **** out of them. Here are your two possible scenarios:

1.) Rebuild. I'd reuse the stock crank, turn/polish it,clean up the block, bore/hone .030", install a nice forged rod and a forged flat-top piston. At this juncture, you could install the 503 on stock heads and get a nice performance boost and have a strong bottom end for any headwork you plan in the future. This can be done for around $3k if you plan accordingly.

Pros - bullet-proof bottom end for future headwork/modification.
Cons - only about 350-360whp.

2.) Keep the bottom end stock and do a heads/cam package. This would involve inspecting your bottom end by running a compression/leakdown test and confirm adequate oil pressure. If these tests turn out okay, install a heads/cam package from AI or LE. For $3000, you should be able to acquire everything you need. The added RPMs will put some additional strain on the bottom end, but keep the revs under 6400 and you should be alright.

Pros - Upwards of 400+whp are easily attainable, providing a proper tune.
Cons - Uncertainty of rotating assembly.

There you go. If I think of anything else later, I'll add it.

chavez885

iTrader: (12)

I'm bored at work, I'll bite. These threads come up pretty often. Sounds like a bad combination of parts buckeye. There are MUCH better options to go fast, power comes from the heads/cam not the shortblock. You can spend 3 grand easily on the shortblock alone.

What are your goals exactly, budget? Whats wrong with your shortblock now? Mileage? What mods do you have right now?

To answer your questions:
Yes you will want a converter to match the cam
No stock injectors will not work.

If I had 3000 to spend and no more, I'd plan my heads/cam/shortblock all together, it gets expensive fast. Either http://www.elliottsportworks.com/lt1.html or www.advancedinduction.com for the heads/cam. You're looking at 1600-2000$ for 400rwhp.

You can get the stock shortblock rebuilt if your cylinder walls are good. Get it re-ringed, arp rod bolts, assembled/balanced. Talk to your machine shop for pricing, probably 600-800 bucks (guestimate) If you can afford it you could step up to a 355. <--Link for a build

Pricing guesstimates -
Heads/Cam - 2000
Stock Shortblock - 700
Valve train kit - 700 (rockers,pushrods,guideplates,studs,lifters)
Injectors - 300
Motor Gaskets - 150
.28 Head gaskets - 80
Tune - 150 (mail order) - 500 (dynotune)

**edit** Joe is right, you could slap the heads/cam on your stock shortblock after doing a compression test. Install a new oil pump with the "white" oil spring and it should be fine. Just keep the revs down as said.

BuckeyeZ28

No i was just wondering if the bottom end would need to be replaced w/ the miles it has, but if you say no then i guess not. I will def. look into these and see which one fits me.. does the cc503 need a stall?

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

IMO, yes. Many will argue that it doesn't and you can live without a higher stall, but if you really want to wake up the car a higher stall is a must.

kalebm22

iTrader: (2)

i will be the first to say i was dumb for not putting a stall with this cam right off the bat. it woke the car up and gave me more benifiits than the cam even thought about. with that being said, this cam still works well with the factory stall. but is nowhere near its full potential.

Puck

iTrader: (17)

IMO even a stock auto needs a good stall. It helps with so many things, and when talking single mods the bang for buck from a stall is only rivaled by nitrous.

jaycenk

iTrader: (1)

A 355 build can yeild as much power as that 383 your looking at. Also I got stuck with cast eagle stuff after my engine builder and Father who asked to help me with my engine due to my heavy work load, ordered the cast crank eagle kit and assembled everything. So when I showed up to assymble it...lol here I am looking at exactly what I did not want. There is no room to grow at all. You can do a good set of reworked heads and custom cam and your done. You will be pushing the parts close to the max. It may never break BUT, you can't shoot it with NOS and no bost no mater how small. Save the money and do a 355 if you don't want to spend much and spend the money on a good set of heads and custom cam. You could run 400hp to the rear wheels.